[jreynolds]

There's a guy named Hector Carrillo that advertises on the Pontiac FB groups (search Carhex) that rebuilds steering boxes. They look pretty nice and he will do a exchange or rebuild your own box with fast ratio gears. From what I've read people seem pretty happy with him and he's reasonably priced. He's out of California.

[RocktimusPryme]

Originally Posted by jreynolds

There's a guy named Hector Carrillo that advertises on the Pontiac FB groups (search Carhex) that rebuilds steering boxes. They look pretty nice and he will do a exchange or rebuild your own box with fast ratio gears. From what I've ready people seem pretty happy with him and he's reasonably priced. He's out of California.

He was in an early Roadkill episode. I didn’t know he did steering boxes. I might send my original out for rebuild to replace the one that leaks.

[mike76]

Originally Posted by mgarblik

Just reading your original post I need to ask this. If it drove OK in 1979, the likely wear parts since then are not the steering gear box. Now if you were unhappy in 1979, it's possible, I guess. A high dollar rebuild with a faster steering ratio will improve the steering for sure if you want to go that route. If you want it to handle like a 1971 GTO did in 1971, the steering box is likely not at fault. I would do a "dry park test" first to assess the steering linkage. With the car parked, steering wheel straight on the ground, have an assistant wiggle the steering wheel back and forth through the looseness until he feels resistance in both directions. While this is going on, you should be looking and feeling for movement in the inner and outer tie rod ends, up and down movement in the center link, idler arm and pitman arm. All of these items are far more likely to give you a loose, disconnected feeling from the steering system than the gear itself. If all those parts are nice and tight and you are still not happy with the steering, then a new box may be a good option. There is very little to wear out in a Saginaw steering gear. They are very rugged and reliable. The sector gear can wear a little and it is adjustable. It is extremely rare for the ball/rack to wear out, especially at only 122K miles. Good luck with it.

Yes. But if one has side to side movement in the steering wheel before it tightens up( say 3 or 4in one side to the other and steering shaft is of coarse moving) and the pitman arm is not moving then the only possible causes are either the rag joint or the steering box.

[mgarblik]

Originally Posted by mike76

Yes. But if one has side to side movement in the steering wheel before it tightens up( say 3 or 4in one side to the other and steering shaft is of coarse moving) and the pitman arm is not moving then the only possible causes are either the rag joint or the steering box.

Yes, the rag joint should be looked at as well. I forgot to mention that part. It is a wear item as well. Sorry.

[Scarebird]

This is the best concerning non-rack boxes. They are not in stock but may know of others who do:

https://turnonesteering.com/products...teering-boxes/

[rohrt]

My vote is to keep the box original with the car. Quick ratio parts can be swapped in. You would be assured the stops will be the same. The only other thing to think about is the torsion bar. You might want to consider if you want it increased or not. It has to do with the effort needed to turn the wheel.

[Steve C.]

"The only other thing to think about is the torsion bar. You might want to consider if you want it increased or not. It has to do with the effort needed to turn the wheel."

X2

.

[bob prichard]

I had my GTO steering box built here: https://leepowersteering.com/

They did a nice job about 8 years ago, been ok since then. The owner told me he used to work for Mickey Thompson.

[Schurkey]

1. The FIRST thing you look at is the rag joint. Rag joint issues are absolutely epidemic on GMT400 pickups and SUVs ('88--98-ish pickups, and their related SUV cousins) Rag joints have a certain lifespan, and A-body originals are way past that at this point. The "rag" gets sloppy from wear, age, and general deterioration. Then all the motion is transmitted by the "safety stops", leaving a dead area in between where the rag just flexes without turning anything. You can see evidence of this by closely examining the safety stops--if they're polished, they're in contact, and if they're in contact the rag is shot.

2. All the other suspension/steering joints and rubber bushings are similarly suspect, as is the wheel-bearing adjustment and the alignment angles. Be sure the frame isn't rusted/cracked/broken in the steering box area.

3. There's multiple parts in the steering box that affect how it "feels" as you drive. The gear ratio; including whether it's a fixed- or variable-ratio. The torsion bar, (stiffer has less assist, more road-feel) and the steering stops. And of course, BOTH adjustments. The common problem is that the second adjustment is too tight, because the first adjustment is too loose, and they're trying to compensate. ALL of this needs to be "right". If any one of these variables is "off", you'll be unsatisfied.

For example, someone who shall not be named but who's initials are "ME" installed a '75 Nova steering box into a '68 A-body, because he figured that at 2.5 turns lock-to-lock, it had to be a fast-ratio gearbox. No, not so. It's a slow-ratio gear box, with restricted travel via internal steering stops. A-bodies don't use steering stops in the gearbox, the steering stops are when the steering knuckle hits the reinforced pad on the control arm. So now, his A-body takes forty acres to make a U-turn, and still has a crappy ratio and torsion bar.

