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#21
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WOW, Thats not core shift. Look at an E-head bare casting you'll
see the same thing. Ask me how I know. If you want a 87cc head open up the chamber? GT |
#22
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GT |
#23
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My engine is strictly a street setup 400 in a ‘69 firebird.
My main reason for going this route on the heads is the cost to recondition my stock ‘68 small chamber, small valve #15 heads was going to to get close to the cost of these. My current heads are basically stock except for the crower springs and screw in studs. The valves are original and the guides are worn out. The seals leak and I get a puff of blue smoke on cold starts. And because of the oil issue, I’m getting a very slight ping when climbing hills. If I’m understanding the general thoughts from the responses, I should be ok to get some head bolts, BBC rocker studs and nuts, and guide plates and slap these on? Or do I need to do a full disassemble? Another question is: will the already installed springs be adequate for my voodoo 703 cam and do i need new pushrods and a new head gasket? My current head gasket is the steel one where you copper coat on one side from Butler. |
#24
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The cost of doing that puts you right at what you can buy a Kaufman 87cc set for.
__________________
Triple Black 1971 GTO |
#25
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Sorry I meant do it your self. Thats what I do.
I didn't think some may not be able to do this My Bad. GT |
#26
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Run dished pistons.
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#27
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Yeah. Hogging 15 cc out of the chambers is one thing, taking it out of the correct area, and maintaining the identical shapes and angles is a different story.. I’ve unshrouded for oversized valves and eyeballed the chamber shape on junk iron heads, but that was different.
__________________
Triple Black 1971 GTO |
#28
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Anyone cnc porting these yet?
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#29
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__________________
1965 Pontiac GTO 455/469 w/ #48 Heads, '65 Tri-Power 9.25:1 CR Stump Puller Cam Muncie M22W 1st-2.56 2nd-1.75 3rd-1.37 4th-1.00 3.55 Rear Differential Front: 225/60R15 Height: 25.6" Rear: 275/60R15 Height: 28" |
#30
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One friend of mine that was a lifer there was telling me that until recently the chinese used steam powered locomotive and were building new steam powered locomotives through most of the 20th century. They only recently have copied the technology from the diesel electromotive locomotives for their own railroads, and switched from steam powered locomotives. The castings to build one of there locomotives are large, and complex, I would say that the chinese might have a handle on sand casting, maybe as good as the US, or better. |
#31
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Yes, in my previous career, I worked for a Chinese company. In house we did hot and cold forging, fabrication, wax cast steel, light machining, and we had a "boutique" hot-rolled steel operation. Our production was about 500 tons a month, which is small.
We outsourced to other foundries for sand cast iron (pig & ductile), sand cast aluminum, and die casting. I traveled frequently to Hebei and visited the foundries we worked with. They've been casting there for about 3,000 years. The problem in China is sourcing quality material for low volume production. We required good material for forging. Good meaning low carbon, consistent properties, and sharp profile.
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1965 Pontiac GTO 455/469 w/ #48 Heads, '65 Tri-Power 9.25:1 CR Stump Puller Cam Muncie M22W 1st-2.56 2nd-1.75 3rd-1.37 4th-1.00 3.55 Rear Differential Front: 225/60R15 Height: 25.6" Rear: 275/60R15 Height: 28" |
#32
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I'm with Tom way back on post 3. I learned a long time ago to never install new aftermarket heads without first taking them to a competent shop to check the valve job, valve guide clearance, and check the springs. Most will do this for a minimal fee. If you do that, one of your questions of whether the springs are adequate for your camshaft will be answered. I find more times than not, a generic spring supplied with aftermarket heads don't always suffice for the intended camshaft being used unless you talked to them upon ordering and specified a particular spring package. Just having them looked over is good piece of mind and can save you down the road. I wished I had done that 20 something years ago on a set of AFR's I bought. That mistake cost me $1500 to fix after the fact. Now I have them all checked before use. |
#33
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Mark does a nice video on why it's a good idea to have new aftermarket heads checked.
https://youtu.be/TsOmhHj-zqA |
#34
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#35
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He seems to be in a hurry, I would guess to maybe keep the video short.
I think he gets the point across well enough though. Even with an expensive set of heads, they aren't perfect out of the box. And those tolerances he found, as he points out, are considered better than a lot of the lesser heads on the market. As he said, it's not terrible and better than most, and it'll run like that, but when you spend $3200 on a set of heads (that's what mine cost 20 years ago) It makes you wonder. Even though we aren't talking about race engines here, and neither was Mark, I still want my stuff to be right. Most others just want their engine to run and these small details don't matter to them. Just offering this as food for thought. |
#36
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__________________
1967 Firechicken, 499", Edl heads, 262/266@0.050" duration and 0.627"/0.643 lift SR cam, 3.90 gear, 28" tire, 3550#. 10.01@134.3 mph with a 1.45 60'. Still WAY under the rollbar rule. |
The Following User Says Thank You to AG For This Useful Post: | ||
#37
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You then have piece of mind when you open the box they are ready to go. |
The Following User Says Thank You to Formulajones For This Useful Post: | ||
#38
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How much did that work of art set you back?
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#39
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Just got my cylinder heads today. I think they look nice.
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#40
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Springs and exhaust port
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