[goatman65]

Okay that makes sense.

[Nicks67GTO]

Winter sucks and hopefully its about over! Its about 35 and sunny here today so iv'e been putting in door panels/plastics and a new lock kit. Ill throw some pics up later tonight!

[Nicks67GTO]

Ok here a couple pics of my door panel install.

New Legendary door panels, emblems, under plastics and arm rest bases. Also new windlace, lock knobs, and ferrules. I'm waiting for an NOS windlace cap for the passenger side from a forum member. I ordered new ones from Legendary and they are so far off its not even funny. They were not even remotely close. I just polished up the old door trim and from 2 foot away you cant see any of the scuffing/scratches etc....plus I drive the wheels off this thing so the heck with perfection??!! I also adjusted all the windows so they close tight on the weatherstripping, replaced all the locks, and made sure everything was tight under there. I'm pretty sure I found out where about 90% of my annoying squeaks and rattles were coming from. The last time I had the passenger door apart and put back together {10+ years ago} I must have forgotten to tighten everything past hand tight.....haha. Oh well glad I found it....Here's a couple shots of the panels. Also never mind the duct tape..... I had an old PUI package tray that wouldn't stay put....its going to get replaced eventually. HAHA

[Nicks67GTO]

Im going to rank some Legendary parts on a 1-10 scale...

-Front door panel...10 they are perfect

-Rear "door panel"..7 they look great installed and are perfect after some massaging but came with holes punched in the wrong spot and for the arm rest bases and no holes punched for the roll up window cranks??

-Front arm rest bases..8 They fit pretty good and the chrome is pretty decent

-Rear arm rest bases...5 The fit is meh, they're not quite level and the chrome is ok

-Rear windlace...10 fits perfect

-Rear windlace caps...-50000 they're not even close and they have a dull finish

-Door panel emblems...9 they fit great, look great but didn't come with mounting tabs?? I played hell trying to find tabs and the performance years tabs don't work

-Door panel plastics...10 spot on

[Greg Reid]

I give the overall look and workmanship.....10.. Looks great!

[Nicks67GTO]

While i'm waiting a couple of weeks for my seats to get done, i picked up a set of QA1 adjustable uppers with roto-joints on the CHEAP! I couldn't pass these up.

I might try to get these in tomorrow...

[imposter]

get these for the upper rear end housing

http://www.currieenterprises.com/ces...E.aspx?id=4018

[Nicks67GTO]

Originally Posted by imposter

get these for the upper rear end housing

http://www.currieenterprises.com/ces...E.aspx?id=4018

I might be doing that when i change frames. Im going to see how the johnny joints ride. If they are smooth, ill be changing them in the housing as well. After installing the new arms i can see where the geometry is off a bit. I talked to Ramey at UMI a long time ago and he told me that most factory frames are off from the spec'd geometry and that the johnny joints/roto-joints are the easy way to fix them.

[Nicks67GTO]

Nice day for some wrenching! I know its just uppers but i'm bored so here a bunch of pics. For the record, installing adjustable upper control arms with johnny joints is too easy. Yank the old stuff out, adjust your upper to be too short, get them in place and loosely bolted up and extend them to the 12.75" bolt to bolt starting point and tighten. There's no yanking and prying like there is with non adjustable stuff!

[old66tiger]

Hey Nick...looks good. How you like the Moser 9" What rear gear do you have?

[PurplePackFan]

Nick,

I have similar(if not the same) upper control arms going into my '67 from CPP. The instructions say to put grease fitting facing down. I test fit them and it sure looks like a lot of interference to get at the zerk. Which way did you install? Grease fitting up or down? Can't tell from the pix.

Thanks in advance.

[Nicks67GTO]

Originally Posted by old66tiger

Hey Nick...looks good. How you like the Moser 9" What rear gear do you have?

