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  #141  
Old 01-21-2008, 10:55 PM
AGTORG AGTORG is offline
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LOVE THE PICS AND PROGRESS CANT WAIT TO SEE MORE

  #142  
Old 01-30-2008, 07:10 PM
mtd677 mtd677 is offline
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Steve,

I found this thread about 3 weeks ago, and it has motivated me to get moving on my own project, Hope to see more from you soon.

Thanks for getting me started.

Mike
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  #143  
Old 02-09-2008, 11:58 PM
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Hello Everyone!!!!My brother insulated the garage and were ready for the cold weather.

Were back in the garage!!!!

mtd677 & AGTORG - Glad you like the posts!!!!

We did some finish fitting on the roof and once we were happy with the fit we started to weld the drivers side sail panel and rear window edge. It is best to weld the sail panel area first then move on to the rear window edge. The drvers side fit extremely well. Wait till we post the passenger side, it needs more massaging, cutting, etc to fit.


Steve & Ed
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  #144  
Old 02-10-2008, 02:06 AM
AGTORG AGTORG is offline
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lookin good! thats funny I just insulated my shop to

  #145  
Old 02-17-2008, 07:58 PM
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We used Lord Fusor panel adhesive to glue the entire area where the roof sits in the drip rail. Using the high speed cut-off wheel we removed any of the previous spot welded in roof ilocated in the gutter, this was time consuming. Then sanded with 80 drit paper by hand. My brother used a 3M wire wheel to sand the area of the roof that sits right in the drip rail. We then used a metal cleaner on both surfaces to make sure each panel was clean of any contaminents.
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  #146  
Old 02-17-2008, 08:07 PM
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The panel adhesive was applied generously in the drip rail with a continuous beed. Any excess is easily wiped cleaned after clamping.
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  #147  
Old 02-17-2008, 08:26 PM
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The Roof is finally on!!!!!

We have it clamped all around with about 4 inch spacing between each clamp.
The roof fit exceptionaly well with only minor work need in the pillars and sail panel.
The drivers side is almost a perfect fit while the passenger side needed a slice in the quarter panel so the rear window chrome will fit flush to this inner edge.
I will be using "USC ALL METAL" filler for the sail panels and front pillars after they are welded - probably this week.
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  #148  
Old 02-20-2008, 09:06 PM
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We started welding from one side and worked one weld at a time to the other side. After the welding was done we used an angle grinder to clean them up and finished them off with both the 3M wheel and small right angle sander with 80 grit paper, 1" diameter.
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  #149  
Old 02-20-2008, 09:13 PM
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More Roof pictures. After we cleaned the welds I brushed on some Picklex and then wiped clean.
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  #150  
Old 02-20-2008, 09:20 PM
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More Roof Pictures.
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  #151  
Old 02-25-2008, 04:16 PM
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We finished dressing all the welds, wiped with picklex and applied some "ALL METAL" to the drivers side sail panel. This was our first time using the All Metal filler and it was easy to apply and shape on the panel. It will take some time before I know how much activator to use for my liking. We had to give it more than an hour on the first application before we could sand it - not enough activator.
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  #152  
Old 03-09-2008, 02:20 AM
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Here's how we welded the roof in the sail panel area.

1) We spot welded the seam by starting at the furthest right edge in the drip rail area and then went over about an inch all the way to the other side of the panel near the rear window. We then skipped around with the spot weld so there would be minimal distortion. I did lose count of how many spot welds were needed.

2) After all the welding was complete we used the right angle grinder with 80 grit paper to sand down the weld high spots. A harsher grit paper may be used also.

3) Then we sanded an area of about 6-7 inches with the 3M wheel in the last photo. We scuffed the spot welds with 36 grit paper so the "ALL METAL" Filler would have a good bite.
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  #153  
Old 03-09-2008, 11:17 AM
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After we scuffed the spot weld line we cleaned a few times the area with Picklex, we had our heat lamp on the panel to keep the area warm before the "All Metal" was applied. The first coat was my first time using it and it shows. After it cured we then block sanded with 36 grit to 80 grit. We applied about 4 thin coats and they went on much better then the first. I then sprayed some Rust Encapsulator on it to cover it until all the body work is done then we'll Prime the whole car.
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  #154  
Old 03-16-2008, 09:03 PM
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Its finally starting to feel were close to the end.

We started to final coat the undercarriage with "Extreme Chassi Black" It looks very good. I put one coat on and then applied some "Fusor 103B Seam Sealer" I applied about 2 feet then used a 1 inch brush whish was cut to about a 1/4 inch to give the factory look. I will reapply more seam sealer in areas I missed the first time then one final top coat. Next where putting in the rear-end, and the Firebird will be on all 4's once again.
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  #155  
Old 03-19-2008, 10:53 AM
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We almost forgot what it was like to turn a wrench - Its been so long.

It was time to put the differential back in, I am re-installing it with Cal-Tracs. The adustable head rest creaper did help in installing the front of the spring. Then I rolled the Ford 9" in place and elevated it on Jack stands supporting the differential yoke too.
After a long day the car was back on the ground.
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Last edited by 67'7F6'Bird; 03-19-2008 at 11:04 AM.
  #156  
Old 03-20-2008, 11:29 PM
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Here is the Firebird on hte ground, only for a short time. We need too remove the transmission and headers and finish painting the front floor area and install the new stall speed and ceramic coated headers.
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  #157  
Old 03-20-2008, 11:33 PM
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We rearranged the garage so we could get the Firebird up off the ground completely. And so we can now do the bodywork on both cars.
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  #158  
Old 04-16-2008, 01:26 PM
67'bird 67'bird is offline
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I'm getting ready to start the right side quarter panel. I am going to start by getting a good air compressor. What kind should I get?

  #159  
Old 04-18-2008, 11:45 PM
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Well after completely cleaning the underside of the floor, looking perfect, I started cleaning the top and found rust on the toe boards and front floor pans. If I hadn't put so much time in prepping the underside I would have changed the whole thing but the remaining top and bottom is rust free - being thankful because I would have had to cut out portions of my roll bar to get a full floor in.

We fabbed the drivers side toe board and floor pan to be butt welded in, no overlapping pieces, I did cut out much more than needed to be changed bu did this so the whole area would be new.

The air chisel was broken out once again with the air saw and grinders. My head is pounding after doing all this today. We do wear noise suppressors too.
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  #160  
Old 04-18-2008, 11:55 PM
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Here is the toe board fitted. I did buy the "Intergrip Panel Clamps". Thought we'd try them on the butt welds. The panels are from Rick's, I opted for the unpainted panels, USA made ones which are noticeably thicker metal. To be welded in the next day or two after we fit both sides and prep the inner areas with the sander and paint now that there accessible.
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