[grivera]

Originally Posted by STEELCITYFIREBIRD

Are you using an MSD/ignition box?

No. Not required in this set up.

Originally Posted by FrankieT/A

if you are not getting a tach signal while cranking, its the pick up in the distributor. i have been through that before. while talking to FITech they say you should have tach while cranking.

I will test the pick up with my voltmeter...apparently it has to read a certain range of resistance. While I hope it's this simple, the dizzy is brand new and only used on dyno.

[STEELCITYFIREBIRD]

I'd bet a wiring or handheld setting issue. Not much to a 2 wire, and they rarely go bad except for corrosion. IDK if pickup polarity is an issue with the EFI but it is with a box.

[grivera]

I measured the resistance and got reading of .554 ohms (M)

Does M mean mega-ohms?

Here are troubleshooting instructions from FiTech:

"For this style distributor, the only real specification is to check the resistance of the magnetic pickup. Use an ohm meter across the two wires and confirm that the resistance is between 400 and 1,300 ohms. If the pickup is out of this specification, it may not be triggering the ignition box. Confirm the operation of the ignition and coil by following the “How to False Trigger Your MSD Ignition” selection. If the ignition and coil check out as detailed, then the distributor pickup may be at fault."

[Squidward]

What did you do with your blue "tach" wire? It needs to stay away from ground (and anything else - not used at all with timing control), or else it will stop ignition. I had this happen to me last week. Turns out I had jostled my wiring harness and the blue wire connector was touching the tranny bellhousing.

My Jegs brand Pro-billet copy had no issues with green/violet polarity - the FiTech and the disty wire matched. But I have read about polarity mismatches requiring swapping of green and violet. It kinda red flagged me a little when you said that the disty wire with the stripe went to the different colored wire on the harness.

And yes, .554 M-ohms would equal 554k ohms, which is way out of your listed spec.

[grivera]

Originally Posted by Squidward

What did you do with your blue "tach" wire?

My Jegs brand Pro-billet copy had no issues with green/violet polarity - the FiTech and the disty wire matched. But I have read about polarity mismatches requiring swapping of green and violet. It kinda red flagged me a little when you said that the disty wire with the stripe went to the different colored wire on the harness.

I wrapped the blue wire and taped it up into a neat bundle with the fan wire that is also not used in my application- neither is touching metal.

I tried the connector both ways- had to force it to match colors and it didn't make a difference. I may buy a new pickup - I will make wire colors match too.

[grivera]

I stand corrected - just measured again and the pickup resistance measured at .554 K ohms which equals 554 ohms and within range. This being the case it has to be the ECU...Not sure how I saw an "M" before.

thoughts?

[STEELCITYFIREBIRD]

I read up on how to false trigger the ignition per FITECH. Or use conventional timing thru dizzy, and see if the system will sense RPM, get it running and deal with the timing control problem with FITECH tech later.
Are you sure it is not a setting on the handheld?

[grivera]

Yesterday I called tech support and we walked through the hand held settings. Bryce had me reset to the default V8 file and put all the settings back in while he was on the phone. No dice. I did have a glimmer of hope when I noticed my fuel lines were swapped and in wrong ports of TB - which explains why I didn't smell fuel. I swapped the lines and still no tach signal when engine cranks. I do smell fuel now though...

I thought about putting a conventional dizzy in but would rather resolve the issue now.

[grivera]

I got it fired! So it turns out that even though it ran previously (without timing control) with the white wire connected to an ACC port at fuse box, for the EFI to control timing the white wire needs 12V while cranking. I connected it to the (+) side of coil and it started up. I did have to crank a few times and now the battery's power is down and doesn't crank fast enough to start. I hooked it to a float charger and will give it a shot tomorrow or Sunday.

[ErikW]

Glad you got it going

[64speed]

Well I got the sniper fuel tank setup and the distributor and was gonna order the system directly from Holley and their tech told me that I really needed to be using the terminator setup on my engine with the projected HP of my 466 with aluminum heads and headers etc. Anybody run the terminator? I don't want to spen the extra grand unless I have too but they told me if I push the sniper past 80% duty cycle regularly it will fail.

[Squidward]

Originally Posted by grivera

I got it fired! So it turns out that even though it ran previously (without timing control) with the white wire connected to an ACC port at fuse box, for the EFI to control timing the white wire needs 12V while cranking. I connected it to the (+) side of coil and it started up. I did have to crank a few times and now the battery's power is down and doesn't crank fast enough to start. I hooked it to a float charger and will give it a shot tomorrow or Sunday.

That is what I did. When I ran HEI it was spliced in with the BAT wire, which is now redirected to the coil + now that I am doing the timing control. Thumbs up for you!

[Squidward]

Originally Posted by 64speed

Well I got the sniper fuel tank setup and the distributor and was gonna order the system directly from Holley and their tech told me that I really needed to be using the terminator setup on my engine with the projected HP of my 466 with aluminum heads and headers etc. Anybody run the terminator? I don't want to spen the extra grand unless I have too but they told me if I push the sniper past 80% duty cycle regularly it will fail.

How close do you think your hp projection will be? There was a dyno result posted today by Paul running a 455. That might be good for comparison sake.

I am guessing that the only way to get closer to the duty cycle sweet spot is to go with bigger injectors, which means Terminator?

[Firebob]

Those are 100gph injectors in the Sniper. I would think they should be plenty big enough. We'll see. Just going off the motor that was dynoed in the other thread I should be around 500+hp/525ftpds. You might want to wait on cracking that box on the Sniper till I get mine up and running. I plan on mounting up the fuel pump and running the hoses this weekend. Shouldnt take long to fire it after the fuel system is installed.

[JLMounce]

Originally Posted by 64speed

Well I got the sniper fuel tank setup and the distributor and was gonna order the system directly from Holley and their tech told me that I really needed to be using the terminator setup on my engine with the projected HP of my 466 with aluminum heads and headers etc. Anybody run the terminator? I don't want to spen the extra grand unless I have too but they told me if I push the sniper past 80% duty cycle regularly it will fail.

You're falling for marketing spin to get you to spend more money. I addressed this in the other EFI thread, but you have to take into account how the injectors are firing in a TBI setup. They don't have the same type of run state you see with port injection.

How is the sniper not going to support your power when Holley advertises it to support more power than a terminator?

Marketing to get you to spend more money. The Terminator system is better, don't get me wrong, but if you're after a carb replacement, the sniper will be fine.

If you are wanting something in the carb replacement price point, but are actually worried you're going to max the system out, I'd recommend the FiTech meanstreet. It'll support right at about 800hp with a 340lph pump feeding it.