[2002Z4CSS]

Nice shiney paint!

[carpoor]

Still working on it as time allows, and the heat down here is brutal this time of year.

[rexs73gto]

It looks great keep it up , your doing fine work. Plus I know even if it wasn't hot you'd be sweating , I know because I did mine that way back in 96 & I don't know if I'd ever want to do that again. It takes a lot of HARD work but worth it when done. Keep up the Great work.

[OVERULD]

Nice job - looks great. I love that color!

BJ

[carpoor]

I wasn't around for the first start up today, two issues....

1.) Terrible exhaust leaks at the manifold/head pipe connections. Factory log manifolds, Pypes lead pipes. What are my options to remedy this?

2.) Runs rough, won't rev. I am thinking the valve adjustment isn't right, too tight. My hope is that he didn't wipe any lobes on the camshaft. Said it barely has any compression, sounds like a valve or two hung open due to being too tight. (He is running poly locks, and "ran the valves like a SBC/BBC")

I have searched and found a few proven methods for proper adjustment. My question is, can I remedy this without pulling the intake and valley cover?

I want to fix the exhaust leaks first, then sort the valve adjustment so I'll be able to hear anything that isn't normal when I start it again. I'm tempted to pull the filter and check the oil for shavings.

Thanks in advance.

[JSPONT]

What cam, solid or hydraulic? Easy to feel the push rod on a solid lifter, its hard to tell on a hydraulic with out seeing.
Was timing chain was put in right? Start with the easy stuff first.

[carpoor]

It's a hydraulic flat tappet, Melling 067 replacement. I was there for the short block assembly/cam install. That all went together correctly. I need to go back and see what studs Butler Performance installed. I may just yank the poly locks and and go back to the original style crimp nuts.

[HWYSTR455]

I suggest properly adjusting the valve train before moving forward with anything else. Going to the stock nuts is a move backwards, and makes me think the current adjustment is incorrect.

Explain how the valve train was adjusted, maybe that will help determine what could be suggested as a next step.

.

[johnta1]

I would say the majority of the time it is the adjustment is too tight for the hydraulic lifters.
(most keep tightening when the lifter keeps 'collapsing' and eventually when it starts the lifter pumps up keeping the valves open)

Try just backing each rocker off a turn, then try running it.

When running use some rocker arm deflectors and adjust while running.
(back off until it clatters then tighten until it just stops, then maybe a 1/4 to 1/4 turn more)

[carpoor]

Went through some of the paperwork, these are the studs...

http://m.summitracing.com/parts/ARP-100-7101/

I need to see if we have an old valve cover I can cut up. I'd like to back them all off and adjust them running.

[HWYSTR455]

The studs really don't matter that much, and a cold adjustment is fine. You can do it while running, but it makes a mess.

Just rotate the engine by hand with a breaker bar, and as the exhaust valve starts to open, adjust the intake valve/rocker. As you rotate and the intake opens, and then is almost all the way closed, adjust the exhaust valve/rocker. Go one at a time until all are done.

To adjust, slow turn the poly lock until all the slack is taken out and NOT compressing the plunger (zero lash), then give it a half a turn. You can spin the pushrod between your fingers to feel when you've reached zero lash.

.

[johnta1]

Just rotate the engine by hand with a breaker bar, and as the exhaust valve starts to open, adjust the intake valve/rocker. As you rotate and the intake opens, and then is almost all the way closed, adjust the exhaust valve/rocker. Go one at a time until all are done.

To adjust, slow turn the poly lock until all the slack is taken out and NOT compressing the plunger (zero lash), then give it a half a turn. You can spin the pushrod between your fingers to feel when you've reached zero lash.

Running it is messy sometimes.
(but I think more accurate)



Valve Adjustment

[johnta1]

Forgot about this method!

Start with all the rockers really loose. Adjust all rockers to zero lash. Rotate crank 360 degrees and tighten to zero lash any loose rockers. Then just add a 1/2 turn to each rocker nut, and voilá, done deal.

[carpoor]

Originally Posted by johnta1

Forgot about this method!

Is that method with the engine running? I spoke to him today, said it wouldn't stay running unless you kept it about 1/2 throttle.

[carpoor]

ENGINE AT #1 FIRING POSITION, SET #2 INTAKE AND #8 EXHAUST.
TURN ENGINE 90 DEG CLOCKWISE AND SET #1 INTAKE, #4 EXHAUST
TURN ENGINE 90 DEG CLOCKWISE AND SET #8 INTAKE, #3 EXHAUST
TURN ENGINE 90 DEG CLOCKWISE AND SET #4 INTAKE, #6 EXHAUST
TURN ENGINE 90 DEG CLOCKWISE AND SET #3 INTAKE, #5 EXHAUST
TURN ENGINE 90 DEG CLOCKWISE AND SET #6 INTAKE, #7 EXHAUST
TURN ENGINE 90 DEG CLOCKWISE AND SET # 5 INTAKE, #2 EXHAUST
TURN ENGINE 90 DEG CLOCKWISE AND SET #7 INTAKE, #1 EXHAUST

I used this method yesterday to rerun the valves. I went over today and we got it started. A little cold-blooded, but ran well once it warmed up. Got the cam broken in and set the base timing to 10* for now.

The exhaust leak seems to be isolated to the passenger side. The flange on the pipe appears to be too deep, if that makes sense. The pipe is starting to "tulip" around the flanges for the studs on the outlet of the exhaust manifold.

Scored an XV coded 12 bolt yesterday, thinking about swapping it into this car.

[2002Z4CSS]

If you don't get poly locks get some brand new small block Chevy rocker arm nuts. They cost about $1 a piece. I run them on my GT-37 with a Melling Select cam. Mine were too tight uing the stock torque spec. Now I adjust them like a Chevy engine.

[carpoor]

Has poly locks and upgraded studs, supplied by Butler. I wasn't there when he initially ran the valves on the engine stand. But, most were too loose. It runs great now, just need to finish assembly and get some break in miles on it. Then I will start working on getting it set on kill.

[carpoor]

One down...

[carpoor]

Oh yeah, I am really starting to get excited now.

Going to rebuild XV 12 bolt and install it in this car, seems only logical. Plus 3.55s will wake it up vs. the current 3.07s. That's it on the floor in front of the car in the picture.

[carpoor]

Almost there...