[johnta1]

What rods are those?
Is that cap all the way down?
(tight?)

[RAIV-Z]

Originally Posted by johnta1

What rods are those?
Is that cap all the way down?
(tight?)

They are callies ultra. The caps were all tight.

Here is a better picture. The other one was a little dark.

[Tom Vaught]

I looked at the better picture, How much side clearance do you have with the rods right now? Put a feeler gage between the 2 caps and give me a number, please.

Tom Vaught

[RAIV-Z]

Originally Posted by Tom Vaught

I looked at the better picture, How much side clearance do you have with the rods right now? Put a feeler gage between the 2 caps and give me a number, please.

Tom Vaught

All rod clearances matched the build sheet .018 to .020.

Hint: The front of the engine is to the right.

[Travis Q]

#2 rod's in the #1 hole.

[johnta1]

Was the piston installed with the correct orientation to be #1?

[RAIV-Z]

Originally Posted by Travis Q

#2 rod's in the #1 hole.

You got it.

1,2,3, and 4 were in the wrong holes.

5-6-7-8 were correct.

[rodneybutler]

I see a few engines come through the shop labeled that way done by chevy builders. Label the front rod as no 1. It shouldn't matter if they are all the same size.

[RAIV-Z]

Originally Posted by rodneybutler

I see a few engines come through the shop labeled that way done by chevy builders. Label the front rod as no 1. It shouldn't matter if they are all the same size.

I would have expected if the first 4 banks were swapped the last 4 would have been as well.

[Tom Vaught]

If we go thru each rod, step by step, Ed.

On a Chebby the Front Cylinder on the driver's side bank is closest to the front bumper of the car (or Crank Snout/Balancer for reference point). This cylinder is called #1

On a Pontiac, the Front Cylinder on the passenger side bank is closest to the front bumper of the car (or Crank Snout/Balancer for reference point). Pontiac guys call this cylinder #2 but the rod closest to the snout/balancer is normally called the #1 cylinder.
Pontiac followed the spark plug wiring cylinder numbering but not the actual front most cylinder "naming convention".

So the guy initially numbered the rods and installed them like a Chebby.

Big Chamfer in the rod to the front on the #1 rod and Big Chamfer to the rear on the #2 Rod. So in order for the rods to be in the right spots for the chamfers on the Pontiac crank the Chebby #1 rod (Chamfer to the front) was moved to the Pontiac #2 cylinder. The #2 Chebby rod (chamfer to the rear) was moved to the Pontiac #1 cylinder.

So that takes care of the first two cylinders.

Same deal happens with the #3 and #4 Cylinders (they had to be swapped side for side to be in the right locations on the Pontiac crank (chamfer wise).

So about half way thru installing the rods and pistons apparently the guy noticed that the rods were not right and puts #6 & #8 in correctly and puts #5 & #7 in correctly in the block in relation to the chamfers on the crank and the rod location on the crank (front or rear position on each rod journal).

Hope that makes sense.

Tom Vaught

[RAIV-Z]

Originally Posted by Tom Vaught

If we go thru each rod, step by step, Ed.

On a Chebby the Front Cylinder on the driver's side bank is closest to the front bumper of the car (or Crank Snout/Balancer for reference point). This cylinder is called #1

On a Pontiac, the Front Cylinder on the passenger side bank is closest to the front bumper of the car (or Crank Snout/Balancer for reference point). Pontiac guys call this cylinder #2 but the rod closest to the snout/balancer is normally called the #1 cylinder.
Pontiac followed the spark plug wiring cylinder numbering but not the actual front most cylinder "naming convention".

So the guy initially numbered the rods and installed them like a Chebby.

Big Chamfer in the rod to the front on the #1 rod and Big Chamfer to the rear on the #2 Rod. So in order for the rods to be in the right spots for the chamfers on the Pontiac crank the Chebby #1 rod (Chamfer to the front) was moved to the Pontiac #2 cylinder. The #2 Chebby rod (chamfer to the rear) was moved to the Pontiac #1 cylinder.

So that takes care of the first two cylinders.

Same deal happens with the #3 and #4 Cylinders (they had to be swapped side for side to be in the right locations on the Pontiac crank (chamfer wise).

So about half way thru installing the rods and pistons apparently the guy noticed that the rods were not right and puts #6 & #8 in correctly and puts #5 & #7 in correctly in the block in relation to the chamfers on the crank and the rod location on the crank (front or rear position on each rod journal).

Hope that makes sense.

Tom Vaught

Makes sense, although I would have expected a little more attention to detail from a shop like BES regardless of what the engine cost to build. I’ve had a few milder engines built locally and have never run into issues like this. What makes issues like this look worse than what they might really be is when someone screws up and doesn’t mention anything. A simple note on the blueprint sheet indicating rods numbering/placement in the block would have sufficed.

[RAIV-Z]

Just curious to see if anyone else has had this done to their block and what the results were or if there are any other mods which should be considered while the engine is apart.

[blueghoast]

I have seen that done before, You have to drill some
holes in the slot of the bearings too to get any advantage
from the slot in the block under the bearing.

GT.

[rod cole]

The numbering is not a big deal as long as the wide chamfer faces the crank weight. But on another note WHOLE E BAT POOP that engine is a disgrace to even a rebuilder much less a race engine. You good sir deserve a award for not at least maming someone. Rod

[LiL Jack]

Originally Posted by RAIV-Z

Just curious to see if anyone else has had this done to their block and what the results were or if there are any other mods which should be considered while the engine is apart.

Mine are this way. Just not as deep as yours I would say.

[RAIV-Z]

Originally Posted by LiL Jack

Mine are this way. Just not as deep as yours I would say.

Did you modify the main bearings in any other way besides adding another oil hole?

[Tom Vaught]

I could see where this would be a great mod on a Supercharged Engine with a high belt load. I do not understand what value it would be on a turbo motor as the front main has very little extra load under boost vs a belt driven boosted device.

Tom Vaught

[RAIV-Z]

Originally Posted by Tom Vaught

I could see where this would be a great mod on a Supercharged Engine with a high belt load. I do not understand what value it would be on a turbo motor as the front main has very little extra load under boost vs a belt driven boosted device.

Tom Vaught

This mod was done to all the mains.

[RAIV-Z]

Originally Posted by LiL Jack

Mine are this way. Just not as deep as yours I would say.

Who performed the machine work on your block and did your main bearing look anything like this?
This engine has only had a few NA dyno pulls.

[Marty Palbykin]

[QUOTE=RAIV-Z;4842287]Just curious to see if anyone else has had this done to their block and what the results were or if there are any other mods which should be considered while the engine is apart.

My question would be why !!!!
If you have good pressure this has never be a problem in my experience.
This may be a good procedure but I do not think it is really necessary under 1600 hp.


Marty P.