[Norwood]

Everything looks so good

[455hota]

Can I assume Bob that this method when you get to the floor jack stage under the lower control arm, will only work if the sub frame is installed in the car with some weight pressing down ? If the sub frame is separate, won't the floor jack just raise the whole sub frame and not push up only the lower control arm?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Formulabruce]

Originally Posted by 455hota

Can I assume Bob that this method when you get to the floor jack stage under the lower control arm, will only work if the sub frame is installed in the car with some weight pressing down ? If the sub frame is separate, won't the floor jack just raise the whole sub frame and not push up only the lower control arm?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I will see if I can explain it , as I have done many this way. The Subframe can be on a set of saw horses, the "jacking bolt" and washers are through and on top of the SHOCK hole
The "hooks ( which are angular so they match the curve of the spring angle) are inside the spring, threaded on the jacking bolt. YOu use a Impact Gun ( oil on threads) to tighten the "hooks" and pull them towards the top of the shock tower, making sure your spring is "clocked" into the Grove for it. This pulls the spring up enough to swing the lower A frame up and connect it to the spindle. If you use a thick ratchet strap under the A frame for safety youll Not scratch anything.
You can also use 2 sets of hooks and squeeze the spring together ( loading it with a lot of tension), then slide the unit up into the shock tower and connect the A Frame, then unscrew. This second way , to me is a bit more dangerous having all the energy in your hands and not much chance for a safe escape if something ( made in china) broke. ( Hex end of threaded rod goes Down for this type of install)
Fact, Springs in later 70's, Brand new, On the Transport, had little to Zero paint, and had scratches in a few spots too)

[njsteve]

The old timer methud for installing springs in an empty frame was to wrap a chain around the bottom of the floor jack and the top of the frame rail and lock the loop of chain in place with a minimum of slack. This way when you start to lift the subframe with the jack, at a certain point the chain will be be fully extended with no slack and the jack will now start compressing the control arm and spring.

[455hota]

Thanks for the clarification. The jack is truly just lifting the lower control are in to place. The compressed energy of the spring is held in place by the spring compressor. The floor jack is not doing any additional compressing of the spring. I understand now. This method would have helped a lot when I di mine a couple years back!!! Thanks!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Formulabruce]

Originally Posted by 455hota

Thanks for the clarification. The jack is truly just lifting the lower control are in to place. The compressed energy of the spring is held in place by the spring compressor. The floor jack is not doing any additional compressing of the spring. I understand now. This method would have helped a lot when I di mine a couple years back!!! Thanks!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What Steve was talking about Is OLD SCHOOL, , and NO spring compressor !!, The floor jack was the compressor !! . Yes chain scratches the frame, but holds it in place. I have done it many times this way. The spring starts out with a big "Bow" in it, till the jack gets it "Squished " a bit.

PS. RENTING a OEM internal spring compressor used from up top ( one set of hooks) is FREE at auto zone ( $50.00-$100.00 deposit till returned)

[njsteve]

That was the way they taught us at Denver Automotive and Diesel College back in 1980. So I am officially Old School, with the diploma to prove it! ;-) They did also advise us to use a second section of chain looped through the coil and frame to prevent it the coil from flying out and killing you if it sprung out of the pocket during the process. (a common occurence).

[Bentwheelbob]

The subframe was strapped to the lift as shown in the pictures below. Using this method the jack is providing significant lift to compress the springs. You only use the compressor enough to get the spring in the pocket and then let the Jack provide the rest of the energy needed to compress the spring enough to get the spindle on. The Jack is much more controlled and safer than the spring compressor. I can't imagine doing it the other way with a fully cocked and loaded spring in your hands. This method took about 30 minutes each side.

[Bentwheelbob]

Wheels are on. Barring some unforeseen problem the drivetrain and subframe should get reunited this weekend. I'm ready to get this done and move onto the next phase.

[Formulabruce]

Looking Great Bob!! wow, a sure motivation to the rest of us !

[The Boss]

Just so nice!

[Bentwheelbob]

Well, a lot got done today and the drivetrain is now reunited with the subframe. It all went pretty well with no casualties, bruised egos or broken parts. There are a couple small touch ups needed, but extremely minor. The biggest problem we had was the weld nut on the left motor mount had damaged threads, so we ended up having to pull the motor after getting it set, removing that mount and tapping the hole. There was no way to do it in place. We did weinie out on trying to support the fully dressed engine and trans from a lift plate mounted to the aluminum intake. Maybe unnecessarily, but better safe than sorry. Here's a few pics along with greetings from MPD.

[RamAir]

A work of art, cheers to the master flipper

[charles bledsoe]

Beautiful work Bob/Dave! Your attention to detail is amazing. Do you follow any documentation for type of plating, or color/shade of paint for the various components and fasteners? I have thought in the past to do research on different plating and paint used, but it looks like you really put a lot into making sure anything painted or plated has the right color/sheen applied. Just currious if this is all written down somewhere, or wether you had to research every nut, bolt, and component as you restored each piece.
Thanks. I save your pics as a reference....even the ones of MPD

[PureSD]

Love your clean shop Bob. Your and Daves work looks fantastic.

[bird72]

Bentwheelbob's car world is like an alternate universe of perfection and toys... I love peeking in.... nice job on latest....... I keep looking for like an oil spill to point out, never happens....

[Bentwheelbob]

Thanks for the kind comments. I confess to being slightly OCD. Believe me there have been plenty of messes, but generally the largest problem is dog hair. RamAir would call that a First World problem, and rightly so.

I need a little help here on some clips for the transmission. I have attached below a picture from the assembly manual. What I am looking for are clips 2, 3, 5, and 7. I see that Ames lists clip 5, but can't find the others. Clip 2 looks like something the could repurposed from under the hood perhaps. Clips 3 and 7 seem very specialized though.

Does anyone have: 1) A source for these; 2) Used ones they would part with; or 3) a good picture showing these clips?

Thanks for any help, and again, thanks for the kind words.

[Pepi]

Bob,
I see #2 is the same as the 73's according to the manual. I would post pictures of mine, but I figured you have your 73 to compare it to.

Also, look at page 8D4. That was a reference I was thinking of in your 73 thread that shows the evap hose routing under the compressor instead of over it like I saw in one of your pictures. Not saying yours is totally wrong, we all know how these manuals aren't always followed.

[Held for Ransom]

http://www.forums.maxperformanceinc....d.php?t=789861

[Held for Ransom]

Inline Tube sells retainer #3 and clip #5. Can't comment on quality.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=190908903327
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=181201763934