For the record, the "Hot Trick" for '64--'72 GM A-bodies is to grab a used-but-usable steering gearbox from a '92--'98 Jeep Grand Cherokee, and a 7826542 rag joint plus 7807271 pinch-bolt or aftermarket equivalents. That box bolts to the A-body frame and Pitman arm, the new rag joint adapts the input of the box to the steering shaft on the vehicle. The box has the fast ratio, the second-stiffest torsion bar, and pitman-shaft travel angle suitable for an A-body. They practically gave 'em away at the Treasure Yard. The single fly in that ointment is that you need to adapt your PS hoses to the newer, metric (16x1.5 and 18x1.5) /O-ring machining of the Jeep gear box. Easily done via a variety of methods. Including fluid, hose adaption, and the rag joint, you could have the Jeep box installed and working in your A-body for under $200, maybe under $100.

Adding the higher-pressure relief valve from a '70 or later power steering pump is probably a good idea, for '69 and earlier vehicles.

https://www.chevelles.com/threads/fa...grade.1131928/

[Half-Inch Stud]

Originally Posted by Lifetime Goat

So when you say 69-81 do you mean the 14:1 ratio box?

I mean the 2.8 turns lock-to-lock box.


@Schurkey, " 40 acres to make a U-turn.". OMG LOL, gotta pee

[Schurkey]

Originally Posted by Half-Inch Stud

I mean the 2.8 turns lock-to-lock box.


@Schurkey, " 40 acres to make a U-turn.". OMG LOL, gotta pee

Be REALLY CAREFUL when selecting a steering box based on "turns lock-to-lock".

As I found out, "turns lock-to-lock" means NOTHING unless you're also comparing it to the pitman arm angular travel.

The 64--72 A-body needs nearly 45 degrees of Pitman arm swing. Many, if not most other gearboxes are limited to ~35 degrees of swing. So, sure, they have great "lock to lock" numbers, but the vehicle doesn't turn very sharply.

Thus the "40 acres".

One steering stop is the end cover of the box. Easily changed. The other steering stop is deep inside, the whole box has to be gutted to get the right one in place.

Oh, yeah. One more thing. If you think you're gonna be clever, and just get a parts-store rebuilt box for a Jeep Grand Cherokee, and you think you'll get all the good parts in a freshly-built box with a warranty...think again. The companies that rebuild steering boxes DO NOT guarantee that the internal parts will be "correct" for the application. You may--or may not--get the fast ratio, the second-stiffest torsion bar. You might end up with some random fast ratio, or whatever torsion bar is closest to the guy doing the work at the time.

Thus my preference for getting a "good used" box directly from the Treasure Yard, rather than buying a rebuilt Jeep box from the local parts house, or Amazon, or eBay, or whatever.

[64speed]

I can’t believe no one mentioned Borgeson. Cheaper than a lot of these rebuilds, brand new, 3 year warranty and modern guts for a more modern drive feel.

[jonmachota78]

Sorry if it has already been mentioned but the steering shaft has a U-joint in it that wears out I had to replace mine it had a lot of slop

[1968GTO421]

Originally Posted by 64speed

https://www.borgeson.com/Borgeson-St...7-1-Ratio.html

Borgeson site says this:

"Steering box includes adapters to be able to use either O-ring or flare style hose connections."

What did you do for your 64's PS pump?
Thanks.

[64speed]

Just a stock Saginaw pump

[NeighborsComplaint]

I did the Jeep Grand Cherokee box conversion when it was a thing. Bought a remanufactured box from Autozone and am very happy with the feel and the ratio. Not twitchy (good ratio) and feel. It makes my '71 GTO feel very similar to the 3rd Gen Z28 my son had. No leaks on mine, but I can't speak for today's cores.

The $1,200-$2,000 they get for specialty boxes seems crazy to me for an occasional use car but to each his own.

[64speed]

Originally Posted by NeighborsComplaint

I did the Jeep Grand Cherokee box conversion when it was a thing. Bought a remanufactured box from Autozone and am very happy with the feel and the ratio. Not twitchy (good ratio) and feel. It makes my '71 GTO feel very similar to the 3rd Gen Z28 my son had. No leaks on mine, but I can't speak for today's cores.

The $1,200-$2,000 they get for specialty boxes seems crazy to me for an occasional use car but to each his own.

That’s why I went with the Borgeson. At the time I bought mine it was 400 something but now it’s a little over 5

[Lifetime Goat]

I was happy in 1979 because at the time my other car was not an Audi Q8, plus beer sort of made everything sloppy. All kidding aside we never drove at the speeds on a regular basis that people drive at today. When I have the Goat on the highway cruising at 70 I am getting passed by scores of little cars being driven by nurses to youngsters who are texting at the same time. Just would like the feel to be a lot tighter at speed if I can.

[OCMDGTO]

Originally Posted by 1968GTO421

Borgeson site says this:

"Steering box includes adapters to be able to use either O-ring or flare style hose connections."

What did you do for your 64's PS pump?
Thanks.

I recently put a Borgeson sourced from Ames in my car. You can use a stock pump and hoses but will need to use the small rings they supply that go into the box at the hose threads. Mine works fine, no leaks. Only complaint is it spits fluid out of the vented cap hole and perimeter of the cap. I need to try a different cap to hopefully solve this problem.

[mgarblik]

[QUOTE=OCMDGTO;6382444]I recently put a Borgeson sourced from Ames in my car. You can use a stock pump and hoses but will need to use the small rings they supply that go into the box at the hose threads. Mine works fine, no leaks. Only complaint is it spits fluid out of the vented cap hole and perimeter of the cap. I need to try a different cap to hopefully solve this problem.[/QUO