[silverbullet07]

Originally Posted by Held for Ransom

HWY,
I looked at Post #14. Do you know how the adjustable unit works? I was thinking there were 3 separate units of this single unit (been a long time since owning/replacing a clutch).

Here is a good explanation.
http://www.classicindustries.com/pro...rts/16505.html

[HWYSTR455]

Originally Posted by Held for Ransom

HWY,
I looked at Post #14. Do you know how the adjustable unit works? I was thinking there were 3 separate units of this single unit (been a long time since owning/replacing a clutch).

I've never used one, since it adjusts to one of the 3 available fixed height ones, I would always just use the fixed height one I needed. But, here's a shot from the McLeod catalog, and it shows 2 spacers. So no spacer is the lowest height, one spacer is the middle height, and 2 spacers is the tallest height.

I would still recommend using a fixed height throw out. It's very rare that one of the 3 fixed height ones won't work, and it's very rare one of the two factory pivot balls won't work. If I recall correctly, the long pivot ball is for pre-1967 bell housings, the short is for '68-up, but don't quote me on that.

I've seen adjustable pivot balls fail.

.

[Held for Ransom]

Originally Posted by silverbullet07

Here is a good explanation.
http://www.classicindustries.com/pro...rts/16505.html

Thanks, but I don't think I like that set up (probably just me).

Back to topic.
Post #12 asked which kit you used. This was important as the kit for a '66 (tines lay flatter) is different than a '70s kit. And, was the TO bearing to fork inserted correctly?
http://s7d9.scene7.com/is/content/GenuinePartsCompany/1550250pdf?$PDF$

[Held for Ransom]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

I've never used one, since it adjusts to one of the 3 available fixed height ones, I would always just use the fixed height one I needed. But, here's a shot from the McLeod catalog, and it shows 2 spacers. So no spacer is the lowest height, one spacer is the middle height, and 2 spacers is the tallest height.

I would still recommend using a fixed height throw out. It's very rare that one of the 3 fixed height ones won't work, and it's very rare one of the two factory pivot balls won't work. If I recall correctly, the long pivot ball is for pre-1967 bell housings, the short is for '68-up, but don't quote me on that.

I've seen adjustable pivot balls fail.

.

I agree.

[HWYSTR455]

Originally Posted by Held for Ransom

Thanks, but I don't think I like that set up (probably just me).

Back to topic.
Post #12 asked which kit you used. This was important as the kit for a '66 (tines lay flatter) is different than a '70s kit. And, was the TO bearing to fork inserted correctly?
http://s7d9.scene7.com/is/content/GenuinePartsCompany/1550250pdf?$PDF$

Yeah, the bearing was installed correctly, you can see it in the pic in post #16.

I commented on the bearing types too, depending on tines, how the edge of the bearing needs to be rounded. The difference between pressure plates, or tines, kind of doesn't matter, as long as you have the correct height throw out.

99.999% of the time, it's a throw out issue. And just about the same percentage, I've seen the listing for the bearing in parts catalogs wrong.

.

[1967Tempest]

I fought this for months! My wife's left leg was definitely getting a work out!

I fought the entire system and ended up getting the adjustable ball stud and a new TO bearing!!! Using the TO bearing that you have with a non adjustable ball studd the clutch would never disengage...

Here is a picture of the stuff you have with the rod adjusted all of the way out..



Differences in ball height..



TO bearing heights..



Highest ball height installed..

[HWYSTR455]

That throw out bearing in the middle of that pic is one of the type that is used with flat tine/finger pressure plates. The one to the left is generally used for borg & beck style.

When a ball stud is too long, you can 'over-throw' a clutch, and go past center, which can make it hang.

.

[1967Tempest]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

That throw out bearing in the middle of that pic is one of the type that is used with flat tine/finger pressure plates. The one to the left is generally used for borg & beck style.

When a ball stud is too long, you can 'over-throw' a clutch, and go past center, which can make it hang.

.

Very true as it happened when I had the ball stud maxxed out. I settled on a nice mid point on the ball stud and the center TO bearing.

This what I used when I put the Saginaw 4 speed in the car. Which worked perfectly when I replaced it with a TKO500.

Consequently, I used the exact same set-up when I swapped the 67 Tempest Wagon over to a 4 speed. I used the same parts etc.. and it worked on the first try. My wife was relieved as she only pushed the pedal like 5 times and it was set.

[Rugratman]

Somewhere in the archives here are my struggles with this as well.

Toss is an aftermarket part, and the geometry went wacky.
I used these for the push rods...they worked wonders.
http://www.speeddirect.com/index.php...ucts/rod-links

[JSPONT]

Originally Posted by F ROCK

I've installed the trans again. this time i removed the rubber fork boot, and found that
the fork bottoms out against the back of the fork opening before the clutch disengages.
so I guess I will have to "cook that chicken" with a bigger bearing after all; but again I wonder what is different that the stock bearing is too small?

The longer ball could be enough, but the middle throw out bearing look like the one I use, told you you narrowed it down!!!You will be rowing gears in no time now.

[GOAT WHORE]

This tilton hydraulic throughout bearing eliminates all your issues. Call Modern drive line for a kit next time.

[JSPONT]

Originally Posted by GOAT WHORE

This tilton hydraulic throughout bearing eliminates all your issues. Call Modern drive line for a kit next time.

It's not just a bearing, you need to modify your clutch pedal, add a resivoir... the kit will cost you an arm and a leg. You can adapt some junk yard parts out of a newer car, but still is not simple and cheap.

[GOAT WHORE]

Yes, sometimes you will even need a .250" spacer plate and might have to shorten the drive shaft as well. Ask me how I know.
Love it though!

[F ROCK]

does anyone have the dimentions or part number for the center bearing in 67 tempest's photo?

[F ROCK]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

Look at post #12 and #14.

EDIT: Sorry, I was showing frustrations again, my bad.

.

it's all good, I was showing mine too.
i'm glad you've responded to help me.

thanks again everyone.

[1967Tempest]

The bearing is a timkin part #1377C

[F ROCK]

thanks Dave, I've ordered one!

[F ROCK]

ok. the bearing is in, trans installed, and the clutch is disengaging now. awesome.
still seems like I could've used an even bigger bearing tho, because my shaft is adjusted almost fully out, and the fork is about 1/8th inch from bottoming on the bellhousing again.


do I need a different brake pedal pushrod? I used the one from the automatic setup, but the pedal seems real low. lower than it was.

still have to find a drive shaft, I have the yoke tho.

does anyone know exactly how long the driveshaft would be for a 71 GTO w/ Muncie.

[pugslyx234]

I think the drive shaft is 56.5 center cap to center cap, not including the yoke.

[rustedgoat]

Im pretty sure the driveshaft from a th350 equipped 71 lemans should work with an m20 and m21, the m22 had the larger th400 yoke.