[Cliff R]

What sort of "testing", dyno? I wouldn't think any tracks are open up his way this time of year.

I'm curious as to how well those huge q-jet looking secondary fuel supply nozzles work vs an annular or downleg booster?.....Cliff

[steve]

he never said anything about a dyno. he said he just wanted to see how it worked. i am thinking jeff could tell me a lot just by looking at it !!!! so i guess in your opinion that 60916 is all wrong for my 400 build...thanks for the input. i'll call crower and see what they say.

[Z Code 400]

Steve,

I haven't used the press-in studs on a Pontiac yet, but we routinely used .465" lift with SBC press-in studs and 275 lbs open pressure on street engines with no problems. However, It would be very easy to convert your heads to screw-in studs and I think it would be a wise investment.

I have used the stock Pontiac dual springs with .465" lift and experienced good results. B-Man has used stock Pontiac dual springs to around .450" lift in one of his engines.

I buy them new from www.sivalves.com for about three bucks a piece. They average 85-90 lbs. on the seat @ 1.590" and 230-235 lbs. open pressure. They work well up to about .475" lift and they coil bind at about .990" overall. They are fine for 5000 rpm and less.

Perhaps B-Man will chime in with more details...Robert

[68bird400HO]

What is the difference between the Crower 60916 and the 60242. The duration (@ .050), lift, and LSA numbers look indentical??

[steve]

as you would expect the guy at crower said i would have NO problem with that cam @ 8:1 !

[gjn]

Originally Posted by steve

as you would expect the guy at crower said i would have NO problem with that cam @ 8:1 !

Technically, they are right. The motor will run....however, you won't be happy.

[67drake]

Originally Posted by 68bird400HO

What is the difference between the Crower 60916 and the 60242. The duration (@ .050), lift, and LSA numbers look indentical??

I've actually posted this same question,as a few others have also.
The specs are very similar as you said,but the 242 takes a stiffer spring. I guess the 242 has a SLIGHTLY faster ramp than the 916,and according to Ken "Ace" Brewer at Pacific Performance 242 can run with a slightly lower CR than the 916.Thats is the whole reason I decided on it. I also wanted to run the 60916,but milling my "96" heads to the small chamber size needed for 9.5+ CR didn't fly with my engine guy.

[Z Code 400]

Steve,

The Isky 256/262 with .425"/.435" lift would be a perfect 'bolt in' camshaft for your lower compression application. It will work with press-fit studs and stock springs.

I have several people using it and they are thrilled with its performance...Robert

[steve]

thanks robert ! who wants to trade a crower 60916 and lifters for one ?

[Bumper]

Originally Posted by Z Code 400

Steve,

The Isky 256/262 with .425"/.435" lift would be a perfect 'bolt in' camshaft for your lower compression application. It will work with press-fit studs and stock springs.

I have several people using it and they are thrilled with its performance...Robert

DD2000 also loves that cam Robert.

[Z Code 400]

It's a good bolt-in street cam for low SCR engines...Robert

[racerboy]

I am very interested in this topic as I am going to call Ace later today (it's only 6 AM out in CA right now) to order a set of his 5140 Tomahawk rods. I also need a cam for my RA III rebuild. The engine is 400 +.030, zero-decked, and am going to have the machinist put a 10 cc dish in the piston to drop the compression. I want it to run on pump fuel.

I am running #12 heads, an M-20, and a 3.55 rear. I was going to go with the 60916 cam, but now it looks like I might be better off with the 242 cam b/c I am running the lower CR. Does that make sense? I have no power brakes in the car, so vacuum for that purpose is not important.

[67drake]

What is your CR going to be?
I don't know what your heads CC at,but I would guess around 75 cc's.
400,.030" over,10 cc piston relief,.040" gasket,block zero decked,I'm showing around 9.8:1,that would be good for the 60916,might be getting close to detonation with the 60242,but Ken would know more about this than me. I would rather run the 60916 myself.

