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#1
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I tried a 1/2 nut last night was too big, 7 /16 ?
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Darby 74 Grandville 2Dr 455 c.i 4550# 2011 1.60 60 ft,[email protected]@117.74 2017, 74 firebird -3600 lbs (all bests) 1.33 60 ft, [email protected] [email protected] M/T 275/60 ET SS Drag Radial 2024(Pontiac 505) 1.25 60 ft, [email protected], [email protected].... 275/60 Radial Pro's |
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#2
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I think we are talking about different things. im using a 1/2 bolt for my custom mount seen in the pic..
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Vic in SoCal. Follow me on Instagram- Cloud9orbust 66 GTO clone, 467 cubic inches of Turbocharged Multiport Fuel Injected fury twisting a TH400 into 3.90's wrapped in a 12 bolt posi. ![]() My T56 Install My Turbo Build My Vortech Supercharger Build Hyd Throw out bearing Misc Build Pics May the Karma Gods meet you half way.... |
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#3
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Like this??
I welded a 5/16" bolt to the underside of the tab. Without the bolt, I dont see how the tab does anything? More importantly, will this work?
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I could explain all this to the girl at the parts store, but she'd probably call the asylum. White '67 LeMans 407/TH350/Ford 3.89... RIP Red '67 LeMans. 407/TH400/Ford 3.25 |
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#4
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I don't think the tab does anything, unless the rubber fails. Then it is a safety.
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#5
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Couple of thoughts. For the dragstrip, I would prefer the turnbuckle because of its ability to prevent engine movement - the less stuff squirming around, the better. On the street, I would go with the chain (or preferably cable) and maintain about a 1/4" slack to prevent transmission of engine vibration to the frame, to the steering shaft, and finally to the steering wheel. This will allow the engine mount to do its job of isolating vibration, and also put a specific limit on engine lift. Only time you want the chain tight is under acceleration. If I felt any vibration at idle or normal cruise, then I would add just a bit more slack.
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Mick Batson 1967 original owner Tyro Blue/black top 4-speed HO GTO with all the original parts stored safely away -- 1965 Catalina Safari Wagon. |
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