[HWYSTR455]

Originally Posted by 64speed

What about my plan of heating them up and massaging them? Think that would work? I am not a gambling man but at 168 bucks it’s worth a try over 800 Doug’s. I know you get what you pay for but even a blind squirrel gets a nut sometimes

You can try it, you don't have much to lose. You won't be able to send them back, but since you will most likely go over the 90 days return policy, it kind of doesn't matter.

Post your experience so others have a reference.

I'm not blindly knocking these things guys, and am only posting my personal experience. If you take a shot at them, please, post your experience so others can benefit without having to make a purchase without input.

Like I said too, look at the feedback of the sellers, you will see many have issues with them. And not just on Pontiacs.

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[64speed]

So assuming these OBX headers work out how long does the stainless stay looking good before it gets raggedy looking?

[ERIC AULL]

I have a set on my 67 GTO..has the same issue with the right side header hitting the tranny pan (4L80e)......I put a "porta-power" between the header and the left side frame rail...and slowly and lovingly pumped.......left it overnight......problem solved.. They fit better than the Doug's that I originally tried to use....

[64speed]

What’s a porta power

[64speed]

Ok I looked up porta power and got my answer. Did you say you mounted it to the drivers side frame rail and pushed from there? How did you do it

[HWYSTR455]

Originally Posted by ERIC AULL

I have a set on my 67 GTO..has the same issue with the right side header hitting the tranny pan (4L80e)......I put a "porta-power" between the header and the left side frame rail...and slowly and lovingly pumped.......left it overnight......problem solved.. They fit better than the Doug's that I originally tried to use....

Yeah, not sure that's a good example, since you're using an aftermarket frame. But glad it worked out for you.

With an OE frame, since it's channeled, not sure the frame wouldn't move too.

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[ERIC AULL]

HWYSTR455......True, I'm not sure either....nor was I sure the header bolts wouldn't pull out of the heads. Perhaps rigging something to PULL instead of push might work....I don't know what 64speed has access to...maybe a big truck......a building column (garage footing), a "mighty oak tree"....point being, they are 'tweakable".....

[Formulajones]

Originally Posted by 64speed

What about my plan of heating them up and massaging them? Think that would work? I am not a gambling man but at 168 bucks it’s worth a try over 800 Doug’s. I know you get what you pay for but even a blind squirrel gets a nut sometimes

That's how I tweak headers and exhaust systems here. On pipes I usually rig up a ratchet strap while on the lift, sometimes with a combination of a pole jack, move to the desired position and then gently heat the pipe with a torch to relax the tension.

The only draw back to this is if you have a coating. Stainless will discolor, etc....

I haven't had the best experience with Dougs when I put a set on our 69 Z/28. You would think the most common car in the world with the most common engine in the world, they should have the header design down pat. Unfortunately they do not clear the back drive linkage at all. I had to completely tweak the #7 header tube. What kills me is that there is plenty of room down there for Dougs to redesign that pipe and clear the back drive rod no problem. For $700 I expected better. I likely won't buy another set of Dougs. I'd rather take my chances on a cheaper set and just tweak from there. I mean I'm spending $700 on headers and tweaking those anyway

[ERIC AULL]

Your method should work. Basically the same, just be real careful with the heat....gotta get them almost glowing to make that work....and YES the polished stainless "blues"..then turns a smooth dark brown.....but no flaky rust! Yes, I was dissapointed with the Doug's also....

[HWYSTR455]

In my case, I have e-heads, and actually, the thought of pulling (with a cable/etc) them never crossed my mind. I did consider trying to tweak them, but I had them on & off so many times already, I was frustrated, and just gave up.

I did a Doug's review too I think, they required some tweaking, but the least amount of tweaking than any header I've tried to date. I still agree though, for that money, they should just plain fit right. (Not to mention that's what they tout in their' advertising).

I did find that the Doug's larger tube O-port A-body headers fit better than the smaller version, which I found somewhat odd (though understandable). But those can't be used on AC cars. (tube contacts evap box)



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[64speed]

I have a lift in my shop. It just bugs me that I might have thrown away 170 bucks. Oh well I can use them on the dyno during break in and then switch to something better when it comes time to drive it. I have actually wondered about how much grinding is required to get the ram air manifolds to fit the 64 chassis and truly how much power I would leave on the table.

[Formulajones]

In the past there has been some pretty good dyno comparisons between the manifolds. I know Dennis and Dan has done quite a bit, and Paul has had some recent dyno time with them.

Depends on the engine in question but from what I've seen and done the RA manifolds are pretty darn good for engines with ~500hp or less. So if you're building a mild street engine in that power range I probably wouldn't sweat the power difference.

[tom s]

2X FJ,my recent 455 on Joe Shermans dyno he figured we lost about 15 HP over my dyno headers with the long branch.NEVER feel it on the seat of the pants dyno IMO.Tom