[ry57pont]

Sorry i am a little confused too. Advance has a Neapco brute force without zerks for 14.94. is this the one i am looking for? Thanks - ryan

[Cliff R]

I didn't look at the packages, or install the joints, so I can't say for certain that they were Brute Force joints, or some imported "knock-off". They did fail miserably, causing considerable destruction and expense. This also occurred back around 2001, not sure if Advance even sold "Brute Force" joints at that time?.....Cliff

[77 Canamman]

http://www.pepboys.com/parts_supplie...ls/brands.html

[wrench]

http://www.markwilliams.com/drivesha...CategoryID=264

[Cliff R]

As with most other things with this hobby, insist on and use the best parts, especially for driveshafts and diff's. Pontiac engines in particular use/rely on massive amounts of torque to effectively run with/outrun most other makes. This can be incredibly hard on drivetrain parts, to date I've broken EVERYTHING behind my 455 engine, including blowing two 8.5 stock carriers to bits on two consecutive passes. It looked like someone took the cover off and threw a hand grenade inside, blowing the spider gears into a million peices and leaving a fist sized hole in the carrier on the last failure!......Cliff

[60man]

Just for kicks I went to Advance Auto and got a Brute Force joint.
It's the 1310 series. I'll post some pics later of both the Precision joints and the Brute Force..
Has anyone got pics of a Lakewood.Mark Williams,etc...
Must admit this has become interesting to me...
I will say that I found out the Precision SS greasable joint is still cross drilled
where as the non greasable is only "partially" drilled..
Later
This is the box the BF joint came in...

[Jagtec1]

Troy, I think that is the Neapco joint I use. The guy that did my drive shaft told me it would hold up to anything I could throw at it. So far, so good.

[60man]

Thanks Darin.
Ok I'll post the pics of joints.
The one with the RED seals is the Brute Force.
Then I have one of the Greasable(235) & the Non-greasable(234)
joints side by side. The 235 is cross drilled for lube the 234 is not.
In comparing to the BF joint the Bf joint had more metal in the machined area of bearing jounal. But the 234 joint had a thicker wall at the end of journal..trade off !!??
I would still like to see a "solid" Spicer,Mark Williams,etc. to compare.
I think I'm going to try the Brute Force along with the 234 Precision joints.
I included a pic of my destroyed front joint just to show "where" it failed..
This joint was "regular" Precision joint...

ry57pont: If you are street driving I believe the Precision Geasable SS or Non-greasable SS joint will do as well as the Brute Force joint

[60man]

Originally Posted by Cliff R

As with most other things with this hobby, insist on and use the best parts, especially for driveshafts and diff's. Pontiac engines in particular use/rely on massive amounts of torque to effectively run with/outrun most other makes. This can be incredibly hard on drivetrain parts, to date I've broken EVERYTHING behind my 455 engine, including blowing two 8.5 stock carriers to bits on two consecutive passes. It looked like someone took the cover off and threw a hand grenade inside, blowing the spider gears into a million peices and leaving a fist sized hole in the carrier on the last failure!......Cliff

Amen..I hear ya Cliff. This old 9.3" rear is pretty tough...spider gears the weak link.
I went to a spool and cured that but then managed to break both axles in one launch ...Moser cured that. I have only lost one u-joint though even with them not being 1350's...I also think pinion angle has a lot to do with stress on the joints. I also use Moroso u-joint girdles..
And I agree TORQUE is where it is at.....

[grnmnstr]

Spicer 1350 is what you need. Get it and .................... forget ir.

[Brian Baker]

Originally Posted by ry57pont

Sorry i am a little confused too. Advance has a Neapco brute force without zerks for 14.94. is this the one i am looking for? Thanks - ryan

Sounds like it. I recall the Brute Force joints that were installed on my driveshaft weren't that expensive.

[60man]

Originally Posted by grnmnstr

Spicer 1350 is what you need. Get it and .................... forget ir.

Agree...if possible to do it. Hell if I could I would just upgrade the whole driveshaft....and forget it !! That is the way to go. Meanwhile there are those of us that need the strongest 1310/1330 series joint...simple is not always possible
In my case a two piece driveshaft....