[4dblnkldude]

Use a small pipewrench to get the dowels out, works like a charm.

[David Jones]

I've had a little problem with a dowel pin. http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=693661Even before I could check the bellhousing alignment I needed to pull one of the OEM dowels. The passenger side dowel was in too deep for the motor plate and bellhousing to ride correctly on it. I could spin the dowel a little with vice grips but that was it. I drilled and tapped the dowel and tonight with the help of my handy dandy home made puller, I removed the dowel. 5/16 threaded rod, a washer, 2 nuts and a 5/8 deep socket. The dowel slid out easily. This dowel was 1 1/8" long and the dowel hole in the block is 7/8" deep. I've drilled and tapped the longer replacement and will probably put it in tomorrow. Maybe start checking the alignment? After I cut grass and wash my truck........

[grandville455]

good job David!

[David Jones]

Soooo, Keisler sent me the wrong flywheel bolts......

I discovered that after installing the bellhousing and trying to mount the magnetic dial indicator to the end of the crankshaft, unsuccessfully. It would stick but not in such a way that the indicator was 90 degrees to the bellhousing surface. So I take the bellhousing down and fit the flywheel and find that they sent me some course thread Pioneer bolts that are waaay to small, length and diameter.

[Stuckinda60s]

Originally Posted by David Jones

Soooo, Keisler sent me the wrong flywheel bolts......

I discovered that after installing the bellhousing and trying to mount the magnetic dial indicator to the end of the crankshaft, unsuccessfully. It would stick but not in such a way that the indicator was 90 degrees to the bellhousing surface. So I take the bellhousing down and fit the flywheel and find that they sent me some course thread Pioneer bolts that are waaay to small, length and diameter.

That's one of the worst things about running a Pontiac. Suppliers often send Chevy parts because they either don't know what to send or they assume they're the same.

[dracowizard]

Dave,seen your thread today and i had to read thru it as i plan to install a 5sp in my project65 which is a restomod GTO clone.This is the most serious and extensive effort i've ever done to a car,and i'm only a shadetree kinda mechanic!. I'm preparing the suspension for a modern ride by using aftermarket suspension parts and always had intention to install a 4sp.But all i ever got my hands on was a good saginaw unit and while it would serve the purpose of having a manuel,it's not like having a muncie.So wanting to drive my project and not just look at it,i've planned and saved a little to find me a 5sp.I've been looking into options for some time and being close to the Keisler Plant i felt that may be good since i may even be able to go pick up what i want.I'm yet to decide. I also want to use a Hydraulic clutch setup,but can't see the $$$ for their setup so i'm researching a way i may be able to use a slave to depress my clutch fork and maybe the Willwood MC.I'm learning it's a must to select a slave with enough extension to minimize hangup between gears. Wish i'd seen your post somewhat earlier as i modified my pedal housing using a needle bearing setup to help make pedal movement smoother.I'll continue to follow your post as it's good to see your results and also input from others. Heres a couple of pics to how i done my pedal housing just in case anyone else may ever wanted to do the same mod.I really am interested seeing how that MC you have mounts as i know it;s necessary to set at a angle to clear the brake booster. Thats seems the hardest detail for me to figure so i can tell what options to look for if the Willwood unit might not work.

[My442]

Draco,

Please post your part umber for the needle bearing.

Nice job!

[David Jones]

Draco, the Wilwood seems to have enough angle to clear the brake booster (I posted pictures of the Wilwood earlier in the thread)....will it be enough to clear the brake lines, I can't yet tell. I still have my brake booster pulled off the firewall 3 or 4 inches, with the pedals out. I hope to get the clutch m/c mounted to the firewall tonight and the pedals hung soon there after. At that point I'll be able to tell a couple of things.....

Will I have enough room to attach the hyd clutch pressure and reservoir lines to the Wilwood with the brake booster mounted back on the firewall?

Will the brake lines that cut behind/below the brake booster clear the clutch m/c and lines without alteration?

I spoke with Ben @ Keisler this morning and the correct flywheel bolts will leave today.

[dracowizard]

Originally Posted by My442

Draco,

Please post your part umber for the needle bearing.

Nice job!

