[Joelan]

Hello,
A few years ago my Father, Rudy Diephuis used an epoxy to fill his home made intake manifolds. I don't know if this would apply to your needs. He actually went to a prothsetic company that made artificial limbs. Since he had lost his left leg below the knee back in 1979 in his race car, he was familiar with the material. Unfortunately he is not with us anymore so I cannot ask him exactly what the material was. However, if you can find a company that mfg's prothsetics in your area, maybe they can tell you what they used back in the late 90's. I'll try to see if the company here is still in existence. Good Luck!

[BVR421]

As far as using common epoxys inside intakes and the issue of them coming apart, a couple years ago I saw the inside of an Olds dualquad intake that JoeMondello had built from an Offy as an R&D unit. I swear it was more epoxy than aluminum both inside and out. Practically every square inch of runners and plenum had been reshaped several times for flowbench and track testing. That manifold was on a VERY expensive motor for his VO Twister and if he didnt trust that epoxy to stay put it would not have been used. BTW, that was an alky motor with twin toilets.

[gillyiowa]

I've been watching this topic close because I'm going to try to rework my performer rpm. When we raced go karts, we used jb weld and titanuim putty for reshaping intake ports. Using alchohol after a few races it would soften and end up going into the engine. I think this was a combination of heat,vibration and the alky. After a few years of fighting this, we ended up using lead. It was easier to work with and stayed put. Has anyone tried this method? we used to use modeling clay to make forms for the lead. poured it in, then shaped when cool.

[10secbird]

I used JB weld on my intake and ran it for a couple of years on the street and at the track without any problem. I had the intake off fairly frequently and was able to keep an eye on it. I was surprised at how well the stuff adhered. I used it for port-matching purposes on the roof and directing air past the pushrod bulges on ports 1,7,2,8 which actually gives you a narrower port opening on these ports. You can read about this modification in Pete McCarthy's 'Pontiac Racers Handbook'. They did it on a Nash but I figured it would work on an old Torker. As you can see in the larger of the two photos, the epoxy is just starting to lift...but remember this is after driving and racing it regularly for 2 years and occasionaly for a couple of more years. If I use the manifold again I will knock out the old stuff and put some new stuff in but for now plans are to run a 1st design Wenzler

[10secbird]

The smaller photo didnt make it so here it is.

[Skip Fix]

I've always heard from the head porter ANY kind will let go at some point.