[67drake]

Figured I'd update my old thread. I just got my engine in and the car on the road.
I went a little different route since I first posted this question,so here is what I ended up running.
71' 400 block zero decked,balanced rotating. CR 9.57:1
96 heads,gasket mached, minor clean up and opening up of bowl area. Milled .060" and running .027" cometic head gaskets
SRS pistons .030" over
4340 I-beam rods
Crower 60242 cam
RobbMc 550 fuel pump
stock intake
stock exhaust logs (for now!), 2 1/2" duals
stock breaker point ignition/coil
Quadrajet,done by me,per Cliffs suggestions
Anyway,I just got back from my first test drive,and this thing rocks!
Still alot more there I'm sure,I spent maybe 30 minutes going over some tweaks on the ignition,carb,timimg,in the driveway,then took it out.
My dyno session was a useless waste of time and $$$,so I never got any WOT pulls on it. So no HP/Torque #'s. I'll be going to the local track as soon as I can,so I guess an ET will have to do! I'll post times when I get there.
Thanks alot for all the help you guys! Cliff,Screaming Chief, Ken "Ace" Brewer,and all the other guys I bugged for info these past few months!
Drake

[grandville455]

Awesome Drake!!.. Bring it to the rock!!!

[95ramairformula]

Great news Drake. Did you use stock pushrods with the heads being milled .060? Did you mill the intake side .060?
Post the track times when you get them.

[67drake]

Originally Posted by 95ramairformula

Great news Drake. Did you use stock pushrods with the heads being milled .060? Did you mill the intake side .060?
Post the track times when you get them.

Stock pushrods and rocker arms were used after valvetrain geometery was checked, and verified they would work. The engine builder also milled the intake side.
I plan on going to the local track next Wed.,so I'll post some times here when I get back. I just have to figure out how to get a good launch with this 4-speed,and not grenade this stock original rear end!

[67drake]

Took my 71' GTO to the track tonight.First time out since the engine rebuild. Went OK,I guess. I was predicting 14.0 @ 98. My best was a 14.66 @ 97. w/ a 2.35 60'. Most of my 60' were around 2.5.
I do not have a tach,so launching and shifting consistantly is tough with a 4-speed.I did buy a 5" tach over the winter,but I tried to put it in today,too big to fit on my steering column.Anybody looking for a used speedpro tach with a shiftlight? LOL
Had pointbounce at higher RPM's,so I tried to see what speed to shift at using the speedo,this helped.
I advanced initial timing from 12 degrees to 16,and this upped MPH about 2,and knocked about .3 off ET. I would have advanced more,but I'm afraid of detonation.
Tried to back off airflap adjustment on my Quadrajet secondaries 1/4 turn,but that created a slight bog off the line,so I put it back to original setting before the next run.
These Sears "weatherhandler" white walls (no,I'm not kidding) have got to go! I'll get some new meats when I burn these ones off.Also,I left the stock breakerpoint ignition/coil in there to see how it would do,and because I blew my budget,for now,on the engine rebuild. But I will try at least a Pertronix when I have the $$.
I'll have to play around with it a little I guess. I figure the times were not TOO bad,but I thought it would be a little faster.
Drake

[screamingchief]

Nothing wrong with points,just dont use the light tension OE sets,use the 32oz. (accel) or 38oz. (mallory) high-performance point sets and they should not bounce till upwards of 6500+ RPM's.

OE points use 22oz. tension springs and will usually start to bounce around 4500 RPM.

Full race points use 48oz springs,but those will wear the rubbing block real fast in street use,and will need frequent adjustment for dwell,and obviously more frequent replacement as well.

Also avoid the UNI point sets with the integral condensor,those suck IMHO too.

Standard ignition also offers the HD point sets too,,,they're in the "blue streak" line,,,that is if you can get a part guy who knows how to look them up...

Truth is most all the "jobber" (B/W,AC-Delco,etc.) ignition parts suppliers offer these high perf. point sets,but they're just not all that common anymore,and most parts guys are totally clueless these days to that fact.

A good coil does'nt hurt a points ignition either.

In about 80% of high performance "street" applications I could easily make a points car with $50.00 to $75.00 worth of stuff run just as good as the same car with a $500.00+ ignition system installed on it,it'll start just as easy,run just as hard,keep the plugs just as clean,the only caveat is the eventual need to maintain the points as they wear over time,there the electronic ignition systems will often have an edge.

[67drake]

Good idea. I just have some generic "Autozone" type points in there now. I'll see if that will help.
It was kind of frustrating,because the higher the RPM I shifted at,the better my ET,BUT, if I went a little too far,the points would bounce (maybe around 5000 RPM ?),and KILL my ET for that run. So it seems as if there may be a little more ET there if I get the bounce bug out.