Glad to,i bought a kit thats sold on MODERN DRIVELINE and is intended on use for mustangs,but the setup is very similiar with a GM pedal housing. One kit has just the bearings,but the kit i bought for about $50 has a new pin also and since mine was very pitted,i elected to install the new.I still have to tack a washer or other method to create a
"stop"on the clutch pedal side of the pin to restrict the pin from walking inward.You can see on a stock pin it has a collar for this reason.Everything fit great and i used a auto housing since the other had collars i would had to removed.Plus the auto one was in better shape.

The kit number is -- Stock# MD-504-1080 and about $58 shipped from

http://www.moderndriveline.com/catal...ct_catalog.htm
orders@moderndriveline.com

I willpost a couple morepics to help you identify the kit and also the install of the pin (which i will weld after i tack on the washer )

David,thanks for the info about the mount of the MC as i had seen the previous pics also. Hoping to piece together my own setup has me looking at every option i can find and studying/reading of others experiences.Good to hear your correct bolts are headed your way. I'm stunned such "hiccups" from this company after having read comments from Shafi Keisler himself when he posted on another forumn about his efforts to provide both quality products&service. So while i'm thinking of a RS600, i try to see how well others experince has been.Great Thread and glad to see you share your efforts,great stuff! Oh,heres some more pics of the clutch pedal mod.

[flat-bill]

I used the Wilwood master cylinder and a Speedway. 2 ear, pusher slave on my TKO600 setup in my '50 Merc. It works very well. I had the slave cylinder on the trans snout at the start and it blew the seal out. I may have done something wrong, but I am not sure. To replace the snout mount slave you have to remove the trans. No fun. No more of these for me. I have since read on the HAMB board that I am not the only one to have problems with these. Many do OK, but not me.

I have the 7/8 master cylinder, but they recommend the 3/4 and I am going to switch to that in the near future. I find this a really good system. Billk

[dracowizard]

Originally Posted by flat-bill

I used the Wilwood master cylinder and a Speedway. 2 ear, pusher slave on my TKO600 setup in my '50 Merc. It works very well. I had the slave cylinder on the trans snout at the start and it blew the seal out. I may have done something wrong, but I am not sure. To replace the snout mount slave you have to remove the trans. No fun. No more of these for me. I have since read on the HAMB board that I am not the only one to have problems with these. Many do OK, but not me.

I have the 7/8 master cylinder, but they recommend the 3/4 and I am going to switch to that in the near future. I find this a really good system. Billk

Thats interesting Bill.Thanks for sharing,i looked at that particuliar slave and i believe it to have the correct travel i would need which is 1.25".It has a 7/8" bore,so without having heard your xperience,i'd be tempted to choose a 7/8" MC as well.Does the Willwood MC you chose have the remote resevoir? Not sure of your reference of the HAMB board,but it'd be nice to read of others effort as well. Believe it or not,i've found various slaves very much similiar with the Speedway slave (but i buy a lot from Speedway also)and many are cheaper and their application a simple parts store stock item.Just haven't physically looked at any to question the travel.My plans for mounting is to make a plate to mount to my bellhousing,be it stock or a steel unit. Do you any pics of what you done?

David,i got a call from another Tremec Vendor today,not Keisler and after a brief conversation and discussion of some details i was given a ballpark qoute for what i may choose. A basic kit which would save me approx 40-50% on some add-ons such as back-up wire,neutral safety,yoke and a few other items was approx just under $2,500 w/free shipping!. The biggest concern i had then was the warranty. 6 months by Tremec/6mos by Vendor,but there was good flexability on those terms. So i want to speak with other Vendors,xpress my wants/concerns all while trying to save a dollar rigging my own clutch.....

as mentioned above,i'm no rocket scientest so a lot of my mods are trial&error+error+error

[flat-bill]

I used this master cylinder

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Wilwoo...-Kit,1133.html

and this slave cylinder

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Push-T...nder,1944.html

I don't have any pics of the setup. It is however on a Ford bellhousing, hooked up to a '56 Desoto Hemi. I got the adapter setup from Wilcap.

Here is a link to one thread on the HAMB board. You may find some info here or need to search for others. These guys can be a bit fussy and its best to do the introduction for newly registered users of the board. Lots and lots of info on many subjects.

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...archid=1723396

Good luck. Billk

[old66tiger]

I was going to go hydraulic but I chickened out with hammering the firewall to get the master to fit right. Also, I don't think that I could have gotten it to fit by my Hydratech booster. I run a heim joint mechanical clutch and it works very well. No binding and very smooth.

