[Scott65]

I believe 455TA is giving you sound advice, and would follow it, as it is sound in general theory, AND is brand specific to what you're using. Good luck getting it going.

[Jack P.]

Did you measure 12v at the pump? running to small a wire will get you less than 12v at pump.

[JLMounce]

I've been running my FiTech with a Walbro 255 for 3 seasons now. Very early model 30001 600 non PA. No issues.

Hooking it up dead head without the regulator for testing purposes should be okay. It'll tell you if the regulator you have is bad, which is what I'm leaning towards. This way shouldn't present a problem for the FiTech unless you're bypassing more fuel through the return and starving the head unit.

It's not as nice of an install because you have more fuel lines to worry about, but I use this setup in mine as well as my wife's 71 Chevelle that we just put a 30003 on.

http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/pa...rod/prd548.htm

It just flat works. Yes it's soft line and I'm sure that some will have issue with that, but as long as it's inspected regularly and replaced as necessary, there shouldn't be issue there.

[77 TRASHCAN]

The plumbing of your regulator must be putting your supply fuel to your F/I unit on the low pressure side (return side). An air hose blowing into your gauge would tell if it's bad.

Of course I am just stating what others have already...

[adynes]

I don't know how the Fitech works, but my Megasquirt only powers the pump for 2 seconds to prime the system when the key is turned on, and doesn't power the pump again until it sees a tach signal when cranking the engine. If you are keying the car on and then crawling underneath to look at the regulator/gauge, the pump might not actually be running. I would jump full 12v to the pump from the battery while troubleshooting and getting the regulator set.

Ideally, the regulator will hold pressure after priming, but if there is even the smallest leakage across the ball and seat (or across the injectors, or the pumps internal check valve), it will bleed down in short order. A very small leakage is not a problem while the pump is running though as it can be an insignificantly small percentage of full pump flow.

As to the car only sputtering when trying to start it, you might need to bleed the air out of the fuel line since you have it set up deadhead style. Or just crank it more and let it self bleed, but that might take a while.

[JLMounce]

Originally Posted by adynes

I don't know how the Fitech works, but my Megasquirt only powers the pump for 2 seconds to prime the system when the key is turned on, and doesn't power the pump again until it sees a tach signal when cranking the engine. If you are keying the car on and then crawling underneath to look at the regulator/gauge, the pump might not actually be running. I would jump full 12v to the pump from the battery while troubleshooting and getting the regulator set.

Ideally, the regulator will hold pressure after priming, but if there is even the smallest leakage across the ball and seat (or across the injectors, or the pumps internal check valve), it will bleed down in short order. A very small leakage is not a problem while the pump is running though as it can be an insignificantly small percentage of full pump flow.

As to the car only sputtering when trying to start it, you might need to bleed the air out of the fuel line since you have it set up deadhead style. Or just crank it more and let it self bleed, but that might take a while.

The FiTech does function like this. It is only sending fuel if it sees rpm at 200 or better. The factory style starter in my 455 won't turn the engine that fast, so what you end up doing is priming the system, it fires off, then fuel starts flowing.

I believe in the pro tuning software you can adjust that parameter, but I have not as it's never been a problem for me.

[adynes]

Originally Posted by JLMounce

The FiTech does function like this. It is only sending fuel if it sees rpm at 200 or better. The factory style starter in my 455 won't turn the engine that fast, so what you end up doing is priming the system, it fires off, then fuel starts flowing.

I believe in the pro tuning software you can adjust that parameter, but I have not as it's never been a problem for me.

If that's the case, I think he def needs to jump 12v to the pump to set the regulator and probably for first startup. Bleeding the line at the throttle body would probably help too (with the pump off, residual pressure only). If running full time 12v to the pump for the first startup, do it in such a way that power can quickly be removed in case of a fire.

[Jack P.]

Originally Posted by adynes

If that's the case, I think he def needs to jump 12v to the pump to set the regulator and probably for first startup. Bleeding the line at the throttle body would probably help too (with the pump off, residual pressure only). If running full time 12v to the pump for the first startup, do it in such a way that power can quickly be removed in case of a fire.

He can do that in the set up, their is a lock out feature [full 12v]as noted a couple posts back from the Tanksinc. site.

[adynes]

Originally Posted by Jack P.

He can do that in the set up, their is a lock out feature [full 12v]as noted a couple posts back from the Tanksinc. site.

I was thinking that was just to disable the pump PWM function while the engine was running, not to make the pump run full time while the key was on but engine off...

