[necdb3]

I wish I had a camera when I was driving my 72 T/A the odometer read 727272. I do find it amazing how many times I look down at the odometer when a recordable sequence is displayed.

[muscle_collector]

ok nice to be weird with other weirdos lol I stopped in the middle of the road and took these back in 2011 it was my 2008 F450
sorry the first one is so blurry I saw it coming and before I could stop in the middle of the road I tried to snap it. it is 99999.9 but I did stop traffic and took the 100k one. hey who cares how mad anyone got at me, it only happens once per vehicle.

[6 Grrrs]

Originally Posted by njsteve

LOL. My wife doesn't get it either. When my 1995 K2500 Diesel Suburban (that I bought new) was about to roll over the 100K mark I parked it in the driveway at 99,998 so I could go in the house to get a camera. I come out and the truck is gone because my wife took it shopping. She comes home and it then read 100,025. GRRRRR.

I had to wait until it hit this number before I could be happy again:


(P.S. I assume you saw this thread too? http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...gramma&page=11

I also took a photo of my 1996 K2500 as well at 123456 and 7/10ths. I have taken so many photos of odometers over the years, my wife thinks I'm crazy too.

[The Boss]

You're not alone - not really sure why I took this one of my 2007 Tacoma.

[The Boss]

Originally Posted by muscle_collector

ok nice to be weird with other weirdos lol I stopped in the middle of the road and took these back in 2011 it was my 2008 F450
sorry the first one is so blurry I saw it coming and before I could stop in the middle of the road I tried to snap it. it is 99999.9 but I did stop traffic and took the 100k one. hey who cares how mad anyone got at me, it only happens once per vehicle.

The ones I find more interesting are the rear view mirror pictures you send me!

[johnta1]

Is that Goat tailgaiting too close?

[necdb3]

How many times have you guys looked at your digital clock and had it read 455? I always get a kick out of that. It never gets old. I guess that's the same sickness. I don't know what makes me look at the clock at that time.

[OVERULD]

I'm in the club too. I like this one from my 2015 Corvette on the assembly line!



BJ

[njsteve]

Since we are looking to get the car judged in the Vintage Certification next year I figured it was time to put the original brake parts back on.

When I got the car, the master cylinder was leaking internally and I sent it off to Whitepost Restorations to be sleeved and rebuilt. They offer a "survivor" service where they don't touch the external finish if you alert them beforehand. They did a wonderful job on the master cylinder which then led to me find out that the two rear wheel cylinders were leaking/stuck in the expanded position. Not a good thing if you want working brakes.

http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...=736345&page=9

Just as a quick fix to get the braking system fully operable last year, I bought some new brake cylinders and swapped out all the shoes, springs, and the offending cylinders with the idea that they were only going to be temporary while I cleaned the original parts and sent the original cylinders to Whitepost. After a year or so...I finally sent the cylinders off just last week. Within two days I had them back all pretty and nice. They do really nice work with a quick turnaround.

One interesting thing I noticed is that they are the same part number but slightly different castings since one has the "7/8" straight across and the other has it angled. Also the bleeder screws are slightly different as well.

Here is what they looked like in their leaky state:











And when I got them back:

[njsteve]

I took all the original springs and soaked them in some detergent to get the adbestos dust off them and also scrubbed the original brake shoes as well. I then reinstalled everything today and bled the brakes.

One interesting thing to note about the assembly line installed shoes is how the bonded front shoe is grooved with a 1/2" slot down the center of the lining. The steel portion of the shoe appears to have a green zinc chromate finish on it. (it is kind of hard to tell from the photo since I used a flash when taking the photos).










And with the drums back on. Each drum had two copper Tinnerman clips holding the drum onto the studs. The passenger side drum also had a "GY" sticker on it.





It also looks like the brake drums are date coded "6 2 73" and "5 30 73".

[Pepi]

Steve,

Is that some sort of cover over the ported vacuum switch, and what is on the wire for the idle solenoid? I know they show an extension wire for the solenoid, but that almost looks like a scotch-lock, and it looks painted.

Just curious.

Thanks,
Karl

[Pepi]

Originally Posted by njsteve

I took all the original springs and soaked them in some detergent to get the adbestos dust off them and also scrubbed the original brake shoes as well. I then reinstalled everything today and bled the brakes.

One interesting thing to note about the assembly line installed shoes is how the bonded front shoe is grooved with a 1/2" slot down the center of the lining. The steel portion of the shoe appears to have a green zinc chromate finish on it. (it is kind of hard to tell from the photo since I used a flash when taking the photos).










And with the drums back on. Each drum had two copper Tinnerman clips holding the drum onto the studs. The passenger side drum also had a "GY" sticker on it.





