[RAIV-Z]

Originally Posted by Tom Vaught

That is going to be another one of those A$z entry first, deals where you put your legs inside the cage first, bend over, kiss your a$z, then sit down in the seat types of things. Good thing Drag Racing does not have a rule like the SCCA where you have to be able to exit the vehicle in so many seconds.

Tom Vaught

I picked up a book on yoga. Now as for the "bending over and kissing", I do remember bending over, but I don’t recall being kissed.

[jdw_poncho]

If your steering wheel is removable I think you'll be ok. That car will be low enough that you should be able to step right in.

I angled my cage back just a touch and I cant remove my stock steering wheel. Im 280 and can pop right in. But I need the window down in the door to get out. I dont have anything to hang onto when I pull myself out.

The worst thing I had to overcome was turning the damn master switch on before I get in the car!

Looks good! But when its 100 degrees out you'll wish you had a 8.50 car with a swing out door bar!! LOL

[RAIV-Z]

Originally Posted by jdw_poncho

If your steering wheel is removable I think you'll be ok. That car will be low enough that you should be able to step right in.

I angled my cage back just a touch and I cant remove my stock steering wheel. Im 280 and can pop right in. But I need the window down in the door to get out. I dont have anything to hang onto when I pull myself out.

The worst thing I had to overcome was turning the damn master switch on before I get in the car!

Looks good! But when its 100 degrees out you'll wish you had a 8.50 car with a swing out door bar!! LOL

The steering wheel will be removable and I’m going to try to keep my weight under control. Can you get a wireless remote for the master switch?

[BruceWilkie]

Originally Posted by RAIV-Z

The steering wheel will be removable and I’m going to try to keep my weight under control. Can you get a wireless remote for the master switch?

A remote activation could be done with remote door lock solenoid(s) as long as its setup to allow the manual kill to work as intended.

[lemans411]

guys from around here run a morse style cable . push pull deal to run the switch from inside via a chute lever or similar. pretty trick my next car will have this. how many times do you crawl in the car and realize the switch is off... too many lol

[RAIV-Z]

Originally Posted by lemans411

guys from around here run a morse style cable . push pull deal to run the switch from inside via a chute lever or similar. pretty trick my next car will have this. how many times do you crawl in the car and realize the switch is off... too many lol

Mechanical sounds like the best way to go.
I wouldn’t want unintentional interference to cause flakey issues and I don’t think spectators would be willing to turn off their cell phone and other electronic devices once I close the door…

[lemans411]

Originally Posted by RAIV-Z

Mechanical sounds like the best way to go.
I wouldn’t want unintentional interference to cause flakey issues and I don’t think spectators would be willing to turn off their cell phone and other electronic devices once I close the door…

Yea pretty simple setup but works flawlessly.

[RAIV-Z]

What’s up with piston #2?

[RAIV-Z]

[mysticmissle]

How about a pic of the chambers. What's it look like to you (in person)?

[RAIV-Z]

Originally Posted by mysticmissle

How about a pic of the chambers. What's it look like to you (in person)?

Looks like casting porosity, then someone hit it with a grinder. I'll get a better picture of that one chamber. The combustion chamber does look ok though.

[mysticmissle]

Porosity in the piston? Highly unlikely it's definately a forging. Does it line up with spark plug hole? Looks like effects of a piston stop from degreeing cam. Not sure why other side would have sanding marks. Is that what it is?

[Tom Vaught]

"Casting Porosity" on a Forged Piston? I do not think that should be the case with any quality Forged Piston. I guarantee that you would not see that deal on a CP Forged Piston.

Tom Vaught

[RAIV-Z]

Originally Posted by mysticmissle

Porosity in the piston? Highly unlikely it's definately a forging. Does it line up with spark plug hole? Looks like effects of a piston stop from degreeing cam. Not sure why other side would have sanding marks. Is that what it is?

My mistake, I think you're right about the cause of the marks, not sure why there are 4 of them though. Those are sanding marks. I would have expected this done on #1, not #2.

[73 TRANSAM]

It looks like a piston stop mark but why would you use a set screw that is pointy to dig a hole in the piston two holes instead of one? You figure one is a Goof but two!To all the money you spent on that engine build, everything should be spotless. It looks like you are finding stuff that is usually fine turns out bad. I hope this is the last bad thing you will find on it. I would remove the rods, crank and inspect the bearings if I were you. I would strip that block and inspect everything before putting it in your car. Goodluck on your build, looking forward of a happy ending.

[RAIV-Z]

More disassembly pics.

[RAIV-Z]

...

[Tom Vaught]

Looks to me like the ARP L19 fastener does not sit flat on the connecting rod pad.

Diameter of the fastener is larger vs the rod pad surface diameter.

Tom Vaught

[RAIV-Z]

Originally Posted by Tom Vaught

Looks to me like the ARP L19 fastener does not sit flat on the connecting rod pad.

Diameter of the fastener is larger vs the rod pad surface diameter.

Tom Vaught

All the rod bolts looked ok, that might just be the angle of the picture. All the rod bearing look great to.

[Tom Vaught]

Camera Angle deal, looked like the bolts were touching the pocket closest to the beam of the rod.

Tom Vaught