[64speed]

My nephew is an automotive/mechanical engineer for Bosch. He just gave me a complete rundown of front suspension. He is baffled too but the picture isn’t photoshopped and it doesn’t scrub in my driveway. I didn’t have time to sling it around any turns today but I drove to the store and it seems ok. I did exactly what the Hotchkiss video online said and that’s where we are. I am gonna have the local shop check behind me but as of now it seems to work. The Global West style lower arms I have do not have standard end links. It has the Heim joint style. I don’t know if it matters but they have the taller ball joints.

[64speed]

I have also found that I don’t have one big leak but instead a few small ones. Gonna try to tackle them a little at a time. One of them is the washer around the drain plug for sure. The other is pan rail studs. Either they aren’t tight enough or the compression has pushed the gasket out. The drip/drips are minimal unless I drive the hell out of it at which time they get fairly substantial for a bit

[bluebandit]

Did you attach the bar to the frame with the suspension dropped down or was it setting on the tires? Would it be possible for the bushings to grip the bar enough to add a little height similar to tightening control arm bushings with the suspension suspended?

[HWYSTR455]

Most gasket areas need to be tightened some after a few initial heat cycles.


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[geeteeohguy]

Originally Posted by bluebandit

Did you attach the bar to the frame with the suspension dropped down or was it setting on the tires? Would it be possible for the bushings to grip the bar enough to add a little height similar to tightening control arm bushings with the suspension suspended?

Great way to destroy the bushings quickly. They should only be snugged when the car is sitting on the tires. Otherwise, they are torsionally loaded beyond their design limits and will split. Bushings are NOT torsion bars.

[1968GTO421]

Originally Posted by geeteeohguy

[/B]

Great way to destroy the bushings quickly. They should only be snugged when the car is sitting on the tires. Otherwise, they are torsionally loaded beyond their design limits and will split. Bushings are NOT torsion bars.

Excellent advice. I learned the hard way in the 1960's to not tighten things up until sitting on the tires. Been doing it geeteeohguy's way since then after a neighborhood mechanic told me the correct way. Back then it was a cheap lesson costing only four new bushings at 1965 prices.

[HWYSTR455]

Not sure that's correct, when I install the front bar, I can grab an end of the bar and it moves freely when the end links are not connected. Pretty certain it should move freely. It only loads when the wheels move at different heights.

Most of the poly bushings even come with lube.

Now if you don't have the correct size bushing, it will prevent the bar from moving if you crank it down.

I know sometimes people get mixed up and buy the wrong bushings, because there's a number of different diameter bars. I think some of the H-O bars were like 1 3/8, might even have been one that was 1 1/16, but don't recall exactly. But I know not all companies make the 'odd' size bushings.


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[1968GTO421]

I always find Sirrotica's posts very useful. Back in 1964 I had an old car with a factory manual choke. My dad taught me how to properly use it. I've had many an old car with dysfunctional automatic chokes but rather than repair them, I converted them to manual. Back then there were many kits available to do so. When I've bought Holley's, I've always bought the manual choke ones as I am familiar with them and find them to be trouble free. I hope Sirrotica's post helps out the OP well.

[NeighborsComplaint]

Modern Holley and Quickfuel carbs equipped with electric chokes have the choke pull-off vacuum assist through an internal passage between the choke housing and carburetor baseplate. There are no provisions for external choke pull-off vacuum provided or needed.

You