[Formulabruce]

Originally Posted by 2manyT/A'S

Now don't go getting all excited........The Red Book is a decent reference guide,but there ARE some errors.......

Off the top of my head,some of the 72 #'s are just transposed from 71....AND... 4112 stick 78 Trans ams for 78 is NOT the gospel....according to John Witzke

yup its a reference to consider, not gospel, I agree

[2manyT/A'S]

Now here's a better deal....and it looks like the author is selling them...(it's a CD)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/FIREBIRD-RED...item5b0211b195

I'll bet he'll even throw in a FREE autograph.

Here is a used one...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Firebird-Red...item540b880ead

[Alvin]

Originally Posted by Held for Ransom

Or, an original...

Thxs for posting the early 1st editions cover. I've both versions in paperback...that alone should entitle me to a free cup of coffee?

Originally Posted by Formulabruce

Look at that Amazon price?? Wow!!
If anyone wants a copy of a page or 3 let me know...

Too funny! Thx for point out the ask $$$ I didn't even look @ that when I posted the link.

Originally Posted by 2manyT/A'S

Now don't go getting all excited........The Red Book is a decent reference guide,but there ARE some errors.......
Off the top of my head,some of the 72 #'s are just transposed from 71....AND... 4112 stick 78 Trans ams for 78 is NOT the gospel....according to John Witzke

Agree 100% IIRC some of the early 1st editions were misprinted and had duplicate yr coverage of some yrs, at same time other yrs info was missing...publisher offered free exchange replacement. Wouldn't be good if someone paid $650+ for one of of those!

Originally Posted by Formulabruce

yup its a reference to consider, not gospel, I agree

Exactly. IIRC The original intention was to have a pocket reference guide for use "in the field" to verify OEM equipment, etc. when it was originally published in the '90s there was no such thing as portable "tablets" smartphones, etc.

[Bentwheelbob]

Originally Posted by 2manyT/A'S

Now don't go getting all excited........The Red Book is a decent reference guide,but there ARE some errors.......

Off the top of my head,some of the 72 #'s are just transposed from 71....AND... 4112 stick 78 Trans ams for 78 is NOT the gospel....according to John Witzke

What has become of John Witzke? I have been continually referencing his '77 to '79 T/A 6.6 Historical Information. I ran into some of his posts here during a search or two, but it appeared he had not been active in 8 years or so.

[2manyT/A'S]

Not sure,but think his nose might have gotten out of joint when I posted that I didn't feel his current interpretation of 78 W72 T/A production figures was accurate...

[Held for Ransom]

Mr W72 was last logged in a little over a year ago. Maybe POCI is keeping his attention.

[Bentwheelbob]

Thx for the info. Someone with thin skin is destined to a short life here. When I said active, I meant posting, but perhaps even that wasn't 8 years. His historical write up is good for part numbers, especially for a newcomer like me that doesn't have them memorized yet.

Home from "work" and no heater core. I think I'll polish gauge lenses.

[Alvin]

Originally Posted by Formulabruce

yup its a reference to consider, not gospel, I agree

Yeah, but I'm partial and I like that "4,112" W72 4-spd #

Anyone else have one of those old Trans Am production numbers posters like I do?

I had it professionally mounted and framed before all of the "expert" number crunching said it 'twas incorrect.
(It's right under a mounted and framed "Traveler in Time" T/A poster)

Can't wait until someone comes out with "official" revision of 1979 W72 4-spd Y84s that says more than 1,107 of those were made...
Guess that'll be time to scrap it or "LS it" like all the current hipsters?

No worries. Just having some fun "with the numbers"

[Held for Ransom]

Originally Posted by Alvin

Anyone else have one of those old Trans Am production numbers posters like I do?

Nope. I do have a Corvette poster though.

[Held for Ransom]

Originally Posted by Bentwheelbob

Still looking for the elusive EFE/EGR valve.....

Posting a picture of a broken one (3039491, Blue, 4 port, 120 degree), plus a 1978 301 unit (3039492, Black, 4 port, 135 degree).

[Bentwheelbob]

HFR - that poster looks pretty like it is pretty nice. Is the Trans Am poster the same in that it shows a picture of each model? Thanks for the pictures of the EGR valves.

I got the main gauge lens polished tonight. It wasn't in nearly as bad shape as the Black Car, but it had plenty of scratches and hazing. Probably because it wasn't scratched as bad (and because I was in a hurry), I didn't sand it as aggressively and it did't polish out quite as good. It still looks a whole lot better, but it isn't quite perfect. Mini Me came out to the garage when I was finishing looking for a basketball partner and she ended up remounting it in the dash. Pretty cool...

