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  #21  
Old 10-03-2006, 04:00 PM
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Will the stock but milled 197's flow well enough for this motor to make real good street power. I think now I'm looking at the 455 block and crank, 197 H-O heads and H-O intake, 041 cam w/1.65 roller rockers and Rhoades lifters, with a Q-jet (if I can find a good one), Ram Air Restoration exhaust manifolds. I'll paint the engine original blue except for the aluminum intake and use a dual snorkel air cleaner. When you raise the hood it should look very stock and original. All this with a tight 10" Continental converter and 3:55 rear.

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  #22  
Old 10-03-2006, 11:04 PM
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Jimmy, sounds like a good combo. I just received my R.A.R.E HO manifolds, they're coated and look really nice.

Contact Cliff Ruggles for the Q-Jet, that's what he does.

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  #23  
Old 10-04-2006, 10:00 PM
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My 0.02 worth. My 1971 Trans Am still has its 455 HO motor with ported (by me) 197 heads. The heads have been milled to get 92cc chambers, which, with a zero deck block, gives me about 10 to 1 compression. I also run the factory aluminum intake, and the 7041263 HO carburetor. I run tri-y headers into a 2.5 inch full exhaust with "X" crossover. I initially ran a Comp Cams XE 284 cam with 1.5 roller rockers, and was generally pleased with it. Low end torque was lacking; however, it didn't really affect street driving much. Punch the throttle at 60 mph and pray the rear tires (255/60s) hold the road. After about one year I wiped a lobe on the cam and needed another overhaul. This time I'm using a Crower 041 cam and I'll tell you the engine makes noticeably more power (I don't shift over 5200 rpms). With the Comp cam, the car had to be launched at 3000 rpms or the engine would die (even with a 4-speed trans). Now, if I've got it over 2000 rpms, the tires are gonna scream!!!!!!!! That 041 cam woke up the 455 HO like nothin else! While I hated to spend the money on the second overhaul, I sure like the "old school" cam much more than I did the newer design. Granted, my T/A is not a race car, but now you can punch it from just off idle and spin the car whichever way you want, as the rear tires are not even going to gain any traction for some time. Am I satisfied now.............You Bet!!!

Alan

  #24  
Old 10-04-2006, 11:03 PM
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I would recommend the UD grind over the comp cams grind.

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Current best: 11.97@110 1.65-60' !!!

'74 ventura, (Fired july 14/06) '74 462 4-bolt (9.5-1), SCAT, Ross, T-II w/850DP (shaker455), TH350, Conti 10'' 3800, Supercomps, Magnaflow, 3'' Pypes, 3.73's, 28x13.5-15 ET streets.

1970 Beismeyer 17' flatbottom vdrive, 11.8:1 455P, ported heads, dual Qjet tunnel ram.
  #25  
Old 10-05-2006, 02:49 PM
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Which UD cam would that be?

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  #26  
Old 10-05-2006, 07:43 PM
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the combo you listed with the HO heads will rip on the street. i will also highly recomend having cliff ruggles do the carb to your engine specs. having the carb and ignition dialed in correctly makes the WORLD of difference as to how the motor performs on the street and strip. as far as i know, different cam manufacturers will grind the lobes of the cam differently, but still have the same overall duration and lift numbers. one grinder may have a steep ramp to the lobe that opens the valve faster and sooner and a different grinder not as fast. they can also move the lobe to change when the valves open and close in relation to where the piston is in it's stroke. this stuff is critical for a race motor but, not as noticeable on the street. UD has a good rep for grinding a cam for a pontiac motor and not just using a chevy style lobe for a different application.

  #27  
Old 10-05-2006, 10:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimmy daniel
Which UD cam would that be?
UD 288/296 (231/[email protected]) basically an updated version of the RAIV (also in my sig.).

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Current best: 11.97@110 1.65-60' !!!

'74 ventura, (Fired july 14/06) '74 462 4-bolt (9.5-1), SCAT, Ross, T-II w/850DP (shaker455), TH350, Conti 10'' 3800, Supercomps, Magnaflow, 3'' Pypes, 3.73's, 28x13.5-15 ET streets.

1970 Beismeyer 17' flatbottom vdrive, 11.8:1 455P, ported heads, dual Qjet tunnel ram.
  #28  
Old 10-10-2006, 12:51 PM
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Biltit, you didn't mention Rhoades lifters. How is your idle?

