[adynes]

Racetronix is a good source for efi fuel pumps, lines and hardware. The website isn't always the easiest to find what you're looking for, but they have a lot of stuff and good prices. You could probably call or email them and they could set you up with what you need.

[STEELCITYFIREBIRD]

Based my comment off all the production car stuff I have seen Jason.
Zero experience with aftermarket assemblies.
I've changed out a lot of production pumps and assemblies. And repaired many nylon lines.
Ear clamps are what I have always seen/used, like the upper clamp on your assembly, with thin wall nylon tubing.

The worm gear clamp is what came with the pump?

Summit.... and Jegs more so, are great with warranting/returning defective/unneeded parts.

Your makin' (forward?) progress at any rate.

Lots of info on working with nylon fuel tubing on YOUWHOTUBE.

[JLMounce]

Originally Posted by STEELCITYFIREBIRD

Based my comment off all the production car stuff I have seen Jason.
Zero experience with aftermarket assemblies.
I've changed out a lot of production pumps and assemblies. And repaired many nylon lines.
Ear clamps are what I have always seen/used, like the upper clamp on your assembly, with thin wall nylon tubing.

The worm gear clamp is what came with the pump?

Summit.... and Jegs more so, are great with warranting/returning defective/unneeded parts.

Your makin' (forward?) progress at any rate.

Lots of info on working with nylon fuel tubing on YOUWHOTUBE.

Yes the worm gear clamps are part of those kits. You have to heat up the nylon tubes and press them on the pump outlet as well as the hat inlet/outlet.

[Squidward]

My assembly came with the pump tube already on the pump body with an ear clamp. Directions are to trim the discharge and return tubes to accommodate tank depth, and then install pump/sock. I'm guessing worm gear clamp was specified because most customers might not have access to ear clamp pliers. I don't think it was a clamp issue that broke mine. I think it was because the outlet nipple was plastic, and the outlet tube was pretty unflexible. Combine that with a small hole, and it must've snapped off somewhere in the process. They included 2 sock screens: One for use in a retrofit app, and one for use with a Tanks, Inc. tank. I used the retrofit, which is a fairly long "wet screen" style. It seemed pretty cool, and should allow a large area for fuel suckage. But it is large, and fitting it into the hole is a PITA. I might use the smaller "other" screen that is a more traditional filter screen, just to make sure I don't replicate the same result.


Summit is doing a return for me, which is why I throw lots of $$$ at those guys. Their customer support and commitment is top notch. The replacement isn't supposed to ship until 4/8, tho.

Once I get the pump I will see if the rest of the system is up to snuff. And dayum... submersible fuel hose is ex-pen-sive... $30 a foot!

[TCSGTO]

Don’t the Fitech throttle bodies have a built in pressure regulator? I didn’t think you needed one unless you remove the regulator from the TB.

[Mace1971]

You don’t need another regulator but what some people are doing is using one near the tank that has a return directly from the regulator. That means only running one line to the engine compartment instead of two.

[TedRamAirII]

The pump outlet, and the inlet pipe were not "inline" and over stressed the nipple. I would work on lining everything up as best you can before putting the line on. That plastic line is short and rigid, not much you can do about it. If it doesnt shake, it breaks. Good Luck.

[60 SHARK]

Yes,, 455TA IS CORRECT, run feed directly to throttle body, ( I also have FiTech ) don't re-engineer it, use it as designed, i love the simplicity, mine works great,,,,,,no need to redo what you already paid ,

[Squidward]

Originally Posted by 60 SHARK

Yes,, 455TA IS CORRECT, run feed directly to throttle body, ( I also have FiTech ) don't re-engineer it, use it as designed, i love the simplicity, mine works great,,,,,,no need to redo what you already paid ,

We'll see. Gonna try this. I want a single fuel line coming forward, thus keeping as much fuel as possible IN the tank, and minimizing the amount of fuel in transit between tank and throttle body. My fuel return line is less than 2 feet long, and stays in the back away from the heat.

[Tom Vaught]

I know that you found the Pump outlet Nipple broken so that is most likely your issue with the FITECH system.

This EFI Plumbing like from Summit has 4 plumbing systems. https://static.summitracing.com/glob.../tnk-afpr1.pdf

System #1
In this system you have the efi pump plumbed thru a "Combination Filter/Regulator" with the regulated fuel going forward to the fuel rails.
The issue here is not the "Combination Filter/Regulator" as with the fuel rails being in seried. (Feeds into the end of one fuel rail, out the opposite side, into the second fuel rail and them deadheads at the end of the fuel rail.
In this case the beginning point of the first fuel rail supplies the 1st injector on the fuel rail with the highest fuel pressure. The other fuel injectors see less fuel pressure as they move down that rail, each one robbing more fuel and lowering the fuel pressure to each injector in its flow path. Then the fuel crosses over to the next fuel rail. lower fuel pressure vs what the first injector "saw" now goes to each one of the other injectors with the last injector seeing the least fuel pressure and flow vs the 1st fuel injector.

System #2 (basically the same issues as system1).

System #3

This system is the best system of the 4 listed as far as plumbing to the injectors. Fuel enters both rails at the same time and exits on the opposite end and goes to the return regulator. Both rails see basically the same controlled fuel pressure but the injectors see much closer to the SAME fuel pressure in operation. Only way to make it slightly better is to feed the rails in the middle and have 4 return lines to the fuel pressure regulator. Most times not worth the effort and with individual injector control could be tuned for all to get the same actual fuel volume to the port.

The last system, #4 really sucks.

Fuel goes into a dual path fuel rail, feeds the injectors down the length of that rail, makes an abrupt 180 degree change in direction flows back down that rail, exits that rail and goes to the other fuel rail. Last injector is really screwed by the plumbing there.

