[TIN TIGR]

great info..my v-8 car is auto and all stock, with ps even..once we get it all measured out, and compared to my early a/fx replica, we can move forward..thanks..

[Doug]

Tom,

It is a stick shift setup using the funky original clutch linkage. I have "fabricated" a couple of bracket pieces out of 1/4 metal to allow relocation of the "engine side" ball stud about 2" back and about an inch lower than stock. The stock "ball stud" is actually more like a 1/2" bolt about 5" long that has its end reduced to 3/8" diameter with a groove for a "E-clip" retainer. That piece is a anchor point for the flat arc-shaped piece that pivots on the "swing paddle" piece of the linkage. My "new" ball stud (pivot bolt) is a 1/2" bolt about 5" long relocated on my homemade bracket pieces. The outer end of the pivot bolt is reduced to 3/8" diameter and I have threaded part of it so that I can use a lock nut to retain the flat piece instead of the E-clip retainer setup.

In addition to the relocated pivot bolt, I put a short 1/2" stud bolt in the original ball stud hole on the block and I put a flat "Z-shaped" brace from that block mounted stud bolt back to the 3/8" reduced diameter portion of the new pivot bolt to act as a stabilizer.

One piece of my "2-piece bracket" for mounting the pivot bolt is a piece of flat 1/4" metal about 2 1/2" wide that is attached to the bell housing where the 2 holes are for the regular factory ball stud bracket mounting. The piece comes out a short distance and bends to go parallel with the block for about 3". The other piece of my bracket is a flat piece of 1/4" straight metal about 4" long that has one end mounted on the block mounted 1/2" stud and the other end "tied together" with the other bracket piece by the pivot bolt. In essence, the two bracket pieces are "sandwiched together". I added a 3/8" bolt to the "sandwich" just for comfort. My bracket pieces just barely pass by and clear the top end of the starter mounting bolt.

Although I built a 63 in 1970 using a tripower 421/Muncie/57 leaf spring and used the funky original 63 clutch linkage without a problem, this time around I wanted to "beef up" some of the linkage so as to eliminate/minimize the aspect of the components being retained by E-clips. First off, for the "paddle part" that pivots off of the frame rail mounted stud, I made up a small "bracket" out of 1" square tubing about 1 1/2" long that is mounted with the same bolt that mounts the front end of the studs flat arm to the frame rail. My piece acts as a "C clamp" device that holds the paddle piece onto the shaft but allows the paddle piece to swing on the shaft.

For the lower end of the clutch "pull rod", I made up a "retainer" out of a couple of flat metal pieces about 2" long that "sandwich" the pull rod end to the triangular piece that actuates the clutch fork pushrod. The E-clip area of the clutch pull rod is now within a hole in the inside piece of flat metal. In essence, the E-clip has been eliminated.

All of this engine compartment part of the clutch linkage is free and clear and will actuate the clutch fork much as the original linkage worked. The rear-most corner of the long branch clears the "paddle part" of the linkage by more than an inch and that is the closest part of anything to the linkage mechanism. I am using lock nuts on all bolt fittings, etc.

Funny thing is that prior to working on my current project, I had thought that the "funky" clutch linkage worked such that the "paddle part" and the triangular part both pivoted a substantial amount. My thought was that it worked that way to achieve some "overcenter" function. When I got to looking at it though, I realized that the "paddle part's" movement was limited by the flat arc shaped piece. I realized that the "paddle part" was allowed to pivot along with the arc shaped piece so as to compensate for the movements of the engine. BTW, the "paddle part" now hangs only slightly toward the rear of the car instead of being somewhat vertical before. I don't think that slight change will affect the "geometry" of the linkage to any degree.

Since you are a guru on these 63's, I figure you can maybe understand about all that I described. I'd be glad to talk about it some more at any time.

Keep up the good work!

[tom s]

the first time I did one was with the stock linkage like you have done.The last 2 have been done with the hyd throwout bearing.When I did one with a V8 on a V8 mount and X member I had to notch the X member on the drivers side to clear the long branch.Sounds like you raised the engine and it cleared it.On my current car which was a 4 cyc car I moved the engine a touch toward pass side to allow for 2in tubes.Tom

[Doug]

Tom,

On your first one, did you have any problems of note with the clutch linkage? Was it pretty much in the stock configuration?

My mock-up engine (1971 455) installed in the car doesn't have an oil pan on it. My real engine is a 67 428 and I installed it on the crossmember when I was making motor mounts, etc. That engine's oil pan (I assume it is a stock 67 unit) cleared the crossmember about 1/2" so I am about as low with the engine as I could be.

I had some questions/concerns about the 5 degrees rearward downtilt of my motor in regards to the manifold fitting the crossmember but it appears that it will clear sufficiently.

I don't remember how I handled the exhaust on my first car in 1970 but I do recall that I used some flexible exhaust pipe on the driver side.

In addition to the "E-clip" mods I discussed I also replaced the 3/8" pivot rod for the paddle and triangular piece. That rod had an E-clip on each end. I used a 3/8" bolt with a lock nut.

It has been a real learning experience so I take every opportunity to share what I have learned. I hope this car runs as well as the one I built before!

[tom s]

my first one was done in 1964!I only remember the linkage had to be redsigned as few times to handle the clutch we had in the car.When I did this car and the others after I did not even bother with mech linkage.WAY to easy to use the hyd bearing IMO.Tom