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Steve C. · 05-19-2003, 06:24 PM

My 455 crank has the number 496453 cast into it.

Of interest, I'll go by the machine shop and weigh the SCAT 4.210 crank.

Bungee · 05-19-2003, 06:55 PM

I bought a 455 Eagle crank, forged pistons (TRW/SpeedPro), moly rings and Clevite bearings from GoFastStuff.

Was very happy with the time and effort Frank Ezra spent answering my questions and helping me select the right components before actually buying them.

No problem whatsoever with any of the parts ... including the crank.

Delivery was fast, and Frank rounded off the total to $700 including shipping, which I thought was reasonable.

Ken K · 05-19-2003, 07:13 PM

Steve, the crank you have is one of the non N cranks. I am going to have the 103 N crank weighed somewhere to make sure it's not a fluke. The 400 cranks that weigh less than the N 400 cranks don't have as wide counter weights on them.

GTOlev · 05-19-2003, 07:41 PM

I would rather use a stock 455 crank that weighs 7 pounds less than a new crank that has to be machined and balanced. Jeez how much does that cost? You could buy a used 455 for the price of one of those new cranks.

GTOlev · 05-19-2003, 10:02 PM

I find this subject very interesting because I have a stock 455 crank and it weighs 66 lbs.

Ken K · 05-20-2003, 07:22 AM

I emailed 3 different places selling 455 crankshafts on Ebay and asked what the exact weight of the crankshafts was. GoFastStuff says the Eagle crank weighs aproximately 70 lbs. Someone selling a 103 N crank says he thinks his weighs 75 Lbs and says he knows it's over 70 lbs. I will post what the person selling a CAT crank says the crank weighs when I recieve the info.

Steve C. · 05-20-2003, 08:02 AM

Just weighed another stock 455 crank that's unmodified and has the number 9799103 from a '70 block and it weighs 72.5 pounds.
Also I called a friend that has two "103" 455 cranks on hand he has them both marked as 69 pounds.

[This message was edited by Steve Coombes on May 20, 2003 at 11:27 AM.]

GoatRider · 05-20-2003, 08:16 AM

For ANY crank (New Eagle, NOS Pontiac, used, 455 grond down, etc) you ARE going to have to have it balanced as an assembly to match your new rods and pistons right?

Unless you are using the same crank/rods/piston combo kept together as a set, you are going to need to adjust the counterweights to match the new pistons/rods as a spinning assembly...

Correct????

"Nothing Beats an Ol' Goat..."

Ken K · 05-20-2003, 08:31 AM

You should be able to bore an engine out and use a set of oversize pistons that are the same type as was used by the factory without getting the engine rebalanced. It was a practice to just replace one or two pistons at a time if you had a few bad cylinders.

Steve C. · 05-20-2003, 01:49 PM

While at the machine shop I weighed a SCAT 3-inch main 4.210" stroke crank and it weighed 69.5 pounds.

Ken K · 05-20-2003, 02:22 PM

As soon as I can find a scale that is accurate and won't cost me any money, I will weigh a few crankshafts. I only have one 455 crank but I have a good selection 400 cranks from various years, both N and non N cranks.

GTOlev · 05-20-2003, 06:06 PM

Just called 10 friends had them all weigh their cranks some almost weighed 2 lbs. Just a little off track humor. Point is you buy a complete assembly for what ever price unbalanced, turns out the crank needs turning along with all other issue we've read about ( they can't all be making up these issues ) Who says I have to balance my motor, so why would I have to balance and Eagle or Cat crank. All Pontiac GTO motors ran real well from the factory, they were never balanced. Your assuming race motor here, how about the 100's doing just a rebuild, should they have to balance, No.

brian damian · 05-21-2003, 07:00 AM

Why would you NOT balance your motor? thats just
basics of rebuilding motors. just extra insurance
for longevity and keeps everthing smooth,worth the extra few bucks.

SCOTT ESTERLE · 05-21-2003, 07:00 AM

Its your money. If you don't want to balance it you don't have to. Its your money & your bearings. I tried this once about 300 passes later i had a cracked block & a crank in 3 pieces. I was using one of those stock Pontiac cranks. I beleive in balancing now. I have a nice big dent in the frame to prove this when the crank slammed the pulley into the frame.

Seventy3TA · 05-21-2003, 08:29 AM

But weren't factory cranks made to be in balance when used with other factory parts made for that particular motor? When I added lighter rods and pistons to my factory balanced crank, guess what, it was no longer in balance. Point is, I believe the factory produced cranks were made to be used with an expected bob weight of the factory parts hanging off of it (within limits). Crank manufacutures have no way of knowing what bobweights are going to be used at the end. Even if they did produce a crank with "factory" balance, do the aftermarket "replacement" pistons have the exact weight as the original? My dad has a callies magnum x-s crank for his BBC and it still needed to be balanced. It wasn't cheap, American made, was it not in balance because of poor quality control?

[This message was edited by Seventy3TA on May 21, 2003 at 11:40 AM.]

GTOlev · 05-21-2003, 12:32 PM

I paid $75.00 for a used crank, that weighs far less then any after market crank. Have any of you read Smokey Y book about balancing, if you haven't you need to. If I decided to balance the assembly, still would be far less then $300.00 for a crank that needs straightening, and cutting. You can't assume this is a race motor that needs to be balanced.

SCOTT ESTERLE · 05-21-2003, 01:14 PM

I paid $150.00 to have the entire assembly balanced. I didn't have to grind or straighten anything.

Ken K · 05-21-2003, 01:23 PM

Maybe they sent you the best crank they had since you work for Summit and you would be doing some free advertising for them.

SCOTT ESTERLE · 05-21-2003, 07:46 PM

Maybe.

suzyq · 05-21-2003, 09:01 PM

GTO MAN, were is the gross weight diff in the cranks mine was 1.5 lbs heavier then the stock 455 crank and was spot on in size. I know that I did not have to use a new crank and rods. I could of used the factory parts, BUT I was quoted 270.00 for the crank work and the new crank was 250.00 so I saved money there, the rods were 350,00 for the 6.8 rods, and the pistons were the only high doller item 600.00 for the pistons pins locks and a 30cc dish for use with 72cc heads.
As far as ballancing the assy had to be ballanced anyway so that is a wash. NOw I just bought two 400's complete for 150.00 and wish I could have waited to use a 400 block instead of the 455 block.

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