Point being if you are turning on all of the injectors at the same time then the dury cycle could be the same but the fuel pressure will be different with each injector as well as actual fuel flow. Like putting a 82 jet in the first hole and a 80 jet in the second hole and a 78 jet in the 3rd hole and finally a 76 jet in the last hole on a set of metering blocks. Ok for driving around town but not ideal for high rpm blasts.

Tom V.

[JLMounce]

Based on Tom's information above, if you plumb the FiTech/Sniper with the feed line direct to the unit and utilizing the unit's built in regulator, with return line, it would be most closely analogous to system 3 detailed in the link provided.

The regulator is the last item in the flow line prior to fuel outlet and the return. It's my understanding that theoretically this should give all of the injectors equal to near equal pressure as the regulating factor is past all of the injectors in the flow direction.

It didn't occur to me until Tom's post that feeding the system with a "corvette" style system with the regulator in the back and a single feed line would create a holes along a hose situation. Utilizing a single plain intake with a common plenum would seemingly reduce the effects of this, but I could see where using any sort of divided plenum intake (dual plane etc.) could really hamper fuel distribution when the driver's side injectors are receiving more pressure and thus flow.

[Tom Vaught]

Correct, Sir!

Tom V.

[Squidward]

The fitech tb has fuel rails on left and right sides, each feeding 2 injectors. The regulator rides the right (ps) rail. There is a fuel rail crossover at both the front and back, which allows the fuel inlet to be attached at any of 3 corners. The return port is at the ps rear, and is the only corner that can't be used for a fuel inlet. I attach the inlet to the ps front corner, which means front right and front left injectors will immediately see full supply pressure. Since there are only 4 injectors, but 2 crossover lines, I think a pressure drop will be fairly negligible. But I could definitely see a possible issue if there were 8 injectors, and you had the end injectors feeling the effects of being the last in line of a series feed.

[Tom Vaught]

You are correct. The FITECH is plumbed much more like a Holley carb with TWO Transfer tubes to the rear bowl (vs ONE, (stock on the old 600 cfm holleys).

The OEMS learned their lessons on the V-8/V10/and V12 engines as far as supplying fuel correctly to the injectors.

I was just highlighting that the Summit info posted is correct (as far as how systems are plumbed) but what the issues were with those systems. Better vs not so good.

Same applies to the fuel feed to the rails/FITECH parts and good locations vs better locations for fuel pressure regulators.

Tom V.

[Squidward]

Originally Posted by Tom Vaught

You are correct. The FITECH is plumbed much more like a Holley carb with TWO Transfer tubes to the rear bowl (vs ONE, (stock on the old 600 cfm holleys).

The OEMS learned their lessons on the V-8/V10/and V12 engines as far as supplying fuel correctly to the injectors.

I was just highlighting that the Summit info posted is correct (as far as how systems are plumbed) but what the issues were with those systems. Better vs not so good.

Same applies to the fuel feed to the rails/FITECH parts and good locations vs better locations for fuel pressure regulators.

Tom V.

I definitely see where you are coming from.

Sounds like the FiTech engineers had picked up a few tricks along the way before they started this venture. This discussion today made me go out and take a deeper look how the whole thing was constructed. I also looked up some disassembled TB/injector pics on the web. Kind of a cool little piece of hardware. The curious kid in me wants to take it apart to see in detail how it works. The sensible grown up says don't risk flushing your $800 down the toilet because you are curious how it works.

[TedRamAirII]

So with Squids System, seems like you could just split your supply line at the injector unit and feed it from both sides? if that is even needed? I suppose not. That would be easier than re-plumbing the system with a return line. If its made like I think it is, there will be very little, if any "pressure drop" on the 4 injectors, or even 8 if used. Nevermind, carry on!

[Tom Vaught]

Originally Posted by TedRamAirII

So with Squids System, seems like you could just split your supply line at the injector unit and feed it from both sides? if that is even needed? I suppose not. That would be easier than re-plumbing the system with a return line. If its made like I think it is, there will be very little, if any "pressure drop" on the 4 injectors, or even 8 if used.

Agree, leave it alone. For that system it will work fine the way it is.

ALSO you are dumping in to a plenum, not a single runner so there is some "sharing" of fuel going on there too.

My post had info for the average guy considering EFI, not TBI, injection and why the ability to tune individual injectors becomes important with Single Runner intakes, Batch Fire injection systems (what you have) dumping into a plenum is a different story.

Tom V.

I like system #3 on high performance systems.

[FrankieT/A]

I would think deviating from how FITech outlines fuel connections at the actual TB wouldn't need to be contemplated until the system was close to reaching the horsepower/demand limits of the unit itself, no?

[Squidward]

The Bird breathes fire again.

I keep checking on Summit to see if my replacement pump has shipped. The estimated shipping date has changed almost every week, and is now out to somewhere in May. It won't stay comfortable outdoors here much longer, so I want to drive this thing.

I looked on the web for a comparable pump (255 lph) as an interim solution. I some cheap possibilities, and decided to get this until the FiTech pump shows up:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Whaddya know? It was a almost a total drop in exact fit. The quality was a little bit below what FiTech provides, but it included a MUCH more flexible outlet hose. The electrical connector was identical, and the length/width was the same. The inlet on the bottom was a slightly smaller diameter and didn't fit the FiTech provided suction screens, so I used the filter screen that came with the pump.

I dropped in the pump, and fired it right up. I had relocated the pressure gauge up forward so I could see pressure in the engine compartment. After a couple of tweaks to the regulator, I was at 58psi. No leaks.

I'm gonna ride this pump until it fails, and then I will have the FiTech pump by then as a backup.

Not bad for $18, huh? It has me back on the road.

[STEELCITYFIREBIRD]

Appears you got thicker wall hose or more appropriately sized clamps with it too.