The Moser is a nice piece. Its thick and built like a tank. I bought the housing and axles through Moser. Then I got a Yukon center section, good for 1500 hp through Quick Performance out of Ames, Ia in a deal with a daytona pinion support and setup kit. Its stronger and cheaper than a Moser unit so its not a complete Moser. I then made a mistake by installing a detroit locker. I should have just put in a trutrac and been done. I don't like the locker at all. I had one in my Nova and it wasn't too bad but for some reason i don't care for it in the GTO at all. Maybe its the weight difference. Thats going to get changed out. I'm running a 3.0 rear gear but that's because of my richmond tranny. It's a 3.27 first gear, 1.24 4th gear and a 1:1 fifth. It acts like a M-21 and 3.73's through the first 4 gears and then its a 3.0 final drive 5th gear for interstate crusing. Iv'e got a bunch of pics if you're interested.

[Nicks67GTO]

Originally Posted by PurplePackFan

Nick,

I have similar(if not the same) upper control arms going into my '67 from CPP. The instructions say to put grease fitting facing down. I test fit them and it sure looks like a lot of interference to get at the zerk. Which way did you install? Grease fitting up or down? Can't tell from the pix.

Thanks in advance.

I put them in face up because it looked like there was more room...maybe i should be greasing them face down? I'll call QA1 Monday. Thanks for the heads up.

[PurplePackFan]

Thanks for the reply. I am leaning towards putting them up because there is more room. Facing down they are right on top of the lower frame crossmember section and I can't imagine getting at them for future lubrication. I don't think it matters to the joint, just a matter of accessability.

[Nicks67GTO]

Originally Posted by PurplePackFan

Thanks for the reply. I am leaning towards putting them up because there is more room. Facing down they are right on top of the lower frame crossmember section and I can't imagine getting at them for future lubrication. I don't think it matters to the joint, just a matter of accessability.

Regardless I had to buy the 90* end for my grease gun yesterday. I couldn't get even close without it. I spent more time trying to come up with that fitting than it took me to get the arms in.

[67GTO4SPEED]

Your project pretty much mirrors what I'm doing with mine. I am going for a car that has a stock appearing body, interior, and under the hood but with bigger wheels and better brakes and suspension. My original engine is long gone, but mine was a 400 HO, 4 speed, A/C car, and I'm going back with a stout 455 and eventually a 5 speed that will appear stock.

I'm looking forward to watching your car come together!

[GT182]

Originally Posted by Nicks67GTO

-Door panel emblems...9 they fit great, look great but didn't come with mounting tabs?? I played hell trying to find tabs and the performance years tabs don't work

Nick, go to Sears Harware [if you have one], Home Depot, or Lowes and take a look. I found some that worked for mine. Not like the originals but they did work. Made by Hillman: #6 Speed Nuts - Flat, 4 to a package.

[PurplePackFan]

Nick,

I got my rear end and control arms installed today. I ended up using 90* zerk fittings and placed them on the top of the upper joint. By the looks of it, with those fittings I should be OK to turn the top joint around and have them on the bottom, as long as they are in the axial direction of the arm. I guess the answer is to have them on the bottom, but you need to have the 90* zerks, which were not supplied. I plan on flipping them tomorrow.

I tried to post a pic, but am failing, miserably. I think you'll get the idea though.

[Nicks67GTO]

Originally Posted by PurplePackFan

Nick,

I got my rear end and control arms installed today. I ended up using 90* zerk fittings and placed them on the top of the upper joint. By the looks of it, with those fittings I should be OK to turn the top joint around and have them on the bottom, as long as they are in the axial direction of the arm. I guess the answer is to have them on the bottom, but you need to have the 90* zerks, which were not supplied. I plan on flipping them tomorrow.

I tried to post a pic, but am failing, miserably. I think you'll get the idea though.

Right on. That was my next idea if I couldn't find a 90* grease gun fitting.

[Nicks67GTO]

Originally Posted by GT182

Nick, go to Sears Harware [if you have one], Home Depot, or Lowes and take a look. I found some that worked for mine. Not like the originals but they did work. Made by Hillman: #6 Speed Nuts - Flat, 4 to a package.

I ended up swinging into a local supply house and finding some metric retainers that were a touch too big, so i flattened them out, turned them inside out and it worked pretty well. Why don't these badges come with proper retainers? That's like selling a can of spray paint without a nozzle?? WTF??!!