[HWYSTR455]

Yeah, sorry, busy as all at the moment, lots going on. Anyway, so Saturday I got the ignition all setup and installed, dizzy, plug wires, looms, and was going to do the O2 sensor which I ordered from Summit on eGay. So opened the box, pulled it out, and the bag it was shipped in was open, and when I pulled it out, there was carbon on the tip, so it appears as if it's used. Bummer. It's a NTK one, the $275 variety, so going to send it back and get a 'new' one. (Didn't want to install a used one, period). Long story short, no startup this weekend.

Basically, all that's left to do for the start up is exhaust clamps, add gas, and verify the ECU config.

But I did get some shots on the plug wires, and the looms installed. Just a recap, running the PRW type valve covers, and the bolts go in thru the top rail of the covers, and are recessed. Makes it difficult to do wire looms, but used some Moroso BBC ones and it looks good, will do the trick.

The 90 degree brackets I had to bend to make work, and used Moroso regular clip on separators along with the bracket-type looms. There's a close up of one of the bent brackets to give you an idea.

Pics:


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[HWYSTR455]

Here's an interesting tid-bit that some may find useful.

I have the large tube Doug's round port headers, and while completing the ignition install, went to install plugs, and found that I couldn't get my usual thin wall deep socket (5/8) on the #8 plug, because a header tube was preventing enough space to tip the socket on there.

I was like 'Eh, no biggie, will grab the plug socket with the wrench fixture on the end' . Nope. That would fit either, and was left having to 'make' a socket that was able to fit.

I used the wrench ended plug socket, cut it @ 3/4" shorter, and since it wasn't a thin wall, had to grind the first 1.5" of the body thinner. That worked, but has anyone ever had this issue before? (PIC)

I had the 1 3/4 tube Doug's on before, didn't have this problem, so guessing it's an issue with just the 1 7/8 ones?


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[AG]

I spoke to you before I bought the Doug's RP headers for my brother's '70, they are 2" primary tubes and we use a wrench for the #8 plug. No need for a special tool. What was the difference in PR length using the Morel lifters compared to the Comp POS lifters?

[HWYSTR455]

I think I may have gotten a set that was on the edge of tolerances. The driver's side is slightly closer towards the trans, and the end is slightly tipped towards the trans as well. I had to dent on tube slightly to clear the engine crossmember too, think I posted that in this thread.

So with e-heads, 69 400 block, it's been slightly decked for @ .006 deck, and the heads have been touched up once.

With a Lunati VooDoo 713 HR cam, the Comp 857s required a 8.8125 pushrod, I rounded down to an 8.800.

The Morel lifters required a 8.5925 pushrod, and I rounded ever so slightly up to an 8.600 pushrod.

My pushrod measurement method is for valvetrain/rocker geometry, which in turn gives you the best pattern on the valve tip. Most people do it backwards, which IMO, is wrong.

This is the method I follow:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o5is9BsH5OU

That one is from Straub Racing, but the method is the accepted method among all top engine builders and experts on the subject. If you went to a legitimate technical training school, this is basically what they teach you.

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[AG]

Have you started the motor yet?

[HWYSTR455]

No, unfortunately, I'm having a TPS Autoset issue with the DBW setup, have posted on the Holley EFI forums, was suggested I call support, they say it can only be 2 things, the throttle body or the harness, but I question if the person I spoke to was correct.

Today I removed the driver inner fenderwell, and checked the entire DBW harness, no signs of damage, thought I may have pinched it during assembly, but that wasn't the case. I did some preliminary checks on the throttle body with an ohm meter, all looked right, but haven't dug deeper yet. Posted again on the Holley forums, and will call support Monday again and push to get better troubleshooting steps.

I was also having an issue with the vette PWM fan controller, wasn't working. Have been in contact with. Andrew70, he went over a bunch of stuff with me (thank you Andrew), and couldn't find the issue.

I was determined, and continued troubleshooting that after going over the DBW stuff. Originally, when I first applied power to the car, the fans came on, and I unplugged the controller. I at one point went back over it, and realized that on the I/O harness plug, I had plugged the PWM feed wire into the connector 'C' position, and it was supposed to be in the 'G' position. (my eyes aren't as good as they used to be!). I corrected that, and plugged the controller back in, but wasn't working.

So today, after going over all the wires again on the PWM and I/O connector, verifying it was correct, and for grins, plugged in a spare PWM controller I had, and boom, it started working. So guess when I had plugged it in originally incorrectly, it fried the controller. I had put it on a +12v output, and it requires a -5v signal feed.

So I got that figured out. The ECU won't fire injectors or ignition if the TPS doesn't check good on power up, so until that's corrected, I'm in a holding pattern on the start up. It's driving me nuts!

Tomorrow I will knock out some other items on my to-do list that need to get done, just so I'm moving forward. Monday I will work with Holley and see if we can get the DBW stuff figured out.

