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#41
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Yes, very nice work.And yes, the owner probably chose wisely to leave the nose as is, if all he wants to do is drive and enjoy his car and doesn't care about part numbers. Otherwise he would end up spending a ton of money chasing correct parts for a while.
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#42
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Moving forward just finished the top and bottom of the passenger side floor pan. It wasn't as bad as the drivers side but still needed to be replaced. Onto the trunk pan. Trying to figure out how to get that big trunk pan through that little trunk lid opening. What have you guys done?
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#43
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Yup, and 70 did not come with fender to core support brace.
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1970 T/A clone ![]() ![]() |
#44
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Trunk pan 90% done. a lot of work here. Just got some of the rear quarter off last night. Glad we are doing full quarters outers and drop offs the car really needed them.
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#45
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Nice work, looks really good.
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#46
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Been a long winter. Quarters are done along with a new tail pan. Driver quarter fit perfect real nice door to quarter gaps. The passenger quarter front of wheel was stamped a little off the body line is going down a little. The lower door gap is opened a little more than top. Nothing that can't be fixed. Over all very happy with the results.
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#47
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Is this the oval port manifold gasket? I don't think it is the D shaped gasket? I was told there was 2 head styles for 1970?
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#48
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So I started to disassemble for paint. The nose is 73 from the experts on the site. So they don't reproduce the grill inserts for a 73. Will the 70-72 grill inserts fit into a 73 rubber nose?
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#49
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Nice work on the quarters. Jmo since you are going all this nice work I would put a correct repo core support on the car. They are 300 shipped and they will fit great. Change the braces in the fenders and find a correct nose. A nose should be easy to find.
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#50
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If it was my car I would but its a customers I can only do what he wants. He wants a driver. I wish I could do a full frame off. But its not my call. I spent all last month under the car. New Fuel and brake lines, new exhaust, gas tank sending unit. All new rubber hoses and new shocks. I started it up to find the exhaust manifolds leaking. Both fenders need patches on the lower dog leg of fender. Its going to be nice when done. Its all starting to come together. I have the original hood release rod. But someone said 73 had a different hood release. Do they reproduce that?
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#51
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I don't think anyone reproduces the 73 only hood release parts. You can usually find someone on here selling the setup from time to time. 73 uses a weird "tongue" that comes out in the lower valance opening. It operates with a steel cable that runs up to the latch. Its a weird setup.
I did manage to mount 72 grills in my spare 73 nose. They actually looked pretty good and seemed to fit well. Its not too hard to find a good used pair of 73 grills. Make sure you get the "Pontiac" emblem with them. The emblem was a one year only deal also.
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"Those poor souls have made the fatal mistake of surrounding us. Now we can fire in any direction" 1970 Trans Am RAIII 4 speed 1971 Trans Am 5.3 LM7 1977 Trans Am W72 Y82 1987 Grand National |
#52
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72projectbird can I get a picture of the 72 grills in a 73?
All can I get a picture of the 70 hood latch location. I think I have the rod but would like to see how it comes out of the grill. Jason |
#53
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The round port gasket would have all the ports as being round. (4 individual ports) ![]()
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John Wallace - johnta1 Pontiac Power RULES !!! www.wallaceracing.com Winner of Top Class at Pontiac Nationals, 2004 Cordova Winner of Quick 16 At Ames 2004 Pontiac Tripower Nats KRE's MR-1 - 1st 5 second Pontiac block ever! "Every man has a right to his own opinion, but no man has a right to be wrong in his facts." "People demand freedom of speech to make up for the freedom of thought which they avoid." – Socrates |
#54
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thanks I figured it out last night. Any recommendations for gaskets OE metal or composite?
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#55
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Moving along on the TA. I have the front fenders hood doors and trunk lid all in epoxy primer and high build primer. I took the trim off around the windshield and found a rust hole. So the windshield had to come out. Only to revel 3 holes in a 10" area and 2 other smaller holes. I repaired the windshield area this weekend. Now it's time to sand the roof door jams and scuff the new quarters and then I will be ready for some epoxy and high build. Then re-assemble so I can block the car out for the first time.
Does anyone have the measurements for the 2 holes for the rear wheel flares. Or a trick in how you located the holes on new quarters? Jason |
#56
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Looking for a fender flare for the passenger side front. What years are the same
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#57
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1970-1978 will interchange
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#58
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Back half of the car is all in primer, epoxy then high build. I’m getting all the little pieces primed and ready for paint. I need to hang the doors and block the car out to make sure everything is straight. It’s getting there.
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#59
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Need a little guidance on front rubber nose. The nose had a lot of paint cracks. Well that's what I thought. I sanded it down with 180 and the rubber has all these hair line cracks in it. But I can't pull them apart? I can take pictures to show you. I have no deep tears or cracks just these fine cracks? It's kind of odd. Any insight or forum topic to read up on the endure bumper?
Jason |
#60
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Most likely just weathering from exposure via the cracks. If that's all the damage there is, you can prime it with a flexible primer and sand it smooth. All coatings over the endura will require a flex additive.
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