| FAQ |
| Members List |
| Social Groups |
| Calendar |
| Search |
| Today's Posts |
|
#741
|
||||
|
||||
|
Is that the #58299? The remanufactured one? (We don't have Kragen here in FL, so I'm looking online.)
__________________
Thad 1958 Chieftain Safari (370,4 spd, 9 passenger) Daily Driver 1966 Bonneville Wagon (Factory 421,3x2,4spd, 9 passenger) On the road!! |
|
#742
|
||||
|
||||
|
Quote:
__________________
ECM member. 2008 Outlaw Pontiac Drag Series Champion MANDRA Do it now fool! Life is short. 69 Grand Prix/3163lbs / IAII 535 w/ Tiger heads by Gaydosh....9.35@ 144 so far.. through mufflers. 1.26 60'. Going back to track with pump gas engine.... My 60 Ventura retired to street/strip duty.. |
|
#743
|
||||
|
||||
|
Quote:
This is a 100% new pump, the part number sticker says: B55-11145 Cardone C130-1280 GMB On the Kragen website (http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductL...r+Pump&ptset=A) For a '69 LeMans, 350 cid: Cardone B5511143 Ships in 1 dayWeight: 10 lbs. $69.99![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Cardone B5511145 ![]() Ships in 1 day Weight: 11.3 lbs. $24.99![]()
__________________
Freedom is never more than one generation away from extinction. We didn't pass it to our children in the bloodstream. It must be fought for, protected, and handed on for them to do the same. -RONALD REAGAN 462 cid/ 6x-4/ TH400/ 3.36:1/ 28x10.5/ 3880#/ 12.35 @ 109.36/ 1.69 60 ft/ 4 wheel disc brakes/ 15 mpg |
|
#744
|
||||
|
||||
|
Great thread, for those like myself that have read pretty much all of this and have somehow forgot everything,
Could someone make a new version of George's chart that includes the part numbers and specs etc?
__________________
69 GTO Convertible, 4000lbs 462ci, 606tq/569hp - 93 oct @ 34 deg (207psi) 11.7:1, KRE H Ports, Lunati HR 282/290 w Johnson Lifters & 1.65 Scorp, E30, EFI, Holley HP + Dual Sync, 12-1 Crank Trig, 120lb Inj & 1000cfm TB, Torker II EFI Int & Rails, PTC 10", Rock Valley SS Tank, Dual 450s, Aerom EFI Reg, Aero Front & Wilwood Rear Disc Brakes, Dougs 1 7/8" & Borla Pro XS 3", Alum Rad & Dual Fans, 12:1 Box, UMI Arms & Viking Berz Fr + Rear CO Shocks, Hella UP5.0 Vac Pump, 12 Bolt, 3.73, 33 Spline Last edited by GOAT8U2; 08-04-2005 at 01:38 AM. |
|
#745
|
||||
|
||||
|
Thanks PMD... I'll check out those links. I'll need one for a 67 326 and one for a 70 400.
__________________
Thad 1958 Chieftain Safari (370,4 spd, 9 passenger) Daily Driver 1966 Bonneville Wagon (Factory 421,3x2,4spd, 9 passenger) On the road!! |
|
#746
|
|||
|
|||
|
I have posted on this topic before, and as it keeps coming around again and again, I will share my success story.
My '77 Can Am always ran a little on the warm side with the stock 400. When I replaced the 400 with a mid-performance 455, it only augmented the problem. 220 to 225 on the freeway, 200 around town, and fortunately stumbled on this threadbefore I waisted a lot of time and money. Went right to Checker Auto, had them bring out ALL the pumps, found a cast impellerunit,set the clearence with the seperator plate, and set out to test the set-up. Never gets over 180 degrees, and we had our first 100 degree day in Milwaukee in years, so I thought I would give it a real test. With the air on, NEVER got over 180 degrees! Even my wife said, " hey, didn't that little gauge used to go all the way to the right on a hot day?" I have yet to hear of curing an overheating problem COMPLETELY by adjusting timing, richening the mixture, etc, etc. This worked completely and 100 percent.
__________________
Putting some "Can do" in my Can Am |
|
#747
|
||||
|
||||
|
CAn_am: what was the state of the pump you replaced?
Success comes with a price; where's my buck? George |
|
#748
|
||||
|
||||
|
Just a quickie update. As I mentioned, had to replace the water pump on the '69. Car always ran around 220 degrees on a hot day with the A/C on, and around 195 without it. Pulled the old one off that's been on the car for the past 10 years, and sure enough it was one with a stamped steel impeller. Replaced it with the new pump with the cast impeller. Didn't need to mess with the plate since it was pretty close to begin with.
Well, the A/C needs a charge so I cannot comment there, but it's pretty damn hot out there today and the '69 never went over 180 degrees. That's a 15 degree reduction with only a change in pumps.
