[i4abuygto]

Here's the schematic I was generally going to follow, in case you haven't seen it elsewhere. Note-it also recommends losing the circuit breaker in favor of a fuse. EDIT- I think I was considering just sending the pink ignition wire directly to the switch and eliminating the factory relay. The switch no longer has the full current draw running through it in this scenario-it's only triggering the the new relays who are then sending the full current to the motors.

I have wired in the 4 relays as you have pictured in the schematic mainly to protect the window switches from big current and to offer more amperage at the window motors to gain better window response. The relays will end up under the console near the switch harness to access the stock window harness and wires there. I want to pull the 12 volts from a Battery circuit on the fuse block that is on all the time and is fused without the ignition on.
Rather than run a new 12 gauge wire from the fuse block I think I will pull the stock relay out and jumper the 12 gauge orange/black to the 12 gauge pink (out to the switch) and change that terminal at the fuse block to the BATT terminal so I can operate the windows without the ignition on.

The attached photo shows my relays temporaily wired in. The wire nuts will be replaced with a soldered connection as you see with the others. The Pink wire (circled in red on the second and third photo) from the stock relay is currently open and is an option to just running a new 12guage wire from the fuse block. The power into the relays and to power the switch is hard to see in the photo and is circled in yellow on the second and third photo. The white wire leaving the photo is to ground for the relays and is grounded on one of the shifter mounting bolts.

I tested all as wired and the windows move up and down nicely without the engine runnning. Window tracks have all been pulled out and relubed.

When I determine the input source I will solder all and complete the install.

[i4abuygto]

Just an FYI - I dont believe my 79 Trans Am here had power windows from the factory. When I purchased it, I removed the manual window cranks and installed some aftermarket bolt in power window regulators. I was kind of surprised to see that the car is wired for power windows. All of the stock wiring is there.

[Hoodshaker]

Good stuff! It looks like you're on the right track. Coincidentally, my '79 was also born with manual windows (I have the build sheet) and had power windows added later with factory parts. I contemplated (and still ultimately may) switching it back. I've got no issues with swinging a crank and kind of enjoy it as an old school throwback in my '71 GT-37, even though that has 4 cranks including the rear quarter windows.

[i4abuygto]

Good stuff! It looks like you're on the right track. Coincidentally, my '79 was also born with manual windows (I have the build sheet) and had power windows added later with factory parts. I contemplated (and still ultimately may) switching it back. I've got no issues with swinging a crank and kind of enjoy it as an old school throwback in my '71 GT-37, even though that has 4 cranks including the rear quarter windows.

You and I should have gotten together earlier and we could have swapped regulators. I have the manual regulators that I removed. I am not sure if a guy should keep them or not?

Without T-tops and AC (yet), I wanted power windows to be able to lower the passenger window from the driver seat.

I have to work on getting the factory AC to work again- I am missing everything forward of the firewall.

[Trevor78]

Check out Thepartguy.com for ideas or parts for ac and brackets.
Agree re being able to easily bump windows down on both sides, not everyone drives with a passenger.
There's also the custom AC option but it's more suited for non-AC cars, and if they are a Camaro! I think original parts and adjusted pressure switche and equipment to suit R132a is still the way to go.

[78w72]

R132a?

[i4abuygto]

After deciding to keep the TA instead of flipping it and with many mods already done to the car - new Black interior is going in.

Also, I am putting in a 10 inch bluetooth radio and had a test run today to make sure all added wiring works.
With the aftermarket B&M Hammer shifter (already installed at purchase of car), I had to wire in the reverse circuit and splice into the Neutral safety circuit to run to the shifter for all electronics to work correctly. When I purchased the car one could start it in any gear - not good. While I was at it I wired in a backup camera with the new 10 inch screen.

For all of the purists out there I know this mod doesn't work for you. The dash was in great shape except for the radio being fit for an aftermarket radio so I just upgraded to what will work for the configuration of the dash.

All works good with the new radio and reverse circuitry.

[kingbuzzo]

It will pay for itself when you pull into shows... 👍

[Grand73Am]

Originally Posted by i4abuygto

After deciding to keep the TA instead of flipping it and with many mods already done to the car - new Black interior is going in.

Also, I am putting in a 10 inch bluetooth radio and had a test run today to make sure all added wiring works.
With the aftermarket B&M Hammer shifter (already installed at purchase of car), I had to wire in the reverse circuit and splice into the Neutral safety circuit to run to the shifter for all electronics to work correctly. When I purchased the car one could start it in any gear - not good. While I was at it I wired in a backup camera with the new 10 inch screen.

For all of the purists out there I know this mod doesn't work for you. The dash was in great shape except for the radio being fit for an aftermarket radio so I just upgraded to what will work for the configuration of the dash.

All works good with the new radio and reverse circuitry.

In case you didn't know, originally there is no electrical neutral/safety switch on a 79. The steering column was changed in 79 to a mechanical lockout of the key, so the key will only turn when the transmission is in park or neutral. In order for that to work, you must have the "back-drive linkage" from the shifter bracket on the transmission to the arm at the bottom end of the column. That way when you shift the transmission, the linkage moves the arm on the column, which rotates the collar at the top of the column to the appropriate position depending on your transmission selection. Since you said when you got the car, it would start in any gear, your back-drive linkage must be gone. Long ago, I bought a 79 that didn't have the linkage, and I tied the arm on the bottom of the column to the up position, which is the park position. That way it would start any time, in any gear. Just had to be careful. Later I found some used back-drive linkage and installed it so it works as it should.
There is a switch that looks very similar to a neutral/safety switch on the 79 column, but it is only for the reverse lights.

[i4abuygto]

I am putting the interior back together after having everything completely out -
I took the dash bezel and applied new clear coat thinking it would clean up the few faded spots (see photos).
Is it worth taking this bezel apart to completely refinish or would you guys use this one as is?
My wife is worried that I will open a can of woop ass if I try to remove the top clear coats with paint remover to refinish as described earlier in this thread.


The interior is going in here is what I have.
Dash painted SEM black
All trim pieces new SEM black paint.
New black carpet
All new after market seat belts
New after market front Black seats with Gen 2 power seat tracks.
Original rear back seats - refinished black SEM
New AC controller bezel
Rebuilt AC heater box with all working fan and controls
Installing correct behind dash ducting.
New bluetooth after market 10 inch touch screen radio. Pictures to follow

[provocating]

Originally Posted by i4abuygto

I am putting the interior back together after having everything completely out -
I took the dash bezel and applied new clear coat thinking it would clean up the few faded spots (see photos).
Is it worth taking this bezel apart to completely refinish or would you guys use this one as is?
My wife is worried that I will open a can of woop ass if I try to remove the top clear coats with paint remover to refinish as described earlier in this thread.


The interior is going in here is what I have.
Dash painted SEM black
All trim pieces new SEM black paint.
New black carpet
All new after market seat belts
New after market front Black seats with Gen 2 power seat tracks.
Original rear back seats - refinished black SEM
New AC controller bezel
Rebuilt AC heater box with all working fan and controls
Installing correct behind dash ducting.
New bluetooth after market 10 inch touch screen radio. Pictures to follow

There are plenty of services that will refinish these for you, or you can buy one already done.