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  #61  
Old 04-20-2018, 11:53 AM
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I've always use Moly top, cast iron second, but in almost all cases we were working with correctly prepped "fresh" bores without taper or out of round, no "ridge" at the top, etc. Have had perfect success every single time, except for decades ago when I got involved with one of those old Ford 390 blocks that you had to hone with a "rock" and put plain cast iron rings in it or the Township would be hiring you to kill mosquitos in the summer with it!........Cliff

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  #62  
Old 04-20-2018, 12:35 PM
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The best budget performance ring is:

Moly coating on a ductile iron top ring
reverse twist plain cast iron 2nd ring
standard tension oil ring.

Next step up from that is to use a Napier 2nd ring, which has better oil control than reverse twist. Maybe a bit more expensive, but not much. I assume these will be the 1/16" ring pack? Pretty typical for mild performance pistons.

Moly coated top rings are pretty forgiving of cylinder wall finish, as long as there is a fresh cross-hatch it should seat. Best cylinder sealing will be obtained with a torque plate hone, plateau finish and total taper/OOR of less than .001".

Beyond that, ring widths, coatings and base metal technology gets more complex and more expensive, and would be massive overkill for your application.

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  #63  
Old 04-23-2018, 01:07 PM
455rebel 455rebel is offline
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ok wrote my first check today 270$
from a member I got L2359 .030 pistons, on polished ,balanced, stock rods with arp bolts installed.
they take 5/64,1/16,3/16 rings
I'm having trouble finding a file to fit set?
cast iron vs moly?
thanks
and so it begins
and remember I'm a member of the NVSE.
no visible speed equipment LOL

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1970 amc rebel 4-door, faded blue paint,290 emblems on car, 455 under the hood.Turbo 400,3.15 gear.
Best so far 1/8 et,8.90 on street tires,
Since that I have added 400 heads.
I call it a rat sleeper.
  #64  
Old 04-23-2018, 01:21 PM
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Falcon Global shows file fit rings for 455 Pontiac engines. 2M5543-035 is the ring part number they show for a .030 over 455 SP piston. That's a .035 oversize. Don't know the brand. Anybody know ?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Speed-Pro-P...BWxM5D&vxp=mtr

How about the possibility of using ring spacers on the top rings, so that you can buy a thin ring package ?

http://www.enginelabs.com/news/total...-wide-grooves/

I think I remember reading that Scott Burton uses ring spacers in his Stocker engine, because the rules require that the pistons have stock width grooves.

http://www.hotrod.com/articles/hppp-...tiac-firebird/

Or I suppose you might could buy 2 sets of file fit rings, in order to get both a 5/64 & a 1/16 file fit ring.

Some of the engine builders here may know of a set that is available. Some of the ring companies may put a custom ring pack together for you.

http://015ef8d.netsolhost.com/Custom.aspx

http://blog.jepistons.com/je-custom-...vices-pro-seal

I've read of some guys buying no-file rings .005 bigger, then possibly having to file less off of 'em. But, I'm not aware of any engine other than the Pontiac 455 with those different size top & 2nd rings.


Last edited by ponyakr; 04-23-2018 at 02:13 PM.
  #65  
Old 04-23-2018, 02:27 PM
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From the last "printed" Speed Pro catalog (2002)
.035 over file fit ring set R-10249 35 (they are obviously .035 over because they are file fit.

I would use the E-300K 30 non file fit set. The end gaps usually end up spot on, but every ring should be checked, every time.........

Both sets are plasma moly...

My engine builder told me to use moly rings on ANY type of a build. Iron top rings seat quick but will wear big time...

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  #66  
Old 04-23-2018, 02:28 PM
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Here's some cheap 5/64 rings in a 4.185 bore size. That might work for the top & oil rings, for a .030 over 455.

https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performa...27116/10002/-1

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Oldsmobile-...1axPG0&vxp=mtr

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/s...3k60/overview/

Then you could buy a set with 1/6 top & 2nd rings in the 4.185 bore size. 2 sets of cheaper rings might be cheaper than a custom set, and some of the higher priced sets that will work.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/s...3460/overview/


Last edited by ponyakr; 04-23-2018 at 03:26 PM.
  #67  
Old 04-23-2018, 03:38 PM
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The sets I mentions ARE for the L2359 455 pistons, with 5/64 and 1/16 rings exactly for those pistons, no need to buy 2 sets....IF...they are available...

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  #68  
Old 04-23-2018, 03:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 77 TRASHCAN View Post
The sets I mentions ARE for the L2359 455 pistons, with 5/64 and 1/16 rings exactly for those pistons, no need to buy 2 sets....IF...they are available...
Any idea of the price of those 4.185 rings you listed, and where to buy 'em ?

