[mchell]

ok........check ou the next two pics, note the keyway positions on cam and crank at TDC on #1 as it relates to the dot position. This should clear it up

[mchell]

Look closely at the lower pic......the crank dot is at 12 oclock on the tooth. The cam dot is at 12 oclock on the sprocket. The cylinder is at TDC on #1. The crank and cam keyways should be orientated as such.

good luck

[PONTIAC DUDE]

300 posts later. LOL.
Looks like you might be a tooth off from the pic. Which is roughly 18 degrees or so if memory serves me correctly. The bottom dot lines up with the cam dot (which is in between) the cam teeth. Why do you want to make it sooooooooooo hard.

THE K.I.S.S. METHOD

Use 12 o'clock on the bottom gear............. 6 o'clock on the top and set your distibutor in on #6. Before you button it up slide the cover on and part of the balancer. The timing marks should line up to make sure you have the crank positioned at #1 and #6, which is opposite.
Using this method. If it doen't fire or have compression You have other issues

It ain't Rocket Science.

[Tom from NJ]

The keyway on the crank will always be in line with the number one connecting rod center line when the engine is at TDC.

Tom S

[Tom from NJ]

Lay a piece of cardboard on the bench and draw a straight line. Use this to position the chain around the gears with the marks in the proper location. You should be able to line up your line that you drew with the center holes in the gears and the marks. Then put a paint mark on each gear and the chain. When you install the timing set on the engine realign the paint mark on the lower gear and the top gear should have the paint mark in right spot. It is easier to do the alignment on the bench and the paint marks make for a good second check. If you are a tooth out it will be obvious.

I had to do this once on a car where the visibility was not good enough to be sure the marks were on.

Tom

[elohssa]

Thanks for all the replies/advice guy's I got it all back together yesterday and It's running fine The edelbrock timing set with the H's triangle and dots threw me off and I had the dots lined up but the crank in the wrong keyway major brain fade that day I guess.

[BVR421]

you are not the first or last to have trouble comprehending the 3 keyway sprockets

An earlier question about keeping your stock studs and just buying chevy locknuts or crane polylocks. Yes that will work fine. Dont try to use the stock nuts with anything but 20ftlb torque. As you mentioned if the base circle is close enough to stock the factory 20lb nuts will work. This is not a race motor, with a mild cam you dont need 7/16 ARP studs.