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#41
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I used a large C-clamp to hold the sides tight around the spring stack and then a small hammer to get the bends on the top and tabs tight. Also used a C-clamp on the leaf stack right next to the clips to keep the leafs fairly tight.
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'72 Formula 455HO TH400, Revere Silver, black deluxe '74 Trans Am SD 4 speed, Admiralty Blue, blue deluxe |
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#42
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Well then, out come the C-clamps. . thanks for the input Rick.
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71 Starlight Black Formula 455 L75 88 Flame Red Metallic GTA Notchback |
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#43
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These are avalible as of RIGHT NOW......Very limited send me a pm
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#44
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How much?
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#45
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send me a pm....
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#46
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Hi Craig,
PM sent, I will take a set! Thanks, Steve |
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#47
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C Clamps, a screw driver to tweak the tip into the opening and then hammer her home.
Great product. Thanks CRAIG!
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http://www.starspangledbannerchallenge.com/ |
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#48
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PM sent.
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#49
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#50
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These are top notch. It would be crazy to try and use old ones with these available.
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Brad Pringle Wellston, Michigan 1973 SD 455 TA Auto 1974 SD455 TA 4 Spd |
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#51
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I have had nothing but GREAT feedback on these spring clamps from Firebird and Camaro people. Member Bob Chumley sent me the original clamps I used as a sample. As normal I reproduced them to the exact dimensions as his originals. Has anyone who has installed these had any issues with them? Member Functional Shaker is having a difficult time with his. I really don't know how to help him other than offering him a refund upon the return of the product and advising him to buy the unbent ones from Eaton Spring. I always guarantee everything I do 100% so any advice that can be offered to Functional Shaker on these would be appreciated. Thanks
FunctionalShaker, please post your pictures Last edited by Norwood; 11-09-2014 at 11:33 PM. |
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#52
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If you can't identify issues, problems can't be solved.
This forum is a good place to begin that process...
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Mike/Illinois |
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#53
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Quote:
Functionalshaker, feel free to give me a call to discuss installation techniques that will yield exceptional results. I'll be glad to give you my insights. 210-326-6503 Pictures include a detailed set of springs and how the spring clips look on a concours restored TA.
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http://www.starspangledbannerchallenge.com/ Last edited by 165th; 11-10-2014 at 08:55 AM. |
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#54
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I was discussing this issue privately with Craig, but since it's gone public, here are some pics of the problem I'm having.
The bend on the low (tab) side of the three leaf clamp lined up with the bottom of the top leaf, rather than the top, so when I bent it over, it pulled the tab out of alignment with the square hole. The sides and bottom are all snug. The leaves are fully compressed, despite the optical illusion. Clamp is in its original locations, which is actually slightly thinner than where 165ths clamp is in his side shot. Note: rather than go with the bare metal look, I duplicated the natural spring steel color (the blue/gray color steel has before it's blasted to the more silvery color) using three different colors. Correct, original style anti squeak pads also utilized. Last edited by FunctionalShaker; 11-10-2014 at 10:24 AM. |
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#55
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I have absolutely no experience installing these. Let the people who have installed them help you. If you can't get them to work I will refund your money and recommend the ones eaton sells as they have no bends in them and you can bend them where you need to. I see this as the best way to solve your problem.
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#56
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That's a honorable solution to a tough issue.
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Mike/Illinois |
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#57
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Quote:
My recollection is the originals do the same thing... Namely that the taper of the tab doesn't fully penetrate the square hole.... Boy is that hard to explain in type ![]() I'll try to upload some pictures of existing and repro clamps showing similar end conditions. The springs look great! What colors did you use? Good luck finishing them off.
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http://www.starspangledbannerchallenge.com/ |
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#58
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I'd try the second c-clamp.
Put it on the top (with the 'tongue' half) and bottom and squish it. The rubber pads may be a 'hair' thicker and causing the metal clamp to not be able to wrap around enough. Surely not that hard to try the extra c-clamp.
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John Wallace - johnta1 Pontiac Power RULES !!! www.wallaceracing.com Winner of Top Class at Pontiac Nationals, 2004 Cordova Winner of Quick 16 At Ames 2004 Pontiac Tripower Nats KRE's MR-1 - 1st 5 second Pontiac block ever! W.E.C moment "Every man has a right to his own opinion, but no man has a right to be wrong in his facts." "People demand freedom of speech to make up for the freedom of thought which they avoid." – Socrates |
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#59
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Well I hammered and I squished and I bent and I clamped and I managed to get a half tabbed job done. Here are pics of the almost finished springs (still have to stencil the part numbers on). Phew.
Now I have to find something to keep the clamps from rusting. Maybe cosmolene! To answer your question on what paints I used to restore -- actually these are new Eaton springs I corrected. I stripped off the black paint, gave them a mild media blast for paint adhesion, epoxy primed each leaf (black), reassembled the springs with the center bolt, then sprayed them first with Duplicolor's Storm Gray metallic, followed by an uneven coat of Duplicolor's Gun metal Metalic (lighter) and a "spot dusting" coat using Eastwood's zinc Phosphate. Hard to explain in print. I then installed the correct pads, followed by the clamps (where they were originally, although it doesn't seem they were too particular within about a 3-4 inch range). I reused the smallest leaves from my original springs because Eaton's are not cut the same and, although unseen when installed, these have the date stamps on them. (same curvature) I also reused the original center bolts as the head markings are different. The things we do for the sake of correctness. I think that covers it. Last edited by FunctionalShaker; 11-10-2014 at 01:01 PM. |
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#60
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With the various leaf spring finishes and clamps. The ones on my car look to be painted black. Do these clamps look original? Rubber gaskets look a bit smushed and it makes me think they have not been apart?
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Mike/Illinois |
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