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[HWYSTR455]

Update:

Have been struggling with the TPS Autoset on the Dominator EFI using a DBW throttle body, as well as finding time during the busy holidays to work on it!

Last week, I started drilling down on the DBW harness wiring diagram, which is in the instructions, 558-406 Holley part number. Then I noticed, while skimming the entire doc, that the harness only had 2 TBs listed as 'compatible'. Hm. I remember specifically that there being a handful of supported TBs in the Holley Dominator 'Selector Guide', which I pulled up. Sure enough, there's a big list.

In the selector list, my TB was listed, as I knew it would be, and it's not listed in the harness' instructions. Ok. So I go to look up the TBs that are listed, and, the are both 'discontinued' GM parts, but can be found NOS. Uhg. They were not cheap.

So tried to figure out a work around, and basically, I loaded an LSX TB config file, and was able to get it to work without changing any parts. Cool.

This week I need to finish my ignition map, but will be ready to fire it off this coming weekend. Finally!


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[HWYSTR455]

Apologize for not keeping up with my build thread, I should practice what I preach! Heheh!

Ok, worked thru the DBW issue I was having, I got frustrated with support and the Holley forum and just started chopping away at the software trying different configs, and figured out how to get it to work. Turns out by loading the LSX ICF allowed me to chose the TB I have, which by all Holley docs state is not 'compatible' with the DBW harness I have. I'm an engineer, and understand the LAST thing ANY engineer wants to do is update docs! Heheh!

That was the final item I needed to get past in order to do the initial startup, since without a proper TPS Autoset, the injectors and ignition won't fire, it a safety 'feature'.

So did the initial startup this past weekend, dumped the oil, and other than some kind of typical debris in the filter pleats, looks like I'm good to go. Had 50 psi around 1400 RPM, was able to get it up to operating temp, but was having some idle issues related to my DBW Pedal vs TPS settings. (Similar to idle speed screw setting). Also, looks like my '08 vette PWM fan controller took a dump, 2nd one, and pretty sure I figured out why, corrected the setting, and will try one more time replacing the controller, and after that, I going to a stand alone PWM fan controller.

I will post info on that or if I forget, and someone is interested, reach out to me. Have to give major kudos to Andrew70, he helped with a bunch of my settings, and I'm getting a much better hang of the new Holley software.

Here's a couple pics from startup day, and a couple initial shots of config screens, which I have already modd'ed some, so if you want me to go deeper into that, ask.


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[OCMDGTO]

Serious build there. What intake & carb(or EFI)? Any dyno numbers or power estimate?

[HWYSTR455]

Moving the Super Victor EFI intake over that I originally built for the 461, it's all setup and ready to go, just need to do some minor gasket matching. Holley Dominator ECU.

Previous pic of 461 pic attached with the intake being used.
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[HWYSTR455]

Based on past history, Paul conservatively gestimated @665hp, @550+ ft lbs. As stated, the main holdback is the head flow.

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[OCMDGTO]

Awesome and hope to see it in person at some point

[AG]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

Based on past history, Paul conservatively gestimated @665hp, @550+ ft lbs. As stated, the main holdback is the head flow.

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I bet it makes more power than that. My race motor is 500 ci with a similar size SR and 335 CNC Eddy heads, and a victor/Dom, at 3550 # race weight the car goes 10.00 at 134 mph. I think the 535 will have plenty of power.

[Scott65]

I'd be curious to know, when you get the idle resolved, what load area (kpa cell(s)) it idles at.

[HWYSTR455]

Pretty sure the idle problem was my initial throttle position, it was set to start at 3%, and like an idle speed screw, it was too low to idle. So set it to 9% to start.

Have to thank Andrew70 for that info too, I'm a little new to the software, and DBW settings.

I suspect it will idle around 12-14" of vacuum, based on other's experience with this cam. But I have more idle timing, so will probably get a little more than most.


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[Scott65]

Does the dbw handle the duty of the typical IAC, and vary the airflow? Or do you have IAC also?

[HWYSTR455]

Correct, the throttle plate acts like an IAC, and no actual, physical, separate IAC.


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[Scott65]

Less parts and pieces is good. Cool, thanks for the info.

[AG]

How were the Morel HR lifters?

[HWYSTR455]

Originally Posted by AG

How were the Morel HR lifters?

No ticks, initial startup didn't even tick the first few seconds like so many do, and it ran for 25 min, no ticks.

I will do another startup this weekend, and will post a running vid.

I washed them, soaked them in oil, and wiped the lifter bores with assembly lube.

Worked as desired, as they did in the Olds engine I did with them. I recommend them for sure.

I will do a follow up later on it too, and ensure I'm at a desirable idle RPM, will post that info too.

My car's not loud, have Gorlick mufflers, think the 20" cases, so could hear everything. I'm happy.

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