[niceta]

Hey Steve I was going to do the same to my trim. would clear coating the trim prevent it from tarnishing or is that what the Boeshield metal protectant is?. It may turn yellow after a few years but should keep it shiny for a couple anyway?

Thanks RA111 for the measurments on the end caps

[njsteve]

The Boeshield is a wax-like protectant that soaks into the metal. It was used by NASA to protect bare metal parts in aviation applications. It can be removed with mineral spirits. It is not a paint and won't yellow. You simply reapply it by spraying it on a cloth and wiping the part down again.

[Brewster]

Steve, how long does last ? say if you had a bare metal sway bar and want to prevent rust? also does it leave a gloss or wet look?
Thanks

[njsteve]

I sprayed it on my bare metal drivesahft a year ago and it is still bright metal today. It doesnt really change the look at all, i.e. glossy or flat.

[70RAlll]

njsteve-where did you get this Boeshield product??I would relly like to try it myself on some bare metal areas...thnaks for the information.......

[Lloyd-TX]

Originally Posted by 70RAlll

njsteve-where did you get this Boeshield product??I would relly like to try it myself on some bare metal areas...thnaks for the information.......

Here you go . . .

http://www.boeshield.com/

[cdoggy81]

$300-$400 per front/rear or $800 for a set, YOUCH... There has to be another company to do this cheaper

[njsteve]

The body is finally at the body shop. I dropped it off last Saturday. He started on the paint and bondo removal to see what was underneath. I think we will now retitle this thread: "The Return of the Bonnie and Clyde Car." Take a look at the dent puller/bondo worm holes. I lost count at 167 on the driver's quarter.

Looks like she's gonna need a bunch of hours of metal massaging. No panel replacement plans since it is so rust free, just a whole lotta torch, hammer and dolly work in the future.

Look at photos 2 and 3. Looks like an old "Lite Brite"

[njsteve]

Here's the driver's rear quarter. Very nice shape, no rust whatsoever:

[njsteve]

Driver's and Passenger's side front door jamb/cowl area:

[njsteve]

A little less serious dent puller/bondo worm infestation on the passenger side quarter. There is a small rust area at the bottom of the quarter that we knew was there to begin with:

[njsteve]

The rear valance. This is an extremely rust-prone area on the 70 to 73 Firebirds. No patch panels are available. This one is completely rust free, just dented in below the bumper line and in need of un-denting. The upper area is supposed to look this way (the fiberglass tail panel and tail lights cover all of the area from quarter edge to quarter edge.) The only visible part is the lower valance area with the dent puller holes in it.

[blue71ta]

Wow, looks like some nice sheet metal! Other than the Lite Brite area of course, but I've seen MUCH worse here in the rust belt (WI). Hopefully the body man has strict instructions to keep all of your handy work clean on the bottom side of the car?

[FirehawkTA]

What method was used to remove the paint and bondo?

[njsteve]

They used a whole lotta sanding!

[x-bird2]

i've got a matching driver's side fender if you'd like it. matter of fact, it may have been from your car seeing how liberal they were with the drill and puller. it had 70-some holes from the nose to the wheel opening alone.

[keith k]

Originally Posted by njsteve

The body is finally at the body shop. I dropped it off last Saturday. He started on the paint and bondo removal to see what was underneath. I think we will now retitle this thread: "The Return of the Bonnie and Clyde Car." Take a look at the dent puller/bondo worm holes. I lost count at 167 on the driver's quarter.

Looks like she's gonna need a bunch of hours of metal massaging. No panel replacement plans since it is so rust free, just a whole lotta torch, hammer and dolly work in the future.

Look at photos 2 and 3. Looks like an old "Lite Brite"

Steve, wow... that's pretty bad.

I would think it might be easier to just cut out the tortured section and butt-weld in a new piece. You could get the metal you need from any '70 - '81 quarter since the damaged area doesn't extend into the areas that were different amongst the years.

[njsteve]

The bodyman sent me an email today that was titled "ready for primer". For a second there I thought he had all the bodywork finished already!

[RicksGTO]

Steve, I've been following your posts closely and am trying to decide what to do and not do before paint on mine. If I'm looking at it right, yours went to the shop with the underbody, rear end and front sub-frame and suspension/core support all finished and in place? Looks like also the motor is in there and you had most of the interior out of the car? That is about the way I am trying to have mine (minus engine) before I drop it off and just wondered if that worked out well for both him and you and if he was comfortable he could keep all the detail work you have done from getting overspray, etc? Looks like he is really making good progress on yours, very glad for you that it's going good again as I know he had some dead time in there for a while. Thanks for all the posts, they have helped me a lot on my car, can't wait to see yours finished in all it's McGuyver-like glory!

[njsteve]

Right, it is a fully running car with the drivetrain intact. He knows to mask off everything and hopefully the overspray will be minimal. The entire interior is out of the car except for the dash.

I was thinking about buying one of the repro quarters just for patch panel usage on the driver's side major "Lite Brite" area. Does anyone know someone closer that has them in stock. Classic Industires has them for $139 (plus $200 freight shipping of course.) That's just ridiculous. If there was a closer dealer, I would pick them up in person. Or does anyone have a rust free body and a sawzall???

Here are the latest primer photos: