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#101
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Karl,
The white stuff is the sand that didn't end up in my ears, hair, shoes, pockets etc. I sand blasted the firewall and the stuff between the firewall and the windshield. Not cold enough in Fl for it to be snow. |
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#102
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gene,
I did read the post and saw the fla address... just kidding... there is a rule about sand in your car after sandblasting. the rule is 'there's always more'. karl |
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#103
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Update,
Well for some reason I haven't been able to get much done recently. I did get the other body down from its perch and got the good body in the garage. With welding class 2 nights a week, and teaching one night (thats 3 nights), and the rain weve had, I feel like I'm standing still. I've got all the pans in that I am going to replace (I think). I am going to replace all the floor pans and the trunk, the drivers rear wheel well, and the two lower qtrs. It sounds like a lot but is nothing compared to what I would have had to replace on the other body. I cut the dash out as it had some holes up close to the windshield and since I have a good dash and windshield channel from the chunk of car I bought for the first body. I am going to try to take the dash and channel out as one piece and weld them into this one. I cleaned up underneath the dash and gave it a coat of Rust encapsulator. Now there realy was not a lot of rust but with all the nooks and cranneys (sp?)under there I didnt want to take the chance that rust would pop its ugly head. I guess thats about all for now. I'll keep you posted. the dash before |
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#104
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after
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#105
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cleaning up under the dash
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#106
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rust sealed
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#107
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While the dash is out, front floor pans will be next. I'll have a little more head room to work with.
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#108
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I went through that once. You did a lot nicer job than I did.
I was just thinking the other day about a '66 Tempest I have in my back yard with a PERFECT dash in it and that I would cut it out and sell it but if I ever needed another dash, I would be screwed because I know how hard they are to find in good shape. |
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#109
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Mr_GTO
If you ever decide to cut it out & sell it I really could use it! For whatever reason, the dash area on my 67 GTO is the worst area on my car. I bought the patch panel from PY to try to repair mine, but the rusted-out area is larger than the patch panel Ron
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Another Red Light Nightmare ![]() 1966 Martinique Bronze 2+2 428 tri-power auto, black top & bucket seat interior, pass recliner, ATC, Cruise, AM FM, Reverb, Wood wheel, tilt, ps, pb, pw 1966 Catalina, Barrier blue with a white vinyl top, tilt, AC, ps, pb, bucket seats with console 68 428 4 bolt, 4 speed M20 and a 66 tri-power project. Semper Fi |
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#110
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Well I started cutting floors and replacing pans. It's taken two pans to get used to this cheap welder and the pictures are EXTREMELY kind to my welds. I found the wire feed is inconstant and it was making me crazy but I think me and the welder are now on the same page. Four more pans inside to go, and then the trunk and wheel well.
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#111
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My first floor pan ever.
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#112
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Front and back
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#113
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rear pan
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#114
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Well, you're getting there.
![]() No better area to practice on. Unless you do it on someone elses car I mean, like a Chevy.
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I'll be back... |
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#115
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Well you're making good progress, If you can afford it get a good gas/wirefeed welder. With as much welding as you still have in front of you it would be worth it. My friend has a welding supply and he offered me a Hobart at just about cost, which is the same thing you can buy one for with buyitnow on ebay, delivered. Harbour Freight 50.00 solar welding helmet, best money you will spend. I did all the pans, qtrs, trunk and numerous patches on my 67 goat and went through about 14 spools of wire. The underside welding on the trunk is great fun, have some burn ointment handy. Make sure you take pics of the wheel well lower sections before you cut them out, these have to be fabricated prior to installing the trunk pan and inner lower qtr. Also take pics of the rear most part of the lower qtr prior to cutting, its a little tricky. My three piece trunk pans fit pretty well except where they mate to the wheel wells, it takes a lot of fitting and grinding and they still end up needing a lot of body caulk when it all over.
If you're not a good welder when it's done I guantee you will be a helluva good grinder. Good luck, Rob |
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#116
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Well it's been awhile since I wrote an update. This thing called life keeps getting in the way of my progress. Well the business trips, the lingering cold, the neices graduation from college, and the son's wedding completely across the country, are over, and I've had a little time in the past 3 weeks to do some work.
I took the fenders to the guy who will be doing the outside body work and he took 4 fenders and a set of patch kits and made two beautiful fenders. He's got the hood(s) now. I managed to get the driver side pans in and now the two under the rear seat pans are still to go inside the car. The trunk and fender well will follow. The welds are getting better as is the fit of the pans. I guess I'm learning something (maybe what i'm learning is to buy a car with NO rust). Anyway, here are a few pictures of the pans (some of the primer is still wet so they look a little blotchy.) I'm thinking I'll use eastwoods underhood black to finish them off once I've caulked everything. |
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#117
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another angle
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#118
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Well things are starting to get serious. I was installing the underseat pans when I discovered that I was not going to be able to just cut the sections out and replace small sections like I had first thought. There were some small rusted through areas all the way at the top of the pan. I took off the bracket that holds the package try braces and behind it was rusted through. I started looking around and figured that I wouldn't be able to replace this pan without first replacing the inner wheel well for that side, since I would have to try to get a tight fit between the pan and the well. Well there is part two of having to do more than I first thought. I thought just the rear section of wheel well would have to be replaced but when I looked real closely, the areas above the flat section between the rear seats and trunk pans had rusted through areas. (This seems to be the story of restoration, figure out what you need to do and then triple it. ) So I replaced my first wheel well (well half of one anyway). There is a lot of stuff attached to the inner wheel well so I didn't want to get into all that with my limited experience so I replaced the bottom half of the well. To make a longer story short, i'm pleased with the way it turned out. The fit between tot old and new is tight enough that I don't think anyone will notice it one I have everything cleaned up, cauked and painted, and the fit between the underseat pan and the well is pretty good. Se pics
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#119
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OK, I'm almost ready to yell UNCLE. I never realized just how much work (and tedious work at that) there is in doing body work on a project car. Seems everywhere I turn I find a little rust spot here, and a little one there, that needs to be taken care of. I finally finished the under seat pans. What a royal pain they are, with the seat belt anchors and the bracing for the package tray ( which I pulled from the other body since they were in better condition).
OK I've vented. What this means, is now all I have to do is the trunk pans and the car will be ready to have the underside cleaned and painted, and then put on the good frame and drivetrain. The body guy finished the hood (he is truly a magician) and it looks great. I need to clean up the doors and will take them to him next weekend. It's really getting much closer now and it's exciting to start to think about things like chrome shops, and upolstry etc, since those are the things i will be working on while he has the car for the outside body work and paint. Some pictures of the completed under rear seat pans |
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#120
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That's a h*ll of alot of work Old Goat!!
You are the Man... |
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