The other day I bought a W72 intake and carb combo. It had several pieces I needed, and gives me an extra carb I can send off for restoration and repair. I'm also toying around with sending the intake to Dave at SD to tweek on as part of a potential horsepower injection project. It was surprising to find that the date code on the new intake was L117. That's 3 days after the casting date of the original existing intake on the car.

Here's a couple pictures.

[Judge273]

Thumb is healing nicely. Survivor car getting a revival.

What's those production numbers that are accepted?

Also what's the L78 option? Learning as I go, so be gentle...

[Alvin]

Originally Posted by Judge273

Thumb is healing nicely. Survivor car getting a revival.

What's those production numbers that are accepted?

Also what's the L78 option? Learning as I go, so be gentle...

IIRC the L78 is the base 400 Pontiac, 180 HP...much controversy over if any sold w manual Trans, etc.

[Judge273]

So my confusion is by the chart...

L78 is a 400 Pontiac engine as is the W72. Both are different in HP, and some production number charts don't recognize the L78 as a manual.

Thanks Alvin!

[Alvin]

Hey Bob, did you see this? http://www.78ta.com/store/product.ph...6&cat=6&page=1

[Alvin]

Originally Posted by Alvin

Hey Bob, did you see this? http://www.78ta.com/store/product.ph...6&cat=6&page=1

FYI: Inspite of the cover illustration, advertised as "1967 to 1981 Parts and Illustration Catalog" on a 8GB USB. Ordering one for my own archives.

[Bentwheelbob]

Well it's an early day today. Sometimes life interrupts...The heater core is finished though and that's a good thing. It actually wasn't as bad as I thought. Don't get me wrong, it was plenty bad, but it could have been worse. The interior is not completely buttoned up yet. I am still waiting on Randy Combs to do his bezel magic and until that comes in I'm leaving the console and seat out.

I tried to polish out the rally gauge lens today, but the hazing would not polish out. It's like the plastic tuned milky all the way through. I sanded and polished both the front and back, but it wouldn't come out. Even worse, after spending about two hours polishing the speedo and tach lens it turns out you cannot buy the center gauge lens separately. It only comes in combination with the speedo/tach lens. Oh well...

I was hoping to get the body side molding on the passenger side of the car, but that didn't happen. I have been trying to figure out the best way to make sure the molding is lined up correctly from front to back and think I have that covered. I bought some panel molding at Home Depot - sort of a J-channel and used small rare earth magnets in the channel to hold it to the car. I think it's going to work just fine. On the drivers side, the door detent roller is going to have to be replaced before the molding goes on. That's going to require the door to be removed and I am afraid that the alignment might shift.

Lastly, the rear sway bar and end links have been cleaned up and are in the process of being repainted. Everything on this car is in pretty incredible condition. The end links only needed degreased and scrubbed prior to paint and the sway bar probably could have gone without media blasting, but I blasted it anyway. I've been trying to find front sway bar bushings that will utilizes the original brackets, but I haven't been able to find any yet. If anyone has a source I would be appreciative.

Here's a few pictures.

[2manyT/A'S]

You might want to give some thought to replacing the drivers side door hinge without removing the door.........it's a bit tricky,but not that tough.... patience is the key to doing it...and a 1/2" gearwrench.....way less chance of damaging your original paint...JMO

[Bentwheelbob]

Originally Posted by 2manyT/A'S

You might want to give some thought to replacing the drivers side door hinge without removing the door.........it's a bit tricky,but not that tough.... patience is the key to doing it...and a 1/2" gearwrench.....way less chance of damaging your original paint...JMO

Brian,

Thanks for the suggestion. For that matter, couldn't I just remove the offending hinge, quickly press in the new pin and roller and then reinstall it? It might mean holding the door in place with one hinge for 5 or 10 minutes, but having the original hinge would likely better insure correct alignment it seems.

I look forward to your thoughts.

Bob

[2manyT/A'S]

Once you have the hinge off in your hand....you can decide if it IS repairable....and if you want to...

While it is in your vise,you might as well replace the pins and bushings if thery show any wear,at all.

Put a couple of 2x4's wrapped in a towel on top of your floor jack,and support the door with the floor jack on the bottom wide flat area (inboard of the outer skin)

Before you open the door,you might want to put a couple of layers of 2"
quality masking tape on the front edge......just to be safe.

It's a little tricky getting at the front hinge bolt on the cowl......and even trickier getting it back in again....

What I've done in the past is slot that front hinge hole horizontally....right to the front edge.........then you can start the front bolt ant spin it MOST of the way in,before installng the hinge.

Hope that all made sense.............Have fun.