So far, I haven't found the 4.185 rings with 5/64 top & 1/16 2nd, in the same set, UNLESS those mentioned with the SP pistons, from Falcon Global are correct.

That don't mean that the numbers you posted are wrong. I just haven't found any listed, yet.

As many 455's as has been built by guys here, using those pistons, I'm sure several of the guys can tell us what file fit rings will work. Some of 'em will probably chime in when they see this.

I used the no-file SP rings in all my 455's. Never had a ring problem, that I'm aware of. Now, did I leave some power on the table, because of it ? I have no idea. Had plenty of power to run low 12's & high 11's, in our low budget, low rpm footbraker bracket racers.

  #69  
Old 04-23-2018, 07:09 PM
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I guess you found the E300K rings, everyone has them. I'm not the internet sleuth that you are (LOL) I searche once, and found nothing. This catalog was from 2002, there's a boat load of stuff that Federal Mogal has scrapped. I' sure those file fit rings are one of them.
There's no real need to get the file fit rings. The E300K rings are great!

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  #70  
Old 04-24-2018, 02:19 AM
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I would go with pre-fitted SpeedPro rings. No need for file to fit. The factory can machine to better tolerances than you and I can file.

  #71  
Old 04-24-2018, 10:07 AM
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Ok, I might forget about file to Fit!
Ring Spacer? I like the idea of small ring,less Drag?
Are their low tension rings for street engine that increase Power?
Thanks, keep up the Chat!
Now what bout torque Converter?
With the crower and 3.15 rear, will my stock one Do?
Or for about 100$ I can get a rv stall local, 17-1800rpm Stall?
My current one stalls about 1200rpm.

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1970 amc rebel 4-door, faded blue paint,290 emblems on car, 455 under the hood.Turbo 400,3.15 gear.
Best so far 1/8 et,8.90 on street tires,
Since that I have added 400 heads.
I call it a rat sleeper.
  #72  
Old 04-24-2018, 10:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 455rebel View Post
Now what bout torque Converter?
http://www.ptcrace.com/

Trusted by most of the fastest N/A Pontiac racers.
Ken Keefer dealt with them lots.
Great value for the money.

  #73  
Old 04-24-2018, 01:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 455rebel View Post
Ok, I might forget about file to Fit!
I'd just get the Sealed Power.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/slp-e-300k30
Once upon a time I liked playing with nitrous on my street cars. That would create blow-by that usually wasn't a problem. I'd be real tempted to use Total Seal if I was going to do that now.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/t...6035/overview/
Quote:
Originally Posted by 455rebel View Post
Ring Spacer? I like the idea of small ring,less Drag? Are their low tension rings for street engine that increase Power?
Given this a lot of thought. Hot Rod Network did an article about skinny low tension rings and there is some power to be gained with them. I'm not convinced on using them on a Pontiac street hot rod. Racers that use them typically do an engine refresh every season or two. A bunch of the LS people have come up with oil catch can type stuff for some reason. Then you've got the vacuum pump deals that claim HP gains. That tells me there's too much positive pressure in the crank case.

Here's the link to the ring test video where they gained 8 horse power.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-29IWc-zrv8

Quote:
Originally Posted by 455rebel View Post
Now what bout torque Converter?
With the crower and 3.15 rear, will my stock one Do?
Or for about 100$ I can get a rv stall local, 17-1800rpm Stall?
My current one stalls about 1200rpm.
That 1200 on the brakes before tires start to spin? If so, flash stall should be a little bit higher. That's kick it from idle should go higher than what the brakes will hold boxed up. When I had the HO engine in my car and TH400 behind it, I tried a few different looser converters hoping to make the car move quicker from a stand still. With real street tires it made off the line traction a lot worse. Needed cheater slicks of some kind really bad. Just not going to do that on a daily driver street car that sees long road trips.

I'm sure other opinions will vary
Clay

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  #74  
Old 04-25-2018, 10:21 AM
455rebel 455rebel is offline
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Benn researching convertors on several forums and think the stock one might be best choice.
On 255/ 60 regular street tires, launching from a stop,they already go to smoke,with any power brake
Over 1k. Lots of post I read with 455 street builds, said there car was more street friendly with a stock Convertor!
I've decided to use the std non file ring set,since bore will be fresh.
Now researching head and intake mild diy port work,I have the carbide burrs and air grinder,need pics and instructions.
I've done AMC heads ,and classic motorcycle heads in past with real seat of pants Results!
And I can't find the read but I remember when I built the engine the first time ,someone modified the stock logs,
For a sleeper build, any Ideas?
Thanks all.

