[Half-Inch Stud]

Originally Posted by JJake

What BOP engine to 4l80 adaptor has worked best?

Summit or Jegs: $48-$59 for the plate. I stencil-cut it to match the BLOCK's upper perimeter.

[HWYSTR455]

What I originally found was that the plate, between the bolt next to the filter housing, and the next bolt up, should be trimmed, due to the trans dipstick tube location. If you don't, it could prevent the tube from seating properly into the trans case. And bending it is not easy.

You could if you wanted, trim between that bolt next to the filter housing, to the next one down too, which can help with filter changes. I trimmed the 'ear' off the case on that side too, also to help the filter changes.


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[HWYSTR455]

A note on the re-routing of the cooler lines on case. Manufacturer realized that there was a design flaw in coolant flow, and moved the fitting rearward to overcome.

Most builders know of this flaw, and mod internal routing to effectively do the same thing on pre-97 cases. Both Jake & Chris at CK religiously do this mod.


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[torqhead]

What do you guys suggest as far as driveshaft? I should have the trans tomorrow and plan on getting it mounted so I can take a measurement since my old one won't work. Is there recommendations on yoke and driveshaft type. Want to go heavy duty and not worry about having any issues!

[JLMounce]

Originally Posted by torqhead

What do you guys suggest as far as driveshaft? I should have the trans tomorrow and plan on getting it mounted so I can take a measurement since my old one won't work. Is there recommendations on yoke and driveshaft type. Want to go heavy duty and not worry about having any issues!

When I talked to your install guy, he mentioned he used Northern Colorado Driveline.

I had them build my current shaft. It's an aluminum piece with solid u-joints. They build a good quality piece. I'd give them a call and discuss your needs.

[69FIREBIRD76MM]

Originally Posted by torqhead

What do you guys suggest as far as driveshaft? I should have the trans tomorrow and plan on getting it mounted so I can take a measurement since my old one won't work. Is there recommendations on yoke and driveshaft type. Want to go heavy duty and not worry about having any issues!

"PEM" makes some nice steel and aluminum driveshafts with any U-joint combo, good prices too.
I bought 3 from them already.

[Cliff R]

I'm not overly fond of aluminum IF you spend a lot of time at the track with perfect traction, but some folks do OK with them.

I'm assuming you have upgraded the diff to 1350? If so there are a LOT of options to purchase a 1350 TH400 slip yoke. I use the expensive one on anything we get involved with here and upgrade to 1350 on the diff. At that point all you have to do is to lower the car off the jack stands and put the weight down on the tires.

Shove the slip yoke into the transmission as far as it will go. Pull it back 3/4" and measure "eye to eye" on the U-joints. Provide that measurement and the slip yoke you used to the shop building your driveshaft. I used to use a place over in PA in Coraopolis but not even sure if they are still in business. They used and recommended thin wall high strength steel vs aluminum for drag racing and to date we've never had a single issue with anything they did, even on the 9 second Chevy and Pontiac powered cars we've set up.

I also use and recommend Brute Force" joints and even with those in place you need to keep an eye on them and replace them if/when they develop any play in any direction........Cliff

PS: there are companies that do this sort of thing and you don't have to supply any parts. As an example here is a link to one I saw on Ebay. It's just an example I've never used their services but it does explain what they use/recommend and how to measure if you aren't supplying the slip-yoke:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Custom-High...MAAOSwJXxcWx5I

[torqhead]

Thanks for everyone's feedback, will share what I end up with in the end for the conversion. My diff is already 1350 and I plan on doing the same for the yoke.