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  #701  
Old 06-15-2005, 10:58 AM
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KEEP ON BUMPING!!!!!!!

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  #702  
Old 06-15-2005, 12:31 PM
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I have just read this post and am amazed and impressed with the understanding I can not get my own field to understand.

First off the pump in question is a centrifigul pump that can only create pressure drop. It will not pull anything not create positive displacement. This is why it is critical it work under pressere and in a filled sytem.

Coolant will enter the pump in the suction eye or the center of the impellor how ever you want to look at it. Coolant exits by being slapped by the vanes. The tollerance of the divider plate and the impellor will directly effect the efficiency of the pump.

I have worked in the pump industry for 15 years as the Representative for ITT Bell & Gossett and do have a little knowledge in the field. I usually deal with hospitols and institutions and did not even think to pass this knowledge on as I have adjusted the plates on all I have replaced.
Any questions I'll be glad to answer.
Russell Zangrilli
Thermoflo Equipment Co in.
[email protected]

Great observations gentlemen.

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  #703  
Old 06-15-2005, 12:36 PM
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Also keep in mind when diagnosing a hot running engine heat transfer is a formula based upon surface area of heat produced, flow of cooling media, and surface area of cooling source and temp of air or water used to cool. You already know you have to look at all. Flow is controlled by the thermostat, and your radiator is the exchanger. almost any reasonably tuned motor can be efficiently cooled. Look at all aspects.
Russ

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  #704  
Old 06-15-2005, 02:01 PM
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So, Russ, you're saying you want a piece of my $1.00 per success fee? NO WAY fella! I plan on retiring on that someday.......

BTW, thnx for your info.

George

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  #705  
Old 06-15-2005, 05:38 PM
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George,
You can retire on it and I'll buy us a round of beer.
Russ

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  #706  
Old 06-17-2005, 05:57 AM
69firebird455 69firebird455 is offline
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Russ,
Could the OEM style impeller be re-designed to flow better? Would you have to make the impeller diameter larger to gain flow? What else could be done to these pumps to improve flow?

  #707  
Old 06-21-2005, 05:26 AM
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Well a closed impeller as opposed to a open faced would always work better but you would have to midify the spacer plates to make this work. If the adjustments as George* (now you get credit) states are followed why redesign the wheel. Also keep in mind you do not want too much flow as the coolant will not spend enough time in the radiator to have heat transfer take place. As you increase flow you would have to increase surface area.

Ideally you want the motor to run around 180 degrees to be efficient. Not too hot or too cool just like porage.

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  #708  
Old 06-21-2005, 06:29 AM
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MR68 do you have any idea why some of the cast impella pumps have about 1-2 inches removed from the outer edge of the impella's? I've only seen this on pontiac water pumps. Did they decide they were too efficient and this was to raise the temp for the emission controlls to work better?

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  #709  
Old 06-21-2005, 07:07 AM
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Franklin,
That I do not know as not having the engineering data that was used, but I know as you lower the flow you raise the temperature differential so your conclusion holds water.

I did play with a cad drawing based on the pontiac impeller, making it a closed unit with a suction eye that would stick through the divider plate but it looks unfeasable. I think the open area for water flow is too tight.

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  #710  
Old 06-21-2005, 01:07 PM
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There seems to be some merit to this theory. I was lucky in that my stock 1979 W72 had a stamped impeller that nearly rubbed the divdier plate. There was less than .030" clearance overall.

My new water pump seems to fit very close also.

Could there be distinct differences in the divider plates???...Robert

  #711  
Old 06-24-2005, 01:09 PM
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I have a 67 gto that runs fine (cool) at slow speeds. On the highway it tends to slowly climb in temp. up to about 205-210. Any thoughts.

  #712  
Old 06-24-2005, 02:47 PM
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Keep on rocking in the free WORLD!!!!!!

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  #713  
Old 06-24-2005, 03:37 PM
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Does the Milidon aluminum pump contain a cast impeller?

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  #714  
Old 06-26-2005, 05:30 PM
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MR68, I would like your opinion on this. I installed a Flow Kooler pump in my 67 Ram Air GTO. This pump comes with a disc brazed to the impeller for better flow. Would you tweak the backing plates as close to the brazed disc as possible? Thanks, Joe

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  #715  
Old 06-27-2005, 09:34 AM
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GTOJOE228,
Can you send me a picture?
[email protected]
Does the disc have a hole in the center of it?
If it has the center hole this would be the suction eye and yes you would still adjust the backing plates as too wide a gap would effect the pumping efficiency.
Russ

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  #716  
Old 06-27-2005, 09:45 AM
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Wow, what a great series of posts! I will use this info when I pull the motor out of my 67 here in a few months. I would love to compare the differences between pumps from different car parts outlets (NAPA vs Cardone vs AutoZone, etc) Thanks for the info...

  #717  
Old 06-27-2005, 09:01 PM
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MR68, for the life of me I can't locate a picture of this pump with the disc brazed to the impeller. I purchased it from summit racing and remember the picture well but cannot come up with one. Anybody have this picture? Please post it here. Joe

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  #718  
Old 06-28-2005, 11:27 AM
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George U RULE!!!!

Here in PHX, AZ it we have DRY heat and lots of it. With 110+ degrees I need all the cooling info I can get my hands on.

Thanks to all of you guys that have chimed in!

  #719  
Old 06-28-2005, 01:13 PM
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Cough up with the buck.

Let us know how yours works in the DRY heat.

George
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  #720  
Old 07-07-2005, 01:49 PM
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runningbwdog, saw your engine photo, not a good place to run the fuel line so close to the radiator hose. could cause vapor problems in the fuel supply.

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