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#81
10-05-2005, 04:23 AM
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You guys have me thinking now....SCAT Rods are $449.00, Crower's are close to $700.00...some Forged 'H' Beam Rods on E-Bay are available for $229.00/set, but how good is the wieght and machine work???
what the budget Pontiac enthusiast needs is an affordbale rod made by a reputable firm in the US...not a chinese forging with substandard machine work. Hmmmmm.......Robert |
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#82
10-05-2005, 10:33 AM
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Robert,my $300 H beam Cat rods were right on as far as weight.2 of the rods big ends were a "touch" tight for my builder,was NBD to take care of the problem.Tom
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#83
10-05-2005, 02:09 PM
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Tom S: Do you recall the bobweight amounts on your CAT Rods??? The 455 I am working on will be a 6500 rpm motor with lots of airflow. I believe it needs a forged rod. I would like to compare your bobweigt figures to the blueprint specification of a stock connecting rod...Thanks...Robert
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#84
10-05-2005, 02:12 PM
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FWIW: The standard length aftermarket H-beam replacement rod is over 100 grams lighter then a stock Pontiac cast rod.
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#85
10-05-2005, 02:18 PM
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Robert,I dont have the numbers anymore.They were for a street driven 421 SD engine in a alu 63 Cat.ALL my high HP engines use Carillo rods except for my short deck V engines which use BME ALUs.Tom
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#86
10-05-2005, 08:26 PM
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100 grams???? That's a serious rebalance issue. Sounds like a severe case of Mallory Metal.
Early Chrysler Hemi Rods weigh around 860, the same as a stock cast Pontiac rod. I still have several sets of those...Robert |
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#87
10-06-2005, 07:43 AM
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Robert,
The H beam rods are lighter, so that means drilling holes to balance. No Mallory metal required. |
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#88
10-06-2005, 08:59 AM
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Yes the crank has to be drilled to compensate for the drecreased weight of the rods. As well, if you use a quality piston such as a Ross, the weight saving are even more substantial when compared to a stock rod and TRW piston.
Decreased rotating and reciprocating wieghts free up a lot of power, allowing the engine to spin up easier and faster. My Eagle H-beams were 760 grams. |
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#89
10-07-2005, 08:46 PM
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I stand corrected on the Mallory Metal Issue. I would much prefer if someone made a standard configuration Forged Rod that was a drop-in item...Robert
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#90
10-08-2005, 09:28 PM
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U want a new heavy forged rod?
Why?
__________________
https://www.flickr.com/photos/197745168@N07/ "Of all ignorance, the ignorance of the educated is the most dangerous. Not only are educated people likely to have more influence, they are the last people to suspect that they don’t know what they are talking about."Thomas Sowell |
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#91
11-27-2005, 03:51 PM
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I have 2 engines at the machine shop right now a 69 GTO RA IV WW 4 speed engine and a 69 Firebird WQ RA III 4 speed engine.
I am really torn on what to do about connecting rod selection! My machinist is happy with the stock rods polished beams and shot peening that has been done to all rods including new ARP bolts. Considering a stock RA IV is making peak HP at 5700-5900 RPM with stock 041 camshaft I feel that I should walk from my stock rods and buy Eagle or Cat rods. My machinist states Eagle rods have too much connecting rod side clearance .028-.030" where stock rods have .015".Do all Eagle rods have this much clearance and will this be a problem? What about Cat rods do they also have big connecting rod side clearance? I will be running Ross forged pistons in both cars and both cars are factory equipped with 3:90 gears. Would love to hear everyone's feedback Thanks Rich |
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#92
11-28-2005, 02:53 PM
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My $0.02.
I have a 69 Le Mans with 200,000 miles on stocks rods. It is a 350 2V rebuilt at 100,000 no problems. However for the 455 I am going to replace the 350 with I am going to go with forged rods and pistions. Now I plan on building a mild to heathly street engine but with 455's getting harder to come by I would rather spend the money up front and have a bottom end that can handle any changes I may want make in the future. If I had a numbers matching RA III/IV block I would do the same. |
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