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#61
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I wish I would have known you were doing this...... My buddy just closed his shop and has/had alot of equipment for sale at some cheap prices. After TRR this year its down to just a few items. He sold his shop so new owner kept spray booth,mixing station,one frame machine. I sure do miss having a frame machine and spray booth.
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Everything comes and goes Pleasure moves on too early And trouble leaves too slow |
#62
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Dang, that is nice Steve...not only the building but the offer! You're going to make me have to re-think my plans again. Logistics of getting up there/timing might be a problem right now but let me think about it. In fact, I may give you a call later in the week.
Charles, I gotcha message...lol. Yeah, I do sleep late nowadays.. Completely reversed my clock. I used to get up at 3am...now I go to bed at 3am.
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Greg Reid Palmetto, Georgia |
#63
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I've got a paint shop nearby that I've been using for a few years. I can get the paint, no problem. Same place I got the paint for the jambs. I'm pretty much down to two guns on my list but thanks for the suggestion.
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Greg Reid Palmetto, Georgia |
#64
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Alright...I'm invested so, no turning back now...
I bought one of these to make my 'booth' out of...- And this-
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Greg Reid Palmetto, Georgia |
#65
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Greg, I spoke with an I-CAR instructor about how to practice and what to practice on, and he said to hang up single thickness sheets of newspaper and practice on them. You want to cover the print without runs. It's plentiful and free, and you can do a good check of your pattern and technique before you commit to your sheetmetal. Just a thought.....
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Jeff |
#66
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I wish I were closer I would offer our paint booth also and or come help you out. Im a ASE painter and ASE collison tech and I-CAR cert also. I dont comment often in the body shop tech forum not really sure why.
Couple suggestions I have are: Make sure all prep work is done correctly. Long list Blow everything out very well with a blow gun prior to pulling the car into your booth. If in the driveway/gravel wet down the area around the booth. Plenty of ventilation/light. Wipe down the car several times with prep solvent/wax and grease remover. "When wet this also helps to see how well the bodywork looks". Don't go in a circular motion straight forward and up and down use lint free towels one to apply and one to dry. Once in the booth tack cloth the car very well. Pick up a throw away paint suite it will help keep you clean and the paint job. Far as applying base/clear that is hard to explain over a computer im not sure on how much you know and dont know how much to explain. Have any questions feel free to ask. Couple pics of some work I do just so you know this is what I do for a profession. The 75' Grandville was smashed in the front The Terrain was a mess also. |
#67
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Sounds good.... But believe it or not, I actually have a lot more scrap sheetmetal around here than I do newspaper...lol...I do like the idea of trying to cover something without runs though. I'll keep that in mind and I will practice. Quote:
I'm looking at a lot of youtube so I can actually watch people painting. It does help somewhat. Don't worry...I WILL be asking some last minute questions before I do this and also afterwards before the cut and buff stage. I'm kinda stoked about it now. Can't wait for some stable, warm spring weather.
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Greg Reid Palmetto, Georgia |
#68
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Stick to your Idea.
I to was in a quandary about getting my 66 painted I did not have the confidence to do it myself although I had researched for about a year bought the gun and equip to do it.At the last minute I backed out and went searching for a body shop well 2 years later and allot of grief and money my car is back home with the worst looking paint job I've ever seen.I am sick about it and don't know what to do to fix it they shop came highly recommended with 45 years of experience and specialty being hot rods.Once I dropped her off it took 5 months before they even touched it after that it was all down hill thought I was going to have a nervous break down.The car is a frame off restoration it is now back home and the body is sitting on 4x4s as it sat around his shop so long the frame got dusted with over spray I know this is a long story but just venting I am in very poor health and on a limited income so now I'm at a loss as to what to do the car has not been cut and buffed he keeps saying it will look great when it's done but cutting and buffing will not remove scratches in the base coat or dead spots in the paint I live in Tampa Fla and wish I had dragged it to one of the Macos or Carsmetics to get it shot I'm living a nightmare now.I guess just trying to get the point across have the confidence t do it yourself I wish I did good luck.There is a good website that can give you lots of info AUTOBODYSTORE .COM guys name is Len Stuart old school guy anyways good luck.One more thing the shop lost a bunch of small parts so now I have to repurchase this stuff..
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#69
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Sorry for your troubles 1966geeto. I hope you can find someone to straighten it out for you.
Yeah, it seems that getting the paint done is a bottleneck for a lot of projects. I guess good painters, and apparently, even bad ones... are in demand so it takes forever and unless you've had previous good experiences with them, you STILL don't know what you are going to get in the end. I figure that if I screw it up, at least I don't have to argue with anyone. By the way, I'm a member at autobodystore.com .... Lots of good info over there.
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Greg Reid Palmetto, Georgia |
#70
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I've considered doing my own paint work a few times and I am semi-confident in my abilities. But, after taking into consideration the insanely high cost of materials & equipment and the likelihood of the end result coming out looking like ass and having to redo everything at twice the cost (or more) a local Maaco made the most sense to me. I know the OP stated that wasn't really an option for him. I do all my own prep work as I can handle that but the final paint being the number one most visible thing I see, well I prefer to leave it to a pro. But after reading the above horror story & knowing how hard it can be to find a competent shop/painter I can see why someone would want to shoot it themelf. |
#71
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#72
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Never. I have it bookmarked now though...Thanks!
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Greg Reid Palmetto, Georgia |
#73
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poor paint job
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#74
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Scratches in the base coat
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#75
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Sounds like a nightmare...I really feel for you. Mine may wind up just as bad. If it does, I'll just have to do it all over again. At least I give myself excellent rates on labor.
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Greg Reid Palmetto, Georgia |
#76
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I got my Tekna gun yesterday. One of the first things I notice is that it's calling for high flow disconnects.
Any thoughts on the necessity and where can I get them? I have 3/8" hose but inner orifices at the factory 1/4 threaded ends are clearly not that large. I'm a little confused... What's the deal on high flow in general?
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Greg Reid Palmetto, Georgia |
#77
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lots of brands out there.. here is a popular one.
http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/milt...6-p-15105.aspx |
#78
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you can even get them at Lowes
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Everything comes and goes Pleasure moves on too early And trouble leaves too slow |
#79
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Thanks Steve, Cammer. I had read that they had them at HF so I went there. Didn't find anything labeled specifically as 'High Flow' but I did find some 3/8" 'T' type with very large openings. I suppose that will suffice for now?
Still kinda confused on how any of that helps though, considering the fact that the swaged ends of the 3/8" hose I'm using are not that large. ?? Bigger than the ones I'm using now but still not as large stuff I bought today.
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Greg Reid Palmetto, Georgia |
#80
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store bought hose is too small.
I went to Snyder hose 30 yrs ago and had hoses made and all of them are still in use. I have a special 30ft hose for nothing but the HVLP that is larger than usual with the hi flow fittings.Dont get one too long for this youll get alot of pressure drop.
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Everything comes and goes Pleasure moves on too early And trouble leaves too slow |
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