[Gator67]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

The wheels I have on there now are 18X9.00 5X4.75 @00 offset with 5.0" backspacing for the front, the rear are 18X10.00 5X4.75 @05 with 5.70" backspacing.

I have both front & rear lips rolled.

I also have the inner fenderwells in the front trimmed per Herb Adams method.

There is no seat belt bulge in the rear of my car. Or not enough to have to mod it.


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Just out of curiosity I'm wondering why you had to make those modifications to the front lips and fender wells...was it a function of the wheels you were working with (backspace), control arms, or something else? I only ask because we're running 18X10s with 6.25 backspace in the front of my son's 79 and didn't have to do any of that and have no interference and good turning radius. Just a stock subframe with Ridetech control arms (running 14" Wildwood Aero 6s).

[HWYSTR455]

Yes, at the time I rolled them, wheel selection was very limited. Once you go past a certain width & offset, tubular control arms are needed.

I may at some time change the wheels, but for now, it's what I've got, and am trying to finish the stalled project. Plan also to switch over to SpeedTech uprights.

Aero 6s are very low, and close to the rotor, so depending on the wheel, you can run them. Baer also makes a very low profile caliper, but they do have a wider body, so the go-to is the Aero 6, or now, the SX6R.

What wheels are on that 79?


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[Gator67]

We went with Forgeline (TA3), which are kind of spendy, but they're also made to order, so within limits, you can take wheel size/availability out of the equation when selecting suspension and brake components. On my last two projects I ordered wheels after most everything was installed so I had the opportunity to measure to determine the optimal wheel size, bs, etc. Forgeline asks for info on brakes, spindles, etc. to help ensure things will work, but lots of other factors can create interference or limit turning radius that folks don't always take into account--e.g., tie rod ends, upper control arms, ride height, etc.

[jhein]

So there. All I need is a spacer.

[HWYSTR455]

Originally Posted by jhein

So there. All I need is a spacer.

Again, with fixed caliper systems, using a wheel spacer means you need to also adjust the caliper.

Some brake systems, like ones that use off the shelf 'vette rotors, makes it difficult to replace wheel studs (depending on the hub). Some wheel studs are only available in specific lengths too, and you may have to trim them.

Many wheels base hub-outward dimensions on 4", and only the backspacing changes as wheels get wider. There's a reason for that.

Don't get me started on the whole 5x4.75/120.65 bolt patterns either. But generally, it's not an issue.

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[Joe-Touring]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

Again, with fixed caliper systems, using a wheel spacer means you need to also adjust the caliper.

Don't get me started on the whole 5x4.75/120.65 bolt patterns either. But generally, it's not an issue.

Why would a wheel spacer affect the caliper? I spose if you spaced the rotor out, but the wheel?

What’s the deal with imperial/metric? Isn’t that a direct conversion? I know that it’s sketchy to pop on 5x120 (ie BMW) wheels on there, but is there an issue with 4.75 vs 120.65?

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

But for the rear, options are limited for bearing packs.

A Ford type sealed bearing works, but side loads are not handled as easily/efficiently as is with a bearing pack.

I’ve been thinking about converting my 12 bolt to ford housing ends. I believe there are tapered bearings available to better handle side loading, would these also help with kickback?

[HWYSTR455]

Originally Posted by Joe-Touring

Why would a wheel spacer affect the caliper? I spose if you spaced the rotor out, but the wheel?

Not sure what I was thinking there, was probably drinking at the time! Heheh!

I’ve been thinking about converting my 12 bolt to ford housing ends. I believe there are tapered bearings available to better handle side loading, would these also help with kickback?

There's 2 Moser housing ends for 12 bolts, the 7900 and the 7900FM. The 'FM' one is 'flush mount', and is used with disc brakes, so you don't have to use the spacer that makes up for the backing plate.

Tapered bearings I believe are available for the Ford large bearing ends, but don't believe they will help with kickback, they require a slight amount of clearance. Newer ball bearing bearings are better than the older bearings that would wear (and in extreme conditions fail) faster than a tapered bearing.

Twice I've run into buying 120.65 listed wheels and the were not quit 120s or 120.65s, but that was in the 80s/90s.

And yup, when it comes to big(ger) brakes, it 'depends' on the wheel used. I have the C5/6 Koe3 setup all the way around on my A body with Bandit 18s, and it's very close to the 'spokes' on the wheel.


