[promptcritical]

You can put the motor at 12 BTDC for #1 (if that's where you want your initial at ), install the distributor where you want, ground #1 plug (or attach a timing light?) and with the ignition on, rotate the distributor slowly until the plug (or timing light?) fires. You should be on 12 BTDC, correct?

[PunchT37]

Yep. Done it that way before. If you have power. I did the sharpie way because motor was on a stand and not in a car. Also, the marks make it fast and easy to relocate if you pull and reinstall.

[Interceptor]

Originally Posted by promptcritical

You can put the motor at 12 BTDC for #1 (if that's where you want your initial at ), install the distributor where you want, ground #1 plug (or attach a timing light?) and with the ignition on, rotate the distributor slowly until the plug (or timing light?) fires. You should be on 12 BTDC, correct?

Good test. Works with HEI?

[pfilean]

You can put the motor at 12 BTDC for #1 (if that's where you want your initial at ), install the distributor where you want, ground #1 plug (or attach a timing light?) and with the ignition on, rotate the distributor slowly until the plug (or timing light?) fires. You should be on 12 BTDC, correct?

I used to use that technique on old Chevy 6s using a test light from the + terminal on the distributor to ground. If the light was on the points were open and when it went off the points closed. Never thought about using it on an HEI with a timing light.

[HWYSTR455]

Originally Posted by lust4speed

I was told many years ago by an old Pontiac mechanic that installing the distributor in any position other than #1 terminal pointing at the driver will incur the wrath of the Pontiac gods. While I'm not very superstitious, I figure that it certainly doesn't hurt to position the distributor the way Pontiac said.

There's truth in this. Biggest reason is you get the most amount of adjustment this way, without the vacuum can hitting something. (I actually shoot for in between 1 and 2 o'clock)

I make lines with a sharpie too, but not until after the distributor is installed the first time, I mark the #1 tower. I also put a mark on the distributor body where the keyway is for lining up the cap, and on the cap in the same spot, can be done prior to install. I always point the pump drive at 2 o'clock, it lines up with where the rotor points.

When I pull or put the dizzy, I grab it by the rotor, and turn & pull/push. If you're off by one tooth you can just pull, turn slightly, and put again.

I like turning the engine by hand and watch the valve action to find comp stroke, #1 intake opens, closes, then line up the mark on balancer with 12. Line the rotor up with the tower you plan on using for #1 wire and you're done. Some like to line the leading edge up with the contact but you're splitting hairs, have to adjust with a light later anyway.

Pointless to try to work it with a spark, you know close enough where it is by above method, no sense complicating things. Hook the timing light up before starting it and check it before shutdown. While it's warming up and breaking in, just advance it at will, doesn't matter what it's timed at until you go to shut down. (so it's right when you start next time)

Crank turns twice for every time the cam does. (4 stroke). Cam dot is always going to be 6 o'clock after an intake/comp stroke. Makes no sense to me to try to line up dots opposing, too much room for error. Just line the dots up together in the middle. You can easily tell the one tooth is point in between the other gears' teeth.

.

[PunchT37]

Originally Posted by lust4speed

I was told many years ago by an old Pontiac mechanic that installing the distributor in any position other than #1 terminal pointing at the driver will incur the wrath of the Pontiac gods. While I'm not very superstitious, I figure that it certainly doesn't hurt to position the distributor the way Pontiac said.

I put my #1 where their #8 is. Makes wiring even a little neater. Less wires crossing over.

[Kenth]

Crank and cam gears at 12 o´clock.
Hold the distributor with the vacuum advance and rotor pointing 90° of engine centerline to drivers fender, with distributor put into the hole the rotor will turn pointing at drivers seat and to #1 terminal.

[johnta1]

Crank turns twice for every time the cam does. (4 stroke). Cam dot is always going to be 6 o'clock after an intake/comp stroke. Makes no sense to me to try to line up dots opposing, too much room for error. Just line the dots up together in the middle. You can easily tell the one tooth is point in between the other gears' teeth.

This is good for aligning the cam/crank gear when installing them.

But with the cam at 6 and the crank gear at 12, it is the #6 firing.
This is 180º from #1 firing.
So if you put the distributor in when like that, the rotor will be pointing at #6 cylinder, while the #1 will be exactly opposite on the cap.
(Put the #6 wire on the cap where rotor is pointing and wire it in order starting at #6, which will put the #1 wire opposite #6. 65721843 c.c. on cap)

As someone said, best way especially if you have no idea where the #1 is, is to hold thumb over the #1 hole and rotate the crank.
When it 'blows' out of the hole that is #1 firing.
Install distributor however you want, and have the rotor point wherever you want and that will be #1 post on cap.
(the oil pump shaft will possibly be needed rotated to let the distributor fully seat down on the shaft and block)

[tom s]

If your by yourself,put a cork in number 1.Just did it last week.Tom

[Old Goat Racer]

Originally Posted by tom s

If your by yourself,put a cork in number 1.Just did it last week.Tom

"Put a cork in it". That's priceless

[BruceWilkie]

55 shop manual

http://www.pontiacsafari.com/55/Shop...nstruments.pdf

57 shop manual

http://www.pontiacsafari.com/57/Shop...nstruments.pdf

In both manuals #1 wire location is oriented the same. However 55 and 56 the advance canister orientation was on passenger side.
In 57 the advance cannister is oriented on drivers side yet # 1 wire is in same location as 55/56. This orientation stayed similar from 57 up.

True you can choose any position you want for both #1 and vacuum canister location and it will run fine.

BUT, on my 59 motor with #'s matching distributor (iron body) it puts point access window and oiler tube in easy to service locations when installed as shown in the 57 shop manual.

What book doesnt show is flat on iron body housing below deck is perpendicular to oil passage(drain) from lifter Valley which allows more oil to distributor shaft and gear than if it were oriented with the flat covered.

I only recently discovered this oil "passage"(from valley) ! Cant say its present on newer blocks cause I dont have one handy to look at. That said the remains of a69 aluminum body distrinutor housing I have does have a flat in same orientation to vac can but it is much smaller and only down by distributor gear. Possibly difference in valley drains between 59 and 69 block?

However, the fact that there are flats in similar locations on both style distributors leads me to believe distributor body orientation might actually matter even if lube isnt pressure fed. Maybe its NOT neccesary to drill galley plug for "better" distributor gear lube. (unless aftermarket distributor with NO flats.)

[Blued and Painted]

No. there are 8 cylinders but 13 gear teeth. You can get the rotor out of phase with the post on the cap.

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