[Sloan66]

Revive this thread. The reason the front brakes were dragging was the rod going into the back of master cylinder is 1/8 to long. Does not let master cylinder fully release. I still have my original booster and the rod is actually longer, but recesses farther into booster. I doubt they make a rod that much smaller. Left with ordering another one, rebuilding the original, not sure what direction to go.

[gtospieg]

How about shortening the rod 1/8"...

[Old Blue 66]

Originally Posted by Sloan66

Revive this thread. The reason the front brakes were dragging was the rod going into the back of master cylinder is 1/8 to long. Does not let master cylinder fully release. I still have my original booster and the rod is actually longer, but recesses farther into booster. I doubt they make a rod that much smaller. Left with ordering another one, rebuilding the original, not sure what direction to go.

How did you figure this out?

[Old Blue 66]

Originally Posted by Satyr1966

I've changed one of my '66 GTOs over to a dual master cylinder. I used a '67 master cylinder & a '67 brake booster. Has anyone used a '67 dual master cylinder on a smaller '66 Booster? Just wondering because I'm going to be doing this on my Son's '66 & I don't want to have to get the bigger '67 booster if it's not necessary.

IM in the process of doing this right now. Not sure based on the age of this post if you have already done it or not but on my car the rod coming out of the 66 booster was too long. I ordered one via Inlinetube that is shorter. When I get it, Ill post results.

Back to topic.

[Sloan66]

I guess I could grind off some, that makes me a little nervous. How I figured it out was when i installed the master I noticed it pushed fluid. So I took off master established a reference point identical for both the OEM and the repo. The rod on repo sticks out farther. Plus when i installed the OEM master on OEM booster no fluid pushed,