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  #29  
Old 10-10-2006, 12:52 PM
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TA fanatic, my engine will probably be very close to yours when I finish. Thanks to all you guys.

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  #30  
Old 10-10-2006, 02:23 PM
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no rhodes www.bulletcams.com for the U/D cam. Fill out the form and let the cam masters give advise. can't hurt.

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Last edited by Ron H; 10-10-2006 at 05:41 PM.
  #31  
Old 10-10-2006, 05:20 PM
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I just filled out the Bullet form. We'll see what they recommend.

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  #32  
Old 10-10-2006, 07:58 PM
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No rhoads, idle is nice, choppy and mean but still have 9-11'' vacuum. Runs my power brakes fine, idle is at 900rpm in park, ~700-800 in gear

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Derek B.
Current best: 11.97@110 1.65-60' !!!

'74 ventura, (Fired july 14/06) '74 462 4-bolt (9.5-1), SCAT, Ross, T-II w/850DP (shaker455), TH350, Conti 10'' 3800, Supercomps, Magnaflow, 3'' Pypes, 3.73's, 28x13.5-15 ET streets.

1970 Beismeyer 17' flatbottom vdrive, 11.8:1 455P, ported heads, dual Qjet tunnel ram.
  #33  
Old 10-10-2006, 09:35 PM
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I also forgot to mention that I'm not running the Rhoades lifters either. Mine are stock Crower lifters. The idle is nothing short of sweet, with plenty of vacuum and a pretty good rumpty rumpty lump. As I said before the street manners are great. Friends with 2nd gen T/As that have mostly stock engines with smooth idles tell me that they are always getting "challenged" at stop lights by the ricers. They are somewhat surprised when I tell them I have yet to be challenged. Its not that my T/A is all that fast (at least I haven't raced it at the track yet), but it sure as heck sounds like it is. As stated previously, the 60 to 100+ roll takes about 6 seconds. 6 seconds of pure joy!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Good luck with the engine, and be careful what oil you run in it after the break-in period.

Alan

  #34  
Old 10-10-2006, 10:08 PM
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I would go with a roller cam and port the heads. My car has 4 wheel power brakes and ideled @ 700 RPM in gear with ported cast heads and ran a 12.3 quarter ( I run a turbo 400 with a 3:73 gear). Call Jeff Kaufman he will line you out. I also would spend the money on a continental convertor (well worth it). I would also talk to Rocky Rotela for a distributer and Cliff Ruggles for a carb. You can have a good street car and some very respectable time slips as well. There are a lot of parts out there to do what you want. There are also a lot of knowlegable folks out there this is just some of the parts and people I have had good experiences with.

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Last edited by 455earlybird; 10-10-2006 at 10:14 PM.
  #35  
Old 10-11-2006, 08:05 AM
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12.3 with a roller cam? Biltit is running that with a U/D 288/296 hydraulic.

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  #36  
Old 10-11-2006, 10:35 AM
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How do I find Cliff Ruggles (q-jet) and Rocky Rotela (dist)?

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  #37  
Old 10-11-2006, 10:36 AM
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Also I just bought the 63 Tempest racecar that was on Ebay. The preachers car that was in the HPP shootout a last year.

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  #38  
Old 10-12-2006, 11:56 AM
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UD recommends:
276/286 H12 221/230 at .050 and .498/ .498 lift w/1.65s
LSA112
ICL 108
Thats slightly smaller than BilTits cam it looks like.

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1965 TriPower GTO, 1967 GTO, 1969 GTO, 1969 Judge, 1972 GTO, 1977 Smokey and the Bandit, 1989 TA ProStreet, 1968 Firebird NHRA 10.90 racecar, 1963 Tempest S/Gas
  #39  
Old 10-12-2006, 04:43 PM
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Jimmy, my schedule is pretty full at the present time. I'd suggest contacting Bob Davis (aka Sun Tuned) at [email protected]. He'll set you up right.

  #40  
Old 10-12-2006, 04:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimmy daniel
UD recommends:
276/286 H12 221/230 at .050 and .498/ .498 lift w/1.65s
LSA112
ICL 108
Thats slightly smaller than BilTits cam it looks like.
What did you tell them for vehicle weight and converter stall? Also did you say you have or are using power brakes?

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