[tom s]

I already put you down for one Jeff!Tom

[JSuchma]

Thanks, Tom

[Tom63LeMans]

Tom,
Please add me to the list for a 65+ manifold. I sent you a PM.
Thanks,
Tom

[tom s]

I put you down and replied to your PM.Tom

[tom s]

Bart,the intake we scanned had the counter sunk bolts so when it got scanned this is what we end up with.My Zajack-Johnson has the 1/4 bolts non sunk.These will be counter sunk and the change number will be dif.Early will be change 9 as I remember and the late will be change 10.Tom

[JSuchma]

If you don't like the counter sunk situation, just use a longer bolt and washer to cover it up. Won't look exact, but a casual glance won't know the difference. Heck, as we all know, the originals were not made for 65 and up heads either. The hard part is done, so thanks to everyone involved! Just do what you have to do to make it work for your specific need. This ride has been amazing so far. The next intake in line should be the D19088 RAV tunnel ram. Hello Tom

[61-63]

I don't like it either but it is easy to fix just turn some aluminum sleeves down and insert them in the counter sunk holes and then run hex bolts through them. I want the intakes I ordered anyway.

[beemergary]

Originally Posted by 61-63

I don't like it either but it is easy to fix just turn some aluminum sleeves down and insert them in the counter sunk holes and then run hex bolts through them. I want the intakes I ordered anyway.

You beat me to above post. I'll probably do the hex bolts but then again to be honest its a reproduction and the many mopar and few ford and chebby guys ain't goinna know the difference. If there's a machine change I am in but if not carry on guys.

[tom s]

NFW Jeff!One of these in a lifetime is enough for me.Sounds like a good project for you!John might be able to not counter sink the holes on a special order basis.Send him a PM.Tom

[JSuchma]

Maybe he should get a count of who doesn't want the holes counter sunk.

[tempest1964]

On a CNC machine it would be a very easy fix. After spot drilling and then drilling the thru hole for the bolts John would just have to skip the counter bore tool in the program. As Tom said, just contact John. Should be easy peasy.

[JSchmitz]

Originally Posted by tempest1964

On a CNC machine it would be a very easy fix. After spot drilling and then drilling the thru hole for the bolts John would just have to skip the counter bore tool in the program. As Tom said, just contact John. Should be easy peasy.

It's counterbore. NOT countersink. One guy knows the difference. ^^^

Easy fix as already stated. Either by skipping CNC steps or by making some sleeves, etc.

[JSchmitz]

If you had them skip the counterbores, it's easy to add them later using a piloted counterboring tool, vertical mill, etc.

[sdbob]

Tom I'll trust your judgement and experience. All I want for Christmas 2022 is ....

[mgarblik]

Originally Posted by JSchmitz

If you had them skip the counterbores, it's easy to add them later using a piloted counterboring tool, vertical mill, etc.

That's the same tooling I use on the aluminum heads destined for race engines. That tooling can cut a nice counterbore for step washers that eliminate crushing the aluminum around the head studs. Not needed of course in this application with the light clamp load. The manifold top looks great. Just can't wait for the finished product. Personally, I don't care how you finish the fastener attachment area. I can make it look the way I want after the fact. Question though: Could some of the SD guys chime in concerning painting these manifolds or leaving them as=cast aluminum? What did most people do back in the day these were raced? I have many pics of the bathtubs. Some painted, some raw aluminum. Not sure what would look best, most correct? My engine will be almost all blue. Blue SD style valve covers with stacks. No chrome. Thanks for the input.

[61-63]

Originally Posted by mgarblik

That's the same tooling I use on the aluminum heads destined for race engines. That tooling can cut a nice counterbore for step washers that eliminate crushing the aluminum around the head studs. Not needed of course in this application with the light clamp load. The manifold top looks great. Just can't wait for the finished product. Personally, I don't care how you finish the fastener attachment area. I can make it look the way I want after the fact. Question though: Could some of the SD guys chime in concerning painting these manifolds or leaving them as=cast aluminum? What did most people do back in the day these were raced? I have many pics of the bathtubs. Some painted, some raw aluminum. Not sure what would look best, most correct? My engine will be almost all blue. Blue SD style valve covers with stacks. No chrome. Thanks for the input.

Mike like you I have lots of pictures of bathubs plus have restored two real ones plus have handled ?? 50-60 54299/91 and 9770859 inline intakes. Both bathtubs and more than 90% of the inlines were as cast aluminum with no evidence of paint ever having been on them. IMO they look best as bare aluminum. That is just me.

[tom s]

Jeff,the program is set up in the machine.My vote is to leave as it was intended from the scan of the Bill Blair intake and IF John wants to do special orders thats up to him.Tom

[JSuchma]

Gotcha!!!!!

[tempest1964]

I’ve been a CNC machinist for 42 years. It is no big deal to skip a tool. It does not require changing the program.

[tom s]

Guys,the reason we counter sunk is because of after a ton of hours trying to figure out how to fit the intake under a hood without cutting the hood I found I had to put a short spacer under the rear carb to clear the intake bolt.Also had to use 5in top AFBs and marine air cleaners with 1/4 cut off to fit under the hood of a 62 GP.Unless you want to put the intake on a bench and admire it I would suggest you get a intake with counter sunk bolts.I have a pic of the problem but cant seem to post pics from my phone anymore.I cant text the pic to someone to try to post it for me.Send me a text to 5622430570.tom