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1970 amc rebel 4-door, faded blue paint,290 emblems on car, 455 under the hood.Turbo 400,3.15 gear.
Best so far 1/8 et,8.90 on street tires,
Since that I have added 400 heads.
I call it a rat sleeper.
  #75  
Old 04-25-2018, 10:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 455rebel View Post
On 255/ 60 regular street tires, launching from a stop,they already go to smoke
Or even a 30 km/h roll.
Big power requires sticky tires.

  #76  
Old 04-25-2018, 11:13 AM
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Here's a thread by b-man on increasing power with log manifolds....real interesting. Hope it helps.

http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...48#post3967348

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  #77  
Old 04-26-2018, 09:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 455rebel View Post
Benn researching convertors on several forums and think the stock one might be best choice.
On 255/ 60 regular street tires, launching from a stop,they already go to smoke,with any power brake
Over 1k. Lots of post I read with 455 street builds, said there car was more street friendly with a stock Convertor!
I've decided to use the std non file ring set,since bore will be fresh.
Now researching head and intake mild diy port work,I have the carbide burrs and air grinder,need pics and instructions.
I've done AMC heads ,and classic motorcycle heads in past with real seat of pants Results!
And I can't find the read but I remember when I built the engine the first time ,someone modified the stock logs,
For a sleeper build, any Ideas?
Thanks all.
Jim Hand's book is a great reference for port work, also Pete McCarthy made a video, which is great. Not sure if book is still in print, but I bet you can find a copy. Might have to make a want to buy ad here for Pete's video.

Sounds like you have most of the grinding tools needed. I have found cartridge rolls to be very helpful. They don't take a lot of material off at once and are more forgiving (no chatter).

I'm no expert on converters. THe PTC converters have been spoken about here, some. Might help some. I plan to save up the $$$ and buy the brand that Cliff is selling. He says they work great. He searched for a company that could deliver a converter that worked as well as the Continental's, and found one.

You might post some pic'd of your engine bay, it might some help determine if you might be able to run a common Pontiac header on your car...

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1977 Black Trans Am 180 HP Auto, essentially base model T/A.
I'm the original owner, purchased May 7, 1977.

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  #78  
Old 04-26-2018, 09:59 AM
455rebel 455rebel is offline
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Big power requires sticky tires, I agree,but 99 % of my driving is on street,and I have owned stickey
Dot tires in past,don't like their street manners. Besides,a smoke show relieve STRESS!
Thanks for the log mod Link!
Still need a head work Link?
And how noisy are the Rhodes lifters? Are they a dead giveaway?
Cam and lifters will be my next purchase.
Thanks all.

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1970 amc rebel 4-door, faded blue paint,290 emblems on car, 455 under the hood.Turbo 400,3.15 gear.
Best so far 1/8 et,8.90 on street tires,
Since that I have added 400 heads.
I call it a rat sleeper.
  #79  
Old 04-26-2018, 11:17 AM
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You need to purchase the Rhoads V-Max version of their lifters. They can be much quieter than the originals, depending upon how they are adjusted. I have heard Jim Hand's wagon with both types in his engine. I could barely tell the V-Max units from stock.
Durabond cam bearings seem to be the preferred cam bearings, look for those, when you get there.
In my opinion, the issue of tire smoke is a good thing. If a person builds a 455 of any type and is not able to produce tire smoke, there's something wrong!!! Experimenting with ways of reducing tire spin (smoke) is a good thing to have to deal with!!!

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1977 Black Trans Am 180 HP Auto, essentially base model T/A.
I'm the original owner, purchased May 7, 1977.

Shut it off
Shut it off
Buddy, I just shut your Prius down...
  #80  
Old 04-27-2018, 08:50 AM
455rebel 455rebel is offline
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Just so I cam compare, what would it cost to do a budget roller Cam? I know NOTHING about roller cam, and set Up?
I've seen some kits in the 6-7 hundred dollars Range? Are they a bolt in or is machine work Necessary?
What is the benifits to a roller, less friction I understand,but what Else?
If I could swing a roller,how much more power are we talking about?
Would I need springs and pushrods different from my comp set up?
Would my roller tip rockers still Work?
Thanks

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1970 amc rebel 4-door, faded blue paint,290 emblems on car, 455 under the hood.Turbo 400,3.15 gear.
Best so far 1/8 et,8.90 on street tires,
Since that I have added 400 heads.
I call it a rat sleeper.
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