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#61
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This is going nice, can't wait to see it progress some more!
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William (BJ) 1966 Pontiac GTO |
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#62
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Yeah me too... It's only money...
![]() I have some materials and the shop should have the frame painted and suspension on the car this week. Next we'll address the body work... I'll post more pics as soon as I have them. |
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#63
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Just got back from the shop! Some pics to post... Frame, rear end, and suspension parts, inner fenders, etc... have been painted. Next step is to drop the car back onto the wheels so the rotisserie can be moved out of the way. Got excited looking at the frame, forgot to get pics of the other stuff...LOL
Enjoy the pics. |
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#64
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Looking Good. At the rate you are going you will pass me in the very near future. My painter is still working on a 64 GTO job that he has had for 4 years!
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Remember no one is perfect. Everyone's butt has a crack in it! |
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#65
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Not sure if I'll be passing you anytime soon. This stuff ain't cheap.
Hopefully we'll be into the body work in a few weeks. |
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#66
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I know that that all too well. Everything I need to do now will cost mucho dinero!
__________________
Remember no one is perfect. Everyone's butt has a crack in it! |
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#67
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I did not realize it had been so long since I posted so, here's a few pics to keep me relevant.
![]() Just went to the shop last week. They have the body on the frame with spacers and are wanting to get the suspension wrapped up and then get started on the body work... We'll be doing a RH fender patch and a few small patches up front to have most of the front end finished. The big stuff will be the floors and quarters... While it did not look bad before, the sandblasting revealed lots of pinholes that must be handled so new floors with will be! (Now all I need is some money- LOL) |
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#68
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Not sure if I missed it but what are your plans for color?
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#69
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Old Blue: When I first came to this site I ran a short poll to get an idea of what people though I should do with the car and why.
This car is a documented numbers matching, untouched 67 Tempest Custom, 2 speed manual column shift, 326 2bbl, no a/c, single exhaust, etc. Of course it needed a full resto and my initial inclination was to resto-mod (but that seems extra expensive- especially if I were to use a newer or more modern powerplant); other ideas were to clone the car into GTO, and finally, just leave it stock... The stock color was Champagne Gold with Gold interior. I eventually decided that a 99% return to stock would be the way to go since it would be "original" (ie: not another clone) and probably cheaper to achieve but, lately the "boss" for whom the car is being built, has asked about the color selection. Since the car is still in the bodywork stage, there has been no hard and fast commitment on the color or style... I could always go for the clone or resto-mod... My focus, right now, has been to get the body 100% and into primer and then worry about the little details later. If you or anyone else has suggestions or ideas, I'm open to it.
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#70
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My fender patch panel arrived today so I took it to drop off at the body shop... They've already finished the small patches that they had planned to do... Once the holes was opened, they blasted, cleaned, sealed, and painted so that there would be no future issues. Then they welded the patches... I really like it when a body shop cares about their work!
The next work, after the suspension will be floors... My going will probably be slow since the money will be slow.... ![]() I'll continue to post as I make progress. |
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#71
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After a short break, I've dropped off the springs, brakes and misc suspension parts at the body shop. Still need to get my steering box cleaned (it's filthy).
After that we're gonna be in deep with the body work. My wallet hurts!
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#72
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Most of the suspension is on save for the sway bar and steering box. (having a bolt issue).
Also have all new body bushings on as well. Yippee. Metal work is around the corner. Big questions now: I need several large pieces of metal due to small holes, prior shoddy body work, etc. First of all what "brand" is considered best in the "community opinion" in terms of quality and fit and finish?-- dynacorn, goodmark, etc... I have several sites of vendors including our host and I am trying to see where I can get the best bang for the buck. (This includes shipping charges and proper fitment.) Right now, my list is extensive. I would like to do- 1. full floor (maybe a firewall extension as well) 2. both quarters 3. whole trunk 4. trunk extensions 5. tail panel 6. rear filler panel My dilemma is in deciding on not only from whom to order, but which option is easiest in terms of labor. Here's an example: I've looked at replacing the floor in two floor sections but the body shop says it's time consuming to remove all the rivets or spot welds from the braces. Then there is the matter of lining everything up and welding it. Price is as low as around $80 per side for the sections. The other option is to do a full floor without braces but there is still the matter of removing spot welds and rivets from the braces and the shop claims that a full floor will probably never sit perfectly on the old braces. Price is around $400-500 for the panel. The other option is to buy full floor with braces. less cutting, less welding but price is over $800! None of the prices include shipping which is insane! So basically, I'm looking for advice from the experienced folks here who can tell me if spending $80 on floor sections will save me $720 in labor ($35 per hour x 2 guys). There is the same dilemma with the trunk... I want this done right the first time but I don't want to spend more than I truly have to. What do you guys think? |
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#73
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Can you get photos of the interior floor sections in the car now? I've got an idea for you but it might not go over very well. I'll PM you on what it is once I see a photo.
__________________
![]() Gary Get in, ShuT Up, Hang On! Member of the Baltimore Built Brotherhood MY GTO built 4th Week of March 1966 "Crusin' Is Not A Crime" Keep yer stick on the ice. |
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#74
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I sure can when I get home from work tonight.
As it sits the passenger front has pinholes, passenger rear has a hole about the size of a fist or so IIRC. The driver's side is pretty solid except that the floor feels a little soft on the driver's side and if I'm already this deep I might as well do it right. Oh, and the driver's side about 7" or so up into the firewall it has a few pin holes here and there. The trunk is about the same with just enough holes to make it soft... Sandblasting really brings out all the issues... LOL
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#75
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Here's those floor pics...
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#76
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PM sent. Too bad the rear is bad. It's worse than I thought it would be. Looks like the rear anchor points for the seat tracks are gone. Usually it's the fronts that get really bad, but yours are more pin holes than anything else.
__________________
![]() Gary Get in, ShuT Up, Hang On! Member of the Baltimore Built Brotherhood MY GTO built 4th Week of March 1966 "Crusin' Is Not A Crime" Keep yer stick on the ice. |
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#77
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Sorry to see that. The Flintstones have nothing on your car.
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#78
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PM replied.
These stupid pinholes drive me crazy! I really want to make sure that this car is done right and is solid through and through. This is a car that will never see inclement weather and is destined for a cozy spot in the garage when she's finished. So, in regards to my metal questions, what do you all think is the most cost effective way to go? small sections, full sections, complete full sections with braces? What Brand? |
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#79
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are my favorite looks great keep up the good work
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#80
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Louis, I'd say the full floor with braces would be the best and onlyway to go if it were me doing it. Expensive yes, but at least everything is there and it's all done at once in one shot. No having to go back and rip it all apart for another section that needs to be done later on.
__________________
![]() Gary Get in, ShuT Up, Hang On! Member of the Baltimore Built Brotherhood MY GTO built 4th Week of March 1966 "Crusin' Is Not A Crime" Keep yer stick on the ice. |
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