[Garry Sr]

Originally Posted by NOT A TA

The GEN II Pro G-Braces are a common bolt on. I reinforced the UCA mount, added additional center triangulation upper braces, and added UCA stud support lower braces.

I'd be tempted to weld 9 studs to that flat bar running along the cowl, it'd clean it up a little bit

[NOT A TA]

Originally Posted by Garry Sr

I'd be tempted to weld 9 studs to that flat bar running along the cowl, it'd clean it up a little bit

There's another steel plate below the ledge that's used to sandwich the cowl shelf by bolting tightly. Here's a pic of all the pieces I used besides the GEN II Pro G-braces.

[Garry Sr]

Just did the front springs on my DD 73. Previous owner heated them to lower. Sure is nice not having to worry so much about speed bumps. Lower control arm bushings were totally trashed also. Car drives much better now.

[Garry Sr]

I'll throw in a shot of me testing the mini-spool while I'm at it



That was from a 10 or 20 roll with an automatic.

[NOT A TA]

Working on a 70 TA this week. Replacing all suspension, sway bars, steering, and installing solid body mounts & frame connectors.

[TTOP350]

Hoping my 70 shell hits the paint booth in a month or less.

[3tas4me]

Mine is still at the shop for the metal replacement. Don't have any fresh pics at the moment.

[Brewster]

Time to rebuild my M-22 due to a slight vibration at higher speeds (80+). I got a Master Rebuild kit from The Gear Box. I have never done one of these before before but looks pretty basic.
One of my buds sent me this link which tells it all.

http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/tra...-rock-crusher/

Brew

[necdb3]

Originally Posted by Brewster

Time to rebuild my M-22 due to a slight vibration at higher speeds (80+). I got a Master Rebuild kit from The Gear Box. I have never done one of these before before but looks pretty basic.
One of my buds sent me this link which tells it all.

http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/tra...-rock-crusher/

Brew

They are very simple rebuilds. If you have done mechanical work before, it will be easy. I would question if the vibration is coming from the trans though. Short of a bent Input shaft, I can't see you getting vibration without some other issues ( bad bearing, etc) but you would hear that.

Dave

[keith k]

I haven't had much free time for car project stuff this year, but did recently complete the re-finishing of my Formula's original JS wheels.
Putting trim rings on them will be painful...!

[eaglesan13]

Nice job Keith. Did you use the Eastwood's paints? They look shiny, what clear coat did you use.

Originally Posted by keith k

I haven't had much free time for car project stuff this year, but did recently complete the re-finishing of my Formula's original JS wheels.
Putting trim rings on them will be painful...!

[Judge273]

Very nice Keith...what's the process in detail you used?

[Brewster]

I hear you Keith they look awesome. I have to do my KR rims in the near future please do tells us what system or materials you used.
Thanks

[Pepi]

Keith, those look great. I have a set need to do for mine. Definitely let us know your process and materials. I am worried about doing anything from a rattle can and lasting.

Thanks,
Karl

[Judge273]

Never heard the rattle can stuff had lasting issues? Source?

[Pepi]

Originally Posted by Judge273

Never heard the rattle can stuff had lasting issues? Source?

It has just always been my impression and opinion that a two part mixture with hardener is better than aerosol cans. You can't mix the hardener in with them, so other chemicals can easily remove their paint. JMO

[keith k]

Originally Posted by eaglesan13

Nice job Keith. Did you use the Eastwood's paints? They look shiny, what clear coat did you use.

Thanks. No, I didn't use Eastwood paint - see below for materials. They aren't clear coated, either, but they did turn out shinier than I had expected. Oh well, the trim rings will cover up most of that. And when I get around to doing the rest of the car, it will probably be shinier than it originally was, too, so things will be in balance

Originally Posted by Judge273

Very nice Keith...what's the process in detail you used?

The process:
1) The de-bossed triangles on the spokes are always bumpy, rippled, and scored with die marks, etc. So I flat filed them down so the surface was as level as possible.
2) Had them dip stripped and e-coated at a place local to me.
3) Scuffed them with Scotchbrite pads, then sprayed them in urethane primer filler. Before hitting them with the primer filler, I taped over the stamped letter codes and dates, so they wouldn't get filled up with the primer and become unreadable.
4) Hand sanded all the surfaces to get the minor imperfections, trim ring scratches, etc. out of them (don't ask me why, since they're just going to get rings put back on them... it's an OCD problem I have).
5) A coat of primer sealer.
6) Scuffed again with Scotchbrite pads.
7) Painted the backside with a light grey 2K/urethane paint that I had mixed up in a rattle can at my local auto paint store. I picked a color by eye that seemed a close match to the color originally on the wheels. It was PPG 35413. For those that haven't used this stuff (picture of the can below), there's a button on the bottom of the can you push to start the mixing process. Once it's mixed, the paint can is only good for 24 - 48 hours. And it has isocyanates in it, so you need to use an appropriate respirator when painting with it. These paints flow nicely, and harden to a shiny gloss if the prep work is good.
8) Sprayed the front side coves in dark grey. I used Duplicolor wheel paint you can get at most auto parts stores (see picture below).
7) Masked off the dark grey and painted the argent silver on the spokes and outer rims. The argent silver was also 2K stuff I had mixed at the auto paint store. The PPG code for rally wheel argent silver is 8568.
8) Submit to quality inspector for approval....

[Transamric]

Originally Posted by Brewster

Time to rebuild my M-22 due to a slight vibration at higher speeds (80+). I got a Master Rebuild kit from The Gear Box. I have never done one of these before before but looks pretty basic.
One of my buds sent me this link which tells it all.

Brew

Well there's the problem,....it's upside down!!

[Dens71TA]

Waiting for the final pieces to come back from the painter. Car has been off the road for almost 7 years.

[Formulabruce]

Helping a friend fix his 70 Formy that was supposed to be "restored" but was somewhat hacked, especially the frame rails, Here is the Torque plate Out of the Pass side . The repop is NOT good and needs HOURS of beating into submission, adding holes, fixing other hole locations. Will "shoe horn" ( flange the cut end ) a new frame rail section in when this is done. YUp this car is painted