[64speed]

Originally Posted by grivera

Good you’re getting it sorted. How did you determine it was backed off?

It was clacking like hell so I took off the valve cover and it was almost backed all the way off

[grivera]

Damn! If backed off that much will certainly need more than an 1/8 turn…Easily a 1/2 turn.

[64speed]

First showing got me a 10 dollar gift card for a local Mexican Restaurant.

[Gach]

Nice !! And well deserved.

[Bill Hanlon]

Originally Posted by 64speed

First showing got me a 10 dollar gift card for a local Mexican Restaurant.

Maybe 5,000 more showings and you'll break even.

[64speed]

Next step is carpet. Will the jute backing help the heat any or does there need to be something between it and the sound deadener?

[HWYSTR455]

The OE jute stuff is marginal, at best. The dynaliner or stuff like it is the way to go. I do a mix of 1/4" and 1/8" thickness in diff areas, depending on where it is, so the carpet will lay properly.

I may have used some 1/2 too, but honestly would have to go back and look.

I did both the 442 and the GTO with a combo of dynamat and dynaliner, and it is such a dramatic difference, I will always do it from here out.

I stripped the jute off the back of the carpet before installing over the dynaliner so it would lay right.



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[64speed]

It wasn’t even clean lol

[Gach]

Originally Posted by 64speed

It wasn’t even clean lol

So now you’re a burrito man…LOL

[steve25]

At this point this should be moved by a moderator out of this section.
This string is crazy long as it is now!!

[64speed]

Originally Posted by steve25

At this point this should be moved by a moderator out of this section.
This string is crazy long as it is now!!

Plenty of build threads in this section.

[HWYSTR455]

Door panels are cake. Bow headliners, not so much of a cake.

1500 is insanity. For that, you can do it 3 times yourself, by the 3rd, you will have it perfect.



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[tstroud]

I was really worried about doing the bow headliner in my car. I finally just went ahead and did it. It took the whole afternoon to do it and it turned out pretty good with only 1 small wrinkle in the left rear corner. That seems to be shrinking in as time goes on. If it doesn’t go away I will adjust it. I’m glad I didn’t pay someone a small fortune to install it and probably still have the same little wrinkle.

It’s not really that hard. Work from the dome light forward, them work from the dome light back. Put all the screws in place before starting so you can find them later to cut them in.
Get good glue. I used the 3m spray glue and it’s not holding very well. DAP weldwood seems better. I should have used that.


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[HWYSTR455]

Yeah, you start from the fixed position bow, work forward, then from the fixed bow back.

You can use a hair dryer or heat gun after it's in place to help it relax, just be careful if you use a heat gun.

I used the 3M 90 spray glue, it works fine. I tried some of the brush on stuff and it was terrible.

For the spray, I used pieces of cardboard as a back stop when spraying, cardboard from canned 12 pack drinks works well, cut up like 20 pieces and after one or two spray pick up another piece.

I bent the tack strip points out a little, and some hit the points with a file so they grabbed better. That helps a lot.


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[HWYSTR455]

Mark the holes the bows are in with a sharpie before you remove them. It helps, but depending on how the headliner is sewn, you may have to change them anyway.

It's much easier if you do the headliner before you put the glass in, but can still be done with the glass in.



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[HWYSTR455]

Couple in-progress shots as an example.

I trimmed an area too short around the back window and then gave up, just got it up there knowing I would have to do it again. Uhg. Just part of the process.

One pet peeve I have is along the side where the headliner slopes is when people cut the bow pockets too far and make 'circus tent' puckers on the sides. Big no-no in my book, even if many factory jobs look that way.

I try to get it as tight to the roof as possible, give as much headroom as possible.

Next summer I will redo the judge one, I have the 'bird coming back from paint in a couple weeks, that will be my winter project.


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[steve25]

How about one of your front tires is rubbing on or near the roof of the wheel well when turned to enough of a extreme?

This condition can come and go depending on if the front suspension is being compressed as when coming up out of a dip in the road or into a transision in the road suface.

[b-man]

On 1964 & 1965 cars the rear bottom of the wheel opening has a point at the bottom corner of the opening that often rubs on the tire when you’re running wide wheels. This only happens on tight slow turns.

I was running zero offset (4.5” backspace) 17x8s with 235/45-17s on my ‘64 Tempest and had to tap that point in with a hammer to stop the rubbing. It didn’t take much because my tires were only 25.3” tall, anything taller will require more clearance work.

[gtospieg]

You need a rubber boot

[HWYSTR455]

Lower shift boot to be more specific.

So it's lower shift boot > lower shift boot bezel > carpet > upper shift boot > upper shift boot bezel. Or at least that's how many are configured.

Pick one: https://www.google.com/search?sca_es...h=750&dpr=1.25

Hopefully you used some seal sealer or other to seal the shifter hump (porch) to the floor pan.

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