[STEELCITYFIREBIRD]

Based my comment off all the production car stuff I have seen Jason.
Zero experience with aftermarket assemblies.
I've changed out a lot of production pumps and assemblies. And repaired many nylon lines.
Ear clamps are what I have always seen/used, like the upper clamp on your assembly, with thin wall nylon tubing.

The worm gear clamp is what came with the pump?

Summit.... and Jegs more so, are great with warranting/returning defective/unneeded parts.

Your makin' (forward?) progress at any rate.

Lots of info on working with nylon fuel tubing on YOUWHOTUBE.

[Jack P.]

I to studied this before going LS regulator, but I'm not done yet. Everything everyone has said is good info. plus I would like to add one thing that may not help but should be done. Cut the PWM wire close to the TB, not real close but then with good connectors or solder, run a larger wire to the pump. I am running a #8 for my 255lph from front to back. Voltage drop can be a real problem in low voltage systems like cars. The Fitech pumps are the only one's I have found that can use the PWM, others can not. There is a lock out in your set up.

[Lee]

Originally Posted by Jack P.

I to studied this before going LS regulator, but I'm not done yet. Everything everyone has said is good info. plus I would like to add one thing that may not help but should be done. Cut the PWM wire close to the TB, not real close but then with good connectors or solder, run a larger wire to the pump. I am running a #8 for my 255lph from front to back. Voltage drop can be a real problem in low voltage systems like cars. The Fitech pumps are the only one's I have found that can use the PWM, others can not. There is a lock out in your set up.

FAST offers a pump that works with PWM. It is expensive, but it also is rated at over 1,000hp on gasoline.

TanksInc makes a note that their 190 and 255lph pumps (Walbro) will NOT work with PWM control - not sure about that Hyperfuel pump.

Links from TanksInc:
About not using those pumps with PWM, 6th "NOTE" down:
http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/pa...prod/prd84.htm

When used with FITech: http://www.tanksinc.com/pdf/SettingF...Tech_-_Web.pdf

[STEELCITYFIREBIRD]

Wow, what a piece of crap assembly, I've never seen a worm gear band clamp used on an in tank pump.
The're not intended to wind down that small.

[FrankieT/A]

I would think deviating from how FITech outlines fuel connections at the actual TB wouldn't need to be contemplated until the system was close to reaching the horsepower/demand limits of the unit itself, no?

[Squidward]

The Bird breathes fire again.

I keep checking on Summit to see if my replacement pump has shipped. The estimated shipping date has changed almost every week, and is now out to somewhere in May. It won't stay comfortable outdoors here much longer, so I want to drive this thing.

I looked on the web for a comparable pump (255 lph) as an interim solution. I some cheap possibilities, and decided to get this until the FiTech pump shows up:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Whaddya know? It was a almost a total drop in exact fit. The quality was a little bit below what FiTech provides, but it included a MUCH more flexible outlet hose. The electrical connector was identical, and the length/width was the same. The inlet on the bottom was a slightly smaller diameter and didn't fit the FiTech provided suction screens, so I used the filter screen that came with the pump.

I dropped in the pump, and fired it right up. I had relocated the pressure gauge up forward so I could see pressure in the engine compartment. After a couple of tweaks to the regulator, I was at 58psi. No leaks.

I'm gonna ride this pump until it fails, and then I will have the FiTech pump by then as a backup.

Not bad for $18, huh? It has me back on the road.

[JLMounce]

The older systems like mine you disable PWM completely and it runs full voltage to the pump at all times. The newer systems you can't disable PWM, you just set it sufficiently high that you are basically always running the pump.

[TedRamAirII]

Did YOU install the pump, etc? Or just bolt it in? If you hear splashing in the tank, perhaps there is a issue between the pump and the pipe going to the regulator. I would be pulling that tank and checking the fuel pump plumbing connections inside the tank.

[JLMounce]

It's easy to mix up if you're multi-tasking a bit (ask me how I know) but make sure your feed line is attached to the pump outlet and the return to the return outlet on the pump module. I did this and some of the symptoms you are experiencing happened. I knew right away what I had done.

FWIW I don't hear fuel circulating in my tanks inc tank during operation. I however did hear what sounded like a rushing river in the tank when the lines were installed incorrectly.

[adynes]

Bad ground maybe? Do you have a good tank vent?

[JLMounce]

Every in tank pump module I’ve dealt with has worm gear clamps. All of the plumbing is interference fit, so it’s just a bit of redundancy. I don’t have the FiTech pump but instead the tanks inc gpa 4 module. I’ve got a gpa 2 in my wife’s Chevelle, very similar design.

At any rate I would be blaming the clamp here since it’s clear the outlet port separated from the pump body itself.