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| The Body Shop TECH General questions that don't fit in any other forum |
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#1
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Please send along the procedure when ready.
Equally cold here tonight -13C. Won't be venturing into the garage tonight.... maybe.
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#2
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FWIW,I bought a cheap($175)but sturdy used trailer from a buddy to move my convt body around on,can modify it to suit my needs,and will probably sell it when I'm done and make money on it.It seems like there is always someone in the neighborhood selling a used trailer.Just an idea that works for me.BTW,-2F is cold?It was -25F last night in Mpls,WAY colder than that "up north".
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#3
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We managed to get the body off the frame this past Saturday. Pics may be found here:
http://s211.photobucket.com/albums/b...400_album/gto/ V1, PM me your contact info and I can send you the lift-procedure. I have a few tweaks I have to make to it (but it worked very well). Cheers, Brian '72 GTO. |
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#4
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when you get done you will wonder why you didnt do it sooner.I did it and there is a sense of pride when you finish if you redo the complete build and you can do everything right
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BOB SLUSSER 937-286-4343 |
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#5
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Now that I'm committed to doing it, it seems to be the only way to go.
Or I'll be committed. |
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#6
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gto406,
Did you only lift the front?, and the rear pivoted on the 4x4 that was attached to the wall? I have never seen anyone do it that way, but it obviously works. Thanks for the pics. |
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#7
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Hello Tempest,
Your most welcome. Note that we lifted both the front and the rear using a total of two (2) engine hoists. The 4x4 was actually bolted to the bumper brackets on the back of the car and we attached an 8500 lb tow-strap (with hooks on each end) to the eyelet bolts on the 4x4 rear-bumper mounting support. The middle was then used as a basis for attaching to the rear-engine hoist (which was positioned off to the side - on the passenger side). Note that by keeping both engine hoists on one side, we were able to work the other side with jacks, etc. I do have a written procedure, if anyone wants it. Just send me a PM with your email, and I am happy to send it along. Good to see other Canadian Pontiac fans - esp. those working on their cars! Cheers, Brian '72 GTO. |
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#8
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OK, I'm going out to buy a welder!
But talk to me like I'm in grade 5... What kind of welder do I need for body repairs? I have someone to do the frame repairs. TIG?
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#9
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MIG, with gas is all you should need.
I bought mine 20 years ago, and has sufficed for every thing including fabbing up a frame receiver hitch to pull a 20' boat. You will need advice as to what the best one is now a days. Advise I would give is to buy it where you can receive a few classes on how to use it properly. Charles |
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#10
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I have found oxy. ace. gas welder is much easier and cheaper for body repair,plus you can heat up stuck bolts bendable metal or cut with just a tip change, You have to spend alot ($1000) to get a decent mig to weld lower currents needed for auto body
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Almost done 68 GTO 4 speed Rust Bucket}Step 18 engine accessories area http://forums.performanceyears.com/f...=1#post3561418 |
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#11
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Found a MIG welder here for $199 with inert gas setup.
220 or 110 Volts. |
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#12
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Quote:
but if you gotta,hook it up with 220 for a better duty cycle
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Almost done 68 GTO 4 speed Rust Bucket}Step 18 engine accessories area http://forums.performanceyears.com/f...=1#post3561418 |
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#13
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.....
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#14
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The area you are working on in the thumbnail is the same area I have rot.
The welder is a Lincoln Electric. Tried it yesterday, seemed pretty good, clean weld and fast. My concern (and at the risk of sounding stupid) is after joining two pieces of panel, how does one grind smooth the weld without "digging" into the panel itself? You can't hold a grinding wheel "flat" against the weld; it's going to be at some angle??? ![]() Should you weld from the "good" side or the back of the pieces??? |
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#15
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Most use angle grinder, hold at 45 degree to weld and lightly grind the weld down, little at time, you don't want to put heat into it. Also wear safety goggles and mask, you don't want to be breathing it. After you get that down, use a die grinder with 1-1/2 in. dia. sanding buttons to finish off to metal surface. You will accidently nick into surrounding surfaces but you will be filling with body filler to take care of seam anyway and smooth out. One thing you don't want is the surface to end up sticking out beyond the normal body line, as it will show up. Better slightly low so it can be filled with mud.
Another thing you will want to do is get a couple scrap pcs of the same gage material and practice welding on them to get your heat and wire speed correct. You can also weld a seam and bend it to check for strength. Shouldn't break where weld is or your too cold. You can also cut across that weld and check for penetration of the weld. As far as welding on the front side or back side if you butting the pcs. together it shouldn't matter, as you should be penetrating all the way thru. Practice makes perfect! |
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#16
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Quote:
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#17
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Thanks 69customs.
Time to get at it! |
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