[njsteve]

Spent the weekend welding up the 15 extra screw holes in the firewall. I then used some chemical stripper to get all the burnt paint off from the original carb fire. I only removed paint where it was damaged. I am trying to leave as much of the original finish as possible. Next comes some red primer and some minor body work on the welded places. Thanks to all who provided the photos of un molested firewalls (in my other post).

Before welding...and after

[njsteve]

I also began reattaching a bunch of the drivetrain components: carb, fuel lines, a/c compressor, alternator, clutch bellcrank and backdrive linkage, etc.

[T/A Fanatic]

Great looking engine!!!!!!! If I may ask where did you get the idle stop solenoid on your carb. I can't find a replacement anywhere? Alan

[njsteve]

I finished the prep on the firewall last week and painted it over the weekend. I used the mask and spray bomb technique with Rustoleum Satin Black, which as you can see is pretty darn close to the original black on the outer cowl areas. I masked off the original paint on the outer cowl areas and just painted the center panel, keeping it within the original lower overspray line.

[njsteve]

Today I stripped the upper cowl area. It had several layers of fisheyed glossy black paint on it, so it had to go. I masked off the original caulking and used chemical stripper very sparingly. I then washed it all down with water followed by mineral spirits. The metal is surpisingly nice underneath. Once I get the cowl done I will finally be getting close to reattaching the subframe and drivetrain to the body.

[njsteve]

One of today's extraneous projects was removing the original shifter handle from the factory Hurst Competition Plus shifter so I could send the shifter out for a rebuild. More bonehead engineering: It seems a previous owner devised his own version of a shim to take up some of the slack from the worn out insulator that retains the stick. He jammed a 1984 penny alongside the shifter. It took about an hour of tapping, picking and chiseling to get the one cent piece out of there, just so I'd have enough room to slide the two feelergauges in to release the retainer tabs. I am beginning to believe that the Lord of Pontiacs up there seems to be getting a kick of throwing these little hurdles my way. Gotta love these weekly backyard challenges.

[GTO71]

Looks great, what kind of pressure are you using on the pressure washer. I can't wait to so mine,

[njsteve]

Dont know what pressure it ran, but I tried to use a wide spray tip. If the stream was too narrow it was actually cutting through the original undercoating in the rear wheel wells.

[njsteve]

I have the firewall and cowl top completely painted now. I followed the original overspray lines on the cowl edge:

[njsteve]

I also reinstalled the factory Hurst shifter on the M22. I had Peter Serio of Precision Pontiac rebuild it. He did an awesome job. It took one week, including shipping both ways! Turns out it was the original shifter dated from August 1971. When I took it apart it had all of the factory installed hairpin style clips and washers still intact, as well as the original rubber grommets. Pete's website is: http://www.precisionpontiac.com/contact.htm in case you need his services. He is the expert in Hurst stuff and I highly recommend him. I also sent out the handle to be rechromed. Got that back today. It was $45 and my local chrome guy in Newark, New Jersey did an excellent job - Flavio, of All Bright Metal Finishing (973) 371-8060. Took him 8 days for the job. He does a lot of show car stuff and is very reasonable and meticulous...and things are finished when he says they will be. (which is rare for a chrome plater these days)

[njsteve]

I spent the past week restoring the a/c evaporator housing. It even had it's original POA valve, dated September 21, 1971 still attached. Some gentle application of paint stripper and degreaser removed the years of gunk and overspray, leaving a very clean fiberglas housing. Even the original red paint inspection mark and the Harrision decal remained intact. I replaced the factory heater core as I was not about to trust the 33 year-old piece in there. I also replaced the a/c wiring harness as the original was melted beyond recognition and repaired with, of all things, aluminum foil and duct tape. Gee, no electrical shorts there!

[Gordy Doyle]

Damn that looks good Your making excellent progress. It pays to start with a good pallette doesn't it? Seems like you've run into very few snags
Gordy

[blue71ta]

Yes, looks great, keep the progress pics comin'!

[HWYSTR455]

You all have far too much free time on your hands!

[Pontiacmuscle]

Great Job Steve~!!

[Pontiacmuscle]

BTW Steve....Howd she look when you started this journey?

[Lloyd-TX]

Hey Steve:

I've been following your T/A resto with great interest (and admiration) for 6 months now, and all I can say is WOW!

Finally took the time to create a special folder and download ALL the pics - I'll certainly be referring to them when I restore BOTH of my Formulas.

Many, many thanks for taking the time to document your resto so well. I can only hope that mine will be anywhere near as nice as yours!

[njsteve]

Thanks for all the support! This website has been awesome for technical info. I have been trying to do all of the things myself so far (based on a lack of funding). The big dollar item will be the body work and the actual paint: the center of the trunk floor needs to be replaced, one driver's door skin (which I have yet to find) and a two inch rust spot on the passenger bottom rear quarter. Other than that its a great car in terms of solid original sheetmetal.

Here's are a couple photos of the "before" at 114,000 California miles, just to remind myself this was actually a complete car once. I should be bolting up the subframe this weekend if all goes well.

[weranc55]

Steve,

It looks like you might be missing some of the original wheels? What are you going to do. I have a full set of KN's that I would like to trade for some JW's. Just thought I would throw it out there. Great job on the resto. When I start doing my subframe this will be a great reference.

Thanks

Chuck

[njsteve]

I have a set of honeycombs that I will be putting on the '72. They are currently mounted on my Grandmother's '75 Esprit, which should have Ralleys. So I was then going to put the Ralleys from the 72 on the 75. Why can you use these? they are 15x7s.