__________________
Freedom is never more than one generation away from extinction. We didn't pass it to our children in the bloodstream. It must be fought for, protected, and handed on for them to do the same. -RONALD REAGAN 462 cid/ 6x-4/ TH400/ 3.36:1/ 28x10.5/ 3880#/ 12.35 @ 109.36/ 1.69 60 ft/ 4 wheel disc brakes/ 15 mpg |
|
#749
|
|||
|
|||
|
The pump I replaced had the stamped steel impeller, the one that looks like an alternator fan.
|
|
#750
|
|||
|
|||
|
I replaced my shory (early 69 w/ 4 inch length) with a reman. unit from Autozone - reman. by Fenco. It has a nice looking cast impeller. The unit I took out I bought from Year one 1-2 years ago w/ a stamped impeller.
|
|
#751
|
||||
|
||||
|
I just finished checking/changing my pump to divider clearance from about 1/4 inch to damn tight without touching. Fired it up and it idles at 190 no higher no matter what! It used to heat up to 220-230 at idle if i let it!! I am running a milodon aluminum pump (11-hole). Thank goodness for that tip!!
Thanks to all (especially george i believe!) for that tip.
__________________
Derek B. Current best: 11.97@110 1.65-60' !!! '74 ventura, (Fired july 14/06) '74 462 4-bolt (9.5-1), SCAT, Ross, T-II w/850DP (shaker455), TH350, Conti 10'' 3800, Supercomps, Magnaflow, 3'' Pypes, 3.73's, 28x13.5-15 ET streets.1970 Beismeyer 17' flatbottom vdrive, 11.8:1 455P, ported heads, dual Qjet tunnel ram.
|
|
#752
|
||||
|
||||
|
Where's my dollar? Glad you improved your temps!
George |
|
#753
|
||||
|
||||
|
I wish I had seen this thread a year ago. I just happened to read a letter in HPP about the machined impeller vs. stamped. Probably written by one of you guys... I went to a Milodon pump now the temp stays under 195 pushing it 75-85 MPH. Before it would keep climbing until I let off it. I read somewhere else that overheating at idle speeds is lack of airflow thru the rad, overheating at hiway speeds is lack of coolant flow.
|
|
#754
|
||||
|
||||
|
Well I don't know for sure which one did the trick, but thanks George for getting me started on the solution. Added factory Ac to my car and had heat problems with my new motor, 500HP. Added an aluminium rad, flowkooler pump, 160 stat, two 10" electric fans & a heavy duty clutch fan. Temp would still climb on hot days, especially in stop & go traffic. Did so research and changed my pulleys to AC versions. These overdrive the water pump fan. Massaged the divider plate to close the massive gap. Now on a 100 degree day in stop & go traffic with the AC on, temp never got over 185!
|
|
#755
|
||||
|
||||
|
Also forgot to mention, I removed the HD clutch fan, it was just too noisy. Went back to the stock non-AC 5 blade flex fan.
|
|
#756
|
|||
|
|||
|
Great thread!!! Unfortunately I have not had the results of most people that have tried this. Here is some info.... I have had a 1966 Pontiac Tempest for 18 years(since I was 16). It came with a 389 that is bored .030 over. It has always had a problem with running hot. 220+ We first started with a fabricated fan shroud and a new fan 16 years ago. That didn't really help much. In college I found a posi rear end with 3:23's instead of the stock road gear's. That only made things worse.(Go figure!) About 8 years ago I purchased a 4 core radiator and put a new water pump in. That helped a little bit, but not much. I have pretty much lived with it ever since.
I started reading this thread and was hopefull that massaging the divider plate and checking to see if I had a cast impeller would help. I took it apart to find that I had about a 1/4 inch gap and a cast impeller. I closed the gap and put a new 160 degree thermostat in and took it for a drive. It seemed to help about 5-7 degrees out on the highway at 70+ mph. Better than nothing. It still ran about 217 degrees when it was 87 degrees outside. Once I backed it down to 55 mph it went down to about 195 -200. Once I got home, I let it idle in the driveway for 5 minutes and it jumped up to 230+. Sorry for the book, but I was wondering if you guys have any other suggestions. I would say that I am a rookie mechanic, so please be patient.... George, I still think this was a good idea and would gladly pay the buck for the suggestion!!! Thanks! |
|
#757
|
||||
|
||||
|
Shep, too bad it's not totally fixed. What temp gauge are you using and is it accurate?
Make sure you don't have trapped air. Airflow and coolant flow.....anything that lowers either can be a culprit. Did you check your state of tune? George |
|
#758
|
|||
|
|||
|
When I made the change to the divider plate, I put a new temp gauge in. I didn't go with the cheap model either. How do I tell if there is air trapped? What did you mean by "check your state of tune"? I'm a rookie..... I appreciate the help.
Shep |
|
#759
|
||||
|
||||
|
STate of tune: check your timing, make sure you're not running lean, connect your vacuum advance to manifold vacuum rather than ported vacuum.
George |
|
#760
|
|||
|
|||
|
This is a follow-up to my previous post #734. After about a month and a half of occassional summer driving, I can say that the cast impeller/divider plate mod has been worth about 15-20 degrees. For example, today I was caught at the tracks by a train and sat there idling with the A/C on. Checked when I stopped with the infrared sensor and I was at 185. Before it would have been 205 and climbing - and 220 before long. George, it was a dollar well spent!
|
| Reply |
|
|