[Va68goat]

Here's a better picture of the clearance between the booster and the valve cover.

[Va68goat]

Thank you for the response Chiphead. Not too sure if they are wrench marks or not. As I mentioned before, I'm pretty new to these old cars and I'm sure learning a lot so responses like yours, I really do appreciate. Out of an abundance of caution, I went ahead and ordered the Crowers. I ordered them from Jegs but I learned that they were on back order. I took TedRamAirII advice and I called Butlers and they had them in stock so I cancelled the order to Jegs.

I'm sure there was a solution that I could have taken that would not have cost me $587.00 but being so new to cars, I wouldn't trust myself to do anything to that motor. I've done a lot on the car...more than I ever thought I would do but just to be safe, I'm willing to learn an expensive lesson.

I already have the valve covers. I posted the link to them along with the gaskets that was suggested to me. Paul reassured me that the Crowers will have no problem with these valve covers and gaskets. Can you identify what kind of rockers these are? I know the guy that I bought the car from had some good parts but a lot of his stuff was done half ass. I attached a picture where you can see that I have good spacing to the brake booster....I think!

[chiphead]

Originally Posted by Va68goat

*snip* Can you identify what kind of rockers these are? I know the guy that I bought the car from had some good parts but a lot of his stuff was done half ass. I attached a picture where you can see that I have good spacing to the brake booster....I think!

Those rockers are interesting, because they are die cast aluminum. I have not seen a set of those in person, or for sale from the popular Pontiac vendors. I imagine the were very cost effective and very light. The advantage would be reduced reciprocating weight. Downside is they are not as strong as more popular aluminum rockers.

Most of the aluminum body rockers (like Harland Sharp, Comp Gold, etc) are die extruded, CNC machined and then anodized. The die extruded rockers are going to be stronger than a cast aluminum rocker. There are differences in both the aluminum alloy and the grain structure of the extruded part, that will make it able to handle more spring pressure than a cast rocker, without failure.

The Crower steel enduros are even stronger than an extruded rocker, so it's a solid upgrade for your application. Compare the weight of the cast aluminum rocker to the Crower, you'll be surprised.

http://www.enginebuildermag.com/2012...rm-technology/

[400 Lemans]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Crane-1-65-...pa5bOg&vxp=mtr I think these may be them.

[Va68goat]

Thanks Chiphead. Sounds like all good advice. I've been speaking and texting with Paul, the builder, and he's been great to deal with. He's going through steps that I can do prior to having to send this motor back to Arizona...thats the last thing I really want to do but if thats what is needed, that will happen. This would be so much easier if I knew more about cars but I'm appreciative of the friends I have that help me and for you guys taking the time to give your thoughts.

[TedRamAirII]

With that noise, I sure would get my hand on the bottom of the oil pan and try to "feel" the noise. If you can feel it, in the oil pan, the engine has to come out. Sounds low down inside to me.

[cnc]

So what was it that caused the mark/damage incorrect adjuster???

[Va68goat]

Make no mistake Paul, I'm happy with the build. This problem will get resolved and I'll learn a little something in the mean time. I was speaking with Will this morning and he brought up a good point. He suggested that I adjust the poly lock so that it will clear, start the car and see if the knocking goes away. That way we know for certain that was the issue. What are your thoughts?

[HWYSTR455]

I know the pics aren't that good, but in person you can clearly see the witness marks, they line up with the locks. Even if you turn the nuts, they are close enough to where any movement will cause contact.

I see how it could be missed, its close, and it looks like they clear. But with the movement running, they contact, and not all the time.

No problem Paul, my pleasure, but if you want to make it up to me somehow, get your car on the road! Heheh!

.

[Formulas]

Looks like poly lock and rocker body interfearance, I have a set of those rockers the original poly locks cracked pretty easy when chinching them down

Took the rockers off got new polys never tried to use the rockers again

Mine however did not rub like this

[AG]

Check your oil filter.

[gtofreek]

I'm real sorry about that Joe. Not sure how I missed that when I pulled the valve covers to look at things after the dyno.

Mike, thanks for helping Joe out. Let me know how I can make it up to you for your time and effort.

[Formulas]

They are the Crane cast aluminum rockers good for stock or slightly modified engines no roller cams or flat tappet cams with alot of spring pressures.. Im not sure where the EXACT limits are

I would lash them down as others described watching the flats to make sure thats the only problem

.

[61-63]

Originally Posted by Formulas

They are the Crane cast aluminum rockers good for stock or slightly modified engines no roller cams or flat tappet cams with alot of spring pressures.. Im not sure where the EXACT limits are

I would lash them down as others described watching the flats to make sure thats the only problem

.

The Crane catalog says those are their entry level roller rockers suitable for use with flat tappet and roller lifter cams with open pressures up to 450 lbs.

http://www.cranecams.com/314-319.pdf

The second .pdf in post #7 says open pressure on this build is 405-410# I think it was.

[Va68goat]

TedRamAirII,

We removed the plugs last night and turned the engine by hand. It was pretty difficult to spin. My buddy last night said it should have been much easier to spin with the plugs out. Since I'm pretty new to these old cars, I really didn't know what it was supposed to feel like. My buddy then tried and said it shouldn't have been that difficult. We didn't really hear much when we spun it but I may try that again this week.

[Va68goat]

JSPONT,

We did check out the flexplate bolts and it was fine. We rotated the flexplate and looked at all the bolts and none of them were hitting. Here are a few pictures of that step.

[TedRamAirII]

Pull the spark plugs, and get a 1/2" ratchet and turn the engine by hand. Feeling and hearing for anything out of place. The engine should smoothly turn without any noises, scraping, dragging on feeling of torque to turn it. You may even hear your noise. Maybe a windage tray got a little close? I would for sure get my hand on the oil pan just to feel if anything my be rubbing on it. Maybe get your hand on as much as possible to feel the noise. Fuel pump, oil pan area, valve covers, distributor, etc. Almost sounds like its half speed of the crank.

[61-63]

Have you tried using a mechanics stethoscope on that engine under the car at various spots on the bottom edge both sides, up top, front to back one runner after another on the intake, etc., etc.?

[400 Lemans]

Could be a broken spring under the plunger of the fuel pump. They will still pump but there is nothing there to take up the slack in the plunger arm. I have had this happen before and it was the last thing i thought to check and there it was. Sounded like a valve tapping. Cant tell from the videos though if your running a mechanical fuel pump.

[Va68goat]

JSPONT,

HWYSTR455 cut the filter, checked the oil and the pleats and I trust him 100%. He didn't see anything out of ordinary. Yes, it does have a windage tray. Someone did mention that something could be hitting the windage tray.