It also looks like the brake drums are date coded "6 2 73" and "5 30 73".

Steve, definitely cool to see such an original car. It has been a while since I've looked at any of my brake pads, but do remember seeing a groove like that on the pads and on the front rotors.

[njsteve]

Originally Posted by Pepi

Steve,

Is that some sort of cover over the ported vacuum switch, and what is on the wire for the idle solenoid? I know they show an extension wire for the solenoid, but that almost looks like a scotch-lock, and it looks painted.

Just curious.

Thanks,
Karl

Those photos were taken the first day I got the car home. That blue plastic scotch-lock connector was the first thing to go. I remember Enrico saying he had an underhood oil pressure gauge mounted, back in 1973 so maybe that was for the gauge's internal lighting? There isn't any shroud on the emission valve. I think it's an optical illusion in that photo, of the black terminal on the idle solenoid in front of it. The valve has black plastic body.

Here is a photo taken that same day as the photo in your posting. The emissions valve is visible. There were no hoses connectedd it to as the third owner was trying to diagnose a carb problem that he thought was in the original carb - it wasn't. It was actually due to having the TCS hoses connected correctly and then having them kill the vaccuum advance.

I make it a habit of connecting the distributor to the manifold vacuum and tuning the car in that state. The performance difference is quite noticeable. Remember that the factory TCS system was designed simply to give a good tailpipe emissions reading and the emissions police couldn't have cared less about how badly it affected the engine performance.

I hook up the hoses in their factory position but with a BB or ball bearing in specific hoses to rearrange the actual vaccum signal to go to the distributor directly.

[Pepi]

Originally Posted by njsteve

Those photos were taken the first day I got the car home. That blue plastic scotch-lock connector was the first thing to go. I remember Enrico saying he had an underhood oil pressure gauge mounted, back in 1973 so maybe that was for the gauge's internal lighting? There isn't any shroud on the emission valve. I think it's an optical illusion in that photo, of the black terminal on the idle solenoid in front of it. The valve has black plastic body.

Here is a photo taken that same day as the photo in your posting. The emissions valve is visible. There were no hoses connectedd it to as the third owner was trying to diagnose a carb problem that he thought was in the original carb - it wasn't. It was actually due to having the TCS hoses connected correctly and then having them kill the vaccuum advance.

I make it a habit of connecting the distributor to the manifold vacuum and tuning the car in that state. The performance difference is quite noticeable. Remember that the factory TCS system was designed simply to give a good tailpipe emissions reading and the emissions police couldn't have cared less about how badly it affected the engine performance.

I hook up the hoses in their factory position but with a BB or ball bearing in specific hoses to rearrange the actual vaccum signal to go to the distributor directly.

Ah, that is a better picture and I do see everything I thought. That is a different ported vacuum switch than I have seen. Mine and any spares I have look like your EGR ported Vacuum Switch.

I think I'll have to try the BB trick on mine so it looks like everything is piped correctly.

[njsteve]

Today I put the original front brake pads back in. The originals are riveted. The front rotors have a really deep factory depth groove that left a matching peak in the pad. Disc has date code of "G 7 3" (July 7, 1973) FYI: the car was shipped on July 19, 1973.

(BTW, the car doesn't stop nearly as quickly now with the original brake pads and shoes as it did with modern braking materials. )

Driver's side:









Passenger side. Disc has date code of "G 9 3".

[njsteve]

Since it was a record 70 degrees here today, after working on the cars and cleaning the garage, I decided to get a photo of our two

[Held for Ransom]

Originally Posted by njsteve

Today I put the original front brake pads back in. The originals are riveted. The front rotors have a really deep factory depth groove that left a matching peak in the pad. Disc has date code of "G 7 3" (July 7, 1973) FYI: the car was shipped on July 19, 1973.

Driver's side:

But the assembled date stamp looks like it might have been 1937 as in a Julian date of July 12, '73 (or maybe incorrectly set up and should be 1973, July 16, '73).

[The Boss]

Great pics with the two cars!

[njsteve]

Originally Posted by Held for Ransom

But the assembled date stamp looks like it might have been 1937 as in a Julian date of July 12, '73 (or maybe incorrectly set up and should be 1973, July 16, '73).

Wow you have good eyes! I can barely see that stamp. But it looks like right-side-up 125 and a 4th digit I can't read. And who knows if I am even reading the G73 correctly as a casting date?

[Held for Ransom]

No, G 7 3 is the casting date. Then the machining is done and the the knuckle is added for a sub-assembly waiting to placed on the car at assembly. Other side should be stamped also.