[dracowizard]

i had originally considered just doing a helm joint setup,but by my mechanica pcs being less than perfect,i felt if i try hard enough i can modernize my setup at a affordable price.
Appreciate thelinks Bill,i'll have to check the HAMB board and see what i can learn! I still wonder just how David MC aligns with the pedal.Anxious to see his progress installing the MC.

[David Jones]

Last night after the ballgame I installed the clutch master cylinder and the steering column plate it mounts with. It took a bit of fiddling but in the end it fits well. The plate that surrounds the steering column at the firewall is made up of 2 pieces. I left the right side plate attached to the firewall and removed the left side to mount the m/c to. The firewall has a punched hole in it that the m/c fits through behind that side of the plate. The m/c also has the same attachment hole pattern as the left side steering column plate. I simply drilled out the little cage nuts attached to the firewall and through bolted the m/c between the firewall and the steering column plate. Fit perfectly. Rough edges of the hole I cut? I started with a SO CALLED metal door cutting hole saw. It made it about half way through the plate and the blade was useless. Finishing the hole was tedious, to say the least. I tried a cut-off wheel, the jigsaw wouldn't fit and ended up drilling holes around it, knocking the center out and filing it smooth.

The clutch m/c appears to mount in such a way that the brake lines that run around and down behind the brake booster will just clear. I don't however see how I can attach the pressure and reservoir lines with the brake booster remounted. My crystal ball tells me that I'll be mounting it all up, removing the brake booster to do the final trans install, THEN hooking up the pressure line and putting the brake booster back in place. I won't be able to start the pedal hanging attempt for a couple of days. Trial fitting the brake booster back in place will be a "fingers crossed" kinda thing. I think it'll fit. It looks like it'll fit. They say it'll fit. Hope it fits..........



This is my clutch pedal attachment.......

[dracowizard]

Great update David.Those shots and info help me understand some of the things i have concerns about when installing such a system.I can understand the aggravation of having certain tools that don't work when you need them. It's interesting to see what method/order you find best for installing both the clutch MC & BrakeBooster plus hardware.Great Job!

[72LuxuryLeMansLa.]

"Rough edges of the hole I cut? I started with a SO CALLED metal door cutting hole saw. It made it about half way through the plate and the blade was useless. Finishing the hole was tedious, to say the least. I tried a cut-off wheel, the jigsaw wouldn't fit and ended up drilling holes around it, knocking the center out and filing it smooth."

Two things about drilling metal.

First thing to do is use cutting oil and second use a variable speed drill and turn the blade/bit as slow as possible. These two things will keep the heat down and help to keep the blade/bit cool and that will keep it sharp. I learned years ago that you can burn up a drill bit or hole saw within seconds at high speeds.

Karl

[David Jones]

Originally Posted by dracowizard

It's interesting to see what method/order you find best for installing both the clutch MC & BrakeBooster plus hardware.Great Job!

I came to that by what I see as required to install/bleed the slave/throwout bearing. The slave is attached to the trans already and I don't want to take it off to bleed it. To take it off and bleed the system (removed) would require me bleeding it and then sliding the slave through the firewall and feeding it down to the trans area, where it would have to fit the access hole in the side of the bellhousing. I don't think that the slave will fit either place. I'm going to install the bellhousing/trans as a unit with the high pressure line already attached to the slave and fed out the access hole in the bellhousing. I'll bolt the bellhousing/trans as a unit (with high pressure line attached to the slave already) to the block and then feed the high pressure line up to the clutch m/c. Then I'll bleed it. Wildcard? If the slave end of the pressure line leaks as I bleed it, then I gotta pull the trans to rectify it (unless I can fix it through the access window). If the brake booster and the clutch m/c are too close to allow reasonable access for installing the high pressure line to the m/c, then I'll have to leave the brake booster loose and away from the firewall as noted in my earlier post to hook it up.

[David Jones]

Originally Posted by 72LuxuryLeMansLa.

First thing to do is use cutting oil and second use a variable speed drill and turn the blade/bit as slow as possible. These two things will keep the heat down and help to keep the blade/bit cool and that will keep it sharp. I learned years ago that you can burn up a drill bit or hole saw within seconds at high speeds.

Karl

I did both Karl. I think this metal and a home doors metal are different animals. Different thickness, for sure.

[David Jones]

I got my bolts in. #912 Mr. Gasket. Fit Ford's and Chevy's........

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