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#21
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it is one of the two wires in the circle on the right, and the other wire goes back to the other large dash harness connector just right of the column.
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SOLD SOLD 69 GTO RA 4sp A/C Expresso |
#22
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you can also see that there is only the red and orange wire in the other connector, man this is confusing......
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#23
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It's probably dark green
Follow it and see if it goes to the bulkhead connector Here's how the wires should go in the connector RED Orange Dark Green Empty
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#24
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The post screwed up my spacing
The red is in the top connector. The Orange is directly below the Red The Dark Green should go immediately to the right of the orange The connector by itself on the bottom should be empty
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#25
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Sorry my bad.
The orange is on top The red directly below The dark green immediately to the right the connector by itself on the bottom is empty
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#26
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I just checked the wire and the Y area is a connector that has been there and the wires coming out the other side are 2 PURPLE wires.....
time for bed, tomorrow is another day, thanks again....Nick
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SOLD SOLD 69 GTO RA 4sp A/C Expresso |
#27
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Not sure what you mean about the Y area. Maybe you can get a pic of that. That connector should have 3 wires in it. Bed for me too.
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#28
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Quote:
The 4 prong connector was right in front of the other as you described and there are 2 wires in it, a red and a orange. There is NO sign of a Green wire around the area......
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#29
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good night.....
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SOLD SOLD 69 GTO RA 4sp A/C Expresso |
#30
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Nick,
I do believe that these are the purple wires you are reffering to. You will see my NS/Backup switch on my steering column. That's where the connector on the purple wires plug into. The other connector you see in the pic with the purple wires is the backup light connector which also plugs into the switch on the steering column. In a standard car there is the equivilent of the neutral safety switch but it's installed on the clutch. It's called the clutch safety switch and it will prevent the car from cranking unless the clutch is fully depressed. It's installed directly on the pedal pivot bolt and has an arm that should be activated when the pedal is depressed. Look for your switch and see if you have a connector on there. This should be where the purple wires go to. If that's where they go to or you have no connector on the switch and the purple wires are not terminated that's where they go. If this is the case then the black wire that's spliced into the purple ones needs to go into the empty terminal next to the #7. I have also attached a pic of my 4 pin connector You can see the Red, Orange and the Green wire. That Green one is the one you are missing. It looks like this wire just goes to yout temp sensor and then to the dash's printed circuit. Judging by the gauge of the wire I don't think it's going to help you with the blower. I think the best thing you can do is to use your DMM and trace the circuit. First I would pull the Heater / AC fuse and actually meter it with OHMS to make sure it's good. You can't always tell just by looking. Next with the key in the ACC position go into the engine comp and pull the wire off of the connector for the blower. Hook your + lead to the wire and ground the - lead. If you get 12VDC then your blower motor is shot. If you have no voltage then unplug your Blower resistor and meter the connector. There are 3 wires each one is positive. They are for low, medium and high speeds. If you have you fan turned on you should see 12VDC one at least one of the wires. If that doesn't work then you will want to test the brown wire that goes into you heater control switch in the dash. With the car in the ACC position you should have 12VDC If that doesn't work sell the car
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#31
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Well you are right, that black wire goes to a connector that looks just like the one in your picture with the 2 PURPLE wires coming from the other side of it. I am pretty sure it is attached where you say it should be but I will confirm it tonight.
What baffles me more than anything is that when I started looking for answers in the wiring one of the current problems at that time was; The steering column would not position in the lock position, it was always in the ACC position, but not any of the ACC's worked. Last night you said “There should be another connector very close to that one that has 4 terminals on it. 3 of the terminals should have wires in it. There should be a red, dark green and an orange” and you also said “The Dark Green goes to your temp gauge and your ACC, Start and Run circuits”. Not that it matters but do you think that someone removed this green wire because that person had never been able to turn the ignition (and the steering column) to the lock position and was tired of having the ACC’s on at all times? I just noticed that this morning you said “That Green one is the one you are missing. It looks like this wire just goes to your temp sensor and then to the dash's printed circuit. Judging by the gauge of the wire I don't think it's going to help you with the blower”. Does this mean that the green is NOT connected to the ACC, Start and Run circuits now? Also do you still want me to check the blower "You can try unplugging the 4 terminal connector I just listed and try jumping +12 VDC into the Orange wire and see if your blower starts to work. If it does I would say it's a really good indication that your ingnition switch is toast." I am at work at this time so I can't check anything until tonight. You said "Sell the car", thanks again, Nick
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#32
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OK to clarify a couple of things.
Your sterring column was not in the ACC position. The ACC position is when you turn the key backwards past the locked off position. Turning your key forward towards the engine is the run position and is very bad for your points if the car is not running. The steering column not rotating is just a matter of adjusting your linkage under the car. The linkage connects to the drivers side of your trans. The rod that connects to your steering column runs into a round barrel connector and is secured with a set screw. From what I've read you're supposed to park your car with the gear shift in reverse. When your trans is in reverse loosen the set screw and rotate the steering column all the way counter clockwise then go back under the car and push the rod that connects to your steering column all the way up and then tighten the set screw. Now when you park and put your car in Reverse you'll be able to turn the key to the off position. I think you should trace it the way I said in my last post starting at the blower. That way you're breaking it down one component at a time. I don't think that wire runs the ACC only because it's such a small gauge wire that I don't think it could handle the draw. It connects to the printed circuit behind your dash (piece of plastic with solder traces on it) The green wire that's missing may have been pulled because with the car not going to the off position it may still have been supplying power to the temp gauge and dash area. I don't think the wire was torn out of the car I think it's probably hanging there somewhere. Does your temp gauge and all your instrument panel in your dash work now? If so maybe somebody rerouted the wire to an ACC power source I was joking about selling it
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#33
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Nick,
I steered you a little wrong on the blower resistor. There are only 3 wires on it and one of them is the power input. You would measure between the wire coming in to it and ground to see if you had power reaching the blower. If you do then measure with an OHM meter between the terminal that the power comes in on and one of the other terminal. You should see a resistive value. Then check the other one and you should see more or less resistance. If you see resistance between the input wire terminal and the out put terminals then you blower resistor should be good.
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#34
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Well I just got in from checking everything out......
1. I repaired the black wire and remounted the connector. 2. The black wire does go to a switch as you described and I am confident it is the CSS. 3. I removed each fuse and checked all the fuses one by one and all check OK. 4. Power on, did a recheck on the heater A/C fuse and there was 12.33V power to both sides of the fuse. 5. I set the blower switch to the low position and still nothing, left everything on and moved to the engine compartment. 6. I removed the power to the blower connector (it is mounted low and behind the hoses), tough to reach around the hoses and hard lines. I checked all 5 or 6 terminals and NO POWER found. 7. I pulled the connector to the resistor and found that 1 of the wires did not go int the connector block cavity for it but it was attached to the resistor. I am asuming the resistor is not correct because the connector is a bit smaller. I proceded to check the plug (2wires inside and 1 outside) and I found that there was only 1 with 12.33V and the other 2 were showing no signs of power no matter were the blower speed switch was set on. I became frustrated and came in to report the findings and read your reply about only 1 wire having power and now I am happy again. Does NAPA carry the resistor? I puchased one of these this morning thinking I may need one but after seeing how the one on the car doesn't fit it right, I have no idea the one from ebay will fit. Here is the one I bought. Here is the one on the car, you can see how the wire is outside the connector. I am unsure what is right or wrong, is the connector the right part or is the resistor the right part. Even the one from ebay looks like the span of the terminals will be too wide for this connector.....
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#35
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I just went back and checked the resistor as you said with the OHM setting and there was no reading at all between the terminals, any 2 of them and I checked all the combinations.
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#36
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I just realized I never checked the brown wire to the blower speed switch, do I still need to do this?
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SOLD SOLD 69 GTO RA 4sp A/C Expresso |
#37
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Nick,
The one that is on your car does not look correct. The one you posted before looks identicle to mine. You said you have 12 VDC going into the blower resistor but nothing coming out. To me that says that your blower resistor is no good and needs to be replaced. If you have power going in then you should have the blower fan working if the resistor is good. I would plug the cable back into the resistor and then unplug the wire from the blower motor and check between it and ground to see if you have any power at the blower motor. If you have 12VDC at the blower motor but it won't run Make sure it's grounded properly and if it is then your blower is shot. You can verify this by placing your positive lead on the brown wire from the blower and then placing your negative lead on the mounting bolt that the blowers ground wire goes under. Make sure you scratch through the paint and dirt on the bolt head. If you read 12VDC between these 2 points then your blower motor is shot. If you bought that other relay it's probably a good thing because maybe the one in your car now if not the correct one and it may have fried your blower motor. I'm not sure if they made different ones but it looks like a different style compared to what's on my 69
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#38
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did you read number 6 in my long post, are you asking me to do the same test again?
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#39
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There is only one terminal on the input power for the blower. I think you are talking about the terminal on the AC box. It has a few terminals on it.
The blower motor is the round object at the furthest passenger side of your AC box. It has a single wire that connects near the bottom of it through a round rubber connector.
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#40
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Here's a pic of my blower. The power wire is near the bottom just below the hose You can see the ground wire for it just above the hose and below the marker sitting on the cowl The blower is on the far left and the AC is on the right
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