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[HWYSTR455]

I run the Raybestos Element-3 hybrid pads on the A-body, and really like them. They bite good when cold and manage heat very well, with little dust.

https://www.raybestos.com/element3-pads

I've tried a lot of pads, and IMO the Hawk's are overrated.

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[jhein]

Kore3 is closed this week due to a family emergency. Coincidentally, they are about 30 miles from me located less than a mile down the road from my car dude.

[HWYSTR455]

Drive your car over there after he gets back to work and talk to him about it.


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[b-man]

Moving thread to Suspension Tech.

[jhein]

Well, I've come around faster than I thought. After looking more at pictures of cars and looking at tire sizes and types, I've decided to go with 18" Rally II style wheels. I'll be sending the Year One wheels back. For tires it will be Nitto 255/45/18 front and 275/40/18 drag radial for the rear. So that will solve the traction problems, the PTFB parts will solve the handling problems and the bigger brakes will solve the braking problems.

[b-man]

Eighteens for the win!

I’ve been checking different tires on the Tire Rack and it’s amazing how many more choices you have for those compared to 17”, it’s not even close.

[jhein]

Originally Posted by b-man

Eighteens for the win!

I’ve been checking different tires on the Tire Rack and it’s amazing how many more choices you have for those compared to 17”, it’s not even close.

LOL. What it came down to was that with the 17", my rear tire would either be too tall or too short. With the 18" I can have a 26.7" tire which is good and my front will be 27.05" so that should give me a nice factory type stance.

And not only that but as I was typing this I remembered that Nitto also makes a 220 treadwear street tire in addition to a 100 treadwear tire that is a road racing DOT approved tire. Both are available in the same sizes I mentioned above. Those are called the Invo and the NT01, respectively. Good looking stuff.

[vertigto]

Yep...18". I came to the same conclusion. Good choice.

[b-man]

Originally Posted by Joe-Touring

What’s the deal with imperial/metric? Isn’t that a direct conversion? I know that it’s sketchy to pop on 5x120 (ie BMW) wheels on there, but is there an issue with 4.75 vs 120.65?

4.75”

120.65mm

They’re the same.

I’m actually running BMW-spec 120mm O.Z. Racing 18x9” 6.57” backspace wheels on my Tempest. The Moser axles were custom made as well as my front wheel adapters to accept the 120mm rear Z4 roadster wheels. They’re fairly lightweight for a cast aluminum wheel at 20.8 pounds.

[Joe-Touring]

Originally Posted by b-man

I’m actually running BMW-spec 120mm O.Z. Racing 18x9” 6.57” backspace wheels on my Tempest. The Moser axles were custom made as well as my front wheel adapters to accept the 120mm rear Z4 roadster wheels. They’re fairly lightweight for a cast aluminum wheel at 20.8 pounds.

Cool! From what I can recall, 20# for a 18x9 is stellar. Those 17x8 Cragar Soft8’s are close to 50# a wheel! My 326 was much happier when I swapped over to the Superlites, which are also around 20#. Not to mention the handling benefit.

Seems like you really gotta plan out your wheel/tire package to make everything play nice together.

[Joe-Touring]

To throw my 2¢ in, I’m running Kore3 C5 brakes all the way around and am quite pleased with the performance. Wouldn’t go with the Hawk HPS pads again, too dusty. Gonna go with the Hawk ceramics next time. Thought about getting the front hubs machined to fit the rotors, but decided to go with the Kore3 aluminum hubs. Nice pieces.

Bit the bullet and purchased the Kore3 e-brake setup, pricey, but very nicely machined and works great.

Went to Control Cables inc for the custom e-brake cables, shipped fast and rather inexpensive.

And as far as wheel fitment, 17x8 4.5 BS Cragar Soft8’s needed a small spacer up front, the caliper brackets hit the inner wheel face. I used a 1/4” spacer.

Currently have Trans Am Race Engineering Superlites in the same specs. Perfect fitment with no spacer.

[jhein]

I decided on the Nitto Invo for the front and NT01 for the rear. That should be a nice combo.

[JLMounce]

Any reason why you're not going with the NT01 in the front as well?

I've had Invo's and they are a nice tire. Quiet and comfortable with still a decent amount of stick. Their tread design picks up and flings rocks a good bit though.

The sidewall is a bit too soft for my taste, but it's designed for performance sedans where ride comfort is more important than lateral feel, so I get that.