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#81
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I did some online searching, but I did not come up with a good schematic to show the wiring. It sounds like the module might be the cause of your problem.
I can't confirm it is correct, but I found a post were someone said that they were able to use a 4th Gen Firebird Module with the 3rd Gen Headlights and wiring. If it is a module that you need, it may be easier to find a 4th Gen Module. |
#82
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When I first cooked up this mod I experienced the same problem.
The picture below (clip from the TA wiring diagram) carries important information. The input to turn the lights on and off needs to provide voltage for ON and ground for OFF. Simply floating or disconnecting the input will not close the doors.
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68 GTO ragtop 91 T/A 69 XKE |
#83
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Quote:
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#84
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Quote:
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#85
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Joel mentioned he couldn't find a diagram of the board, so I'll post this one. The scribbles are what I did to make the board work in the GTO.
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68 GTO ragtop 91 T/A 69 XKE |
#86
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I just checked my car and the wires to the control module are connected as I described in post #44.
The 2 Orange wires connect through seperate 15 Amp Fuses to the battery(constant +12V) The Black wire connects to ground. The Yellow and Brown wires are connected together and then connect to the wire that feeds the Low Beam Headlights +12V when the lights are switched on. I think this wire also provides the ground(through the headlight filaments) when the headlight switch is off. Bob, what do you have the module's Yellow and Brown wires to connected to on your car? |
#87
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Quote:
If you turn the headlights off (and the doors don't close) try grounding this wire. If the doors then close, you just need a better ground for the module to sense. You may try putting a resistor at this point on the controller box, tied to ground. Try a 1Kohm, 1W resistor.
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68 GTO ragtop 91 T/A 69 XKE Last edited by fyrebird68; 03-20-2012 at 08:32 AM. |
#88
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Hideaway assemblies - repop
I posted this in the body section, anyone seen this issue before?
http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=693335 |
#89
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Slowing down the hideaway motors
I've seen in other post where comments were made about how fast these motors open and close the hideaway assembly. I too thought it was a little aggressive, so I searched out and got some feedback from George that's here on the board that seems to have a lot of knowledge.
I pulled some tests and my results were if you want to slow down the motors you will need to install 6 ohms (5 ohm and 1 ohm) worth of resistance into one of the wires that go from the control box to the motor. I used the green wire on each, but it shouldn't matter which one you use. I also used resistors that were rated for 10 watts. This made a significant difference in the speed. In my case if I went higher than 6 ohms the motors wouldn't run. |
#90
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For those of you that may be interested I'm attaching a link to a video of the operation of my hideaway's. End result is I added a spring to slow down the travel when they are opening so the doors wouldn't slam so hard. I then had to change the resistance to apply a bit more power, basically I'm running 2 ohms now.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B-78eEvq2QM |
#91
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Your modification does appear to make the movement less harsh.
I watched the video, but did not see the springs. What springs and where/how are they mounted. |
#92
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Here's some snapshots, also I circled an adjuster (positive stop) that we added to enable getting the doors lined up with the grills much better than without them.
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#93
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I just bought a sweet 69' GTO but it has exposed head lights and I personally think the hide away lights look soo much better. I looked around for the parts I needed and couldn't find anything on line (Which is rare, you can find anything you want on here! lol) any help would be appreciated...
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#94
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some more pics
I have the front bumper off to repaint it. While I had the headlight doors and grills out I took a couple of shots of the headlight motor mounting, since that is where I get the most questions. You can see the rectangular black steel plate holding the motor to the core support.
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68 GTO ragtop 91 T/A 69 XKE |
#95
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I never paid that much attention to the Ames catalog until recently, due to the merger, and was surprised to find they offer a complete conversion kit to electric hide-a-ways. But there's no mention of it in this topic unless I missed it. Has anyone here purchased it and if so, how do you like it? It also says not for A/C cars? Kind of interested in this, would be nice to hear some feedback.
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GREG'S GOATS: 1970 GTO Judge RA-III, 4-SPD & A/C. Power Windows, Power Seat, Power Brakes, Steering, AM/FM, 8-Track, Formula Wheel, Rallye Gauges, Remote Mirror, Numbers Matching. Assembled at Pontiac, MI Plant 5/26/1970. 1968 GTO 461 CI, RA-III heads, Hotchkis springs, UMI suspension, Bilstein shocks, 12-bolt 3.73's. 1966 GTO Ragtop 4-Speed, AM/FM, Original driveline. |
#96
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Oh may bad, I did find this from years ago....
http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...7&postcount=31
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GREG'S GOATS: 1970 GTO Judge RA-III, 4-SPD & A/C. Power Windows, Power Seat, Power Brakes, Steering, AM/FM, 8-Track, Formula Wheel, Rallye Gauges, Remote Mirror, Numbers Matching. Assembled at Pontiac, MI Plant 5/26/1970. 1968 GTO 461 CI, RA-III heads, Hotchkis springs, UMI suspension, Bilstein shocks, 12-bolt 3.73's. 1966 GTO Ragtop 4-Speed, AM/FM, Original driveline. |
#97
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Just read this thread and found this two motor kit on Jegs. Has anyone tried this system and if so how did it work???
Thanks for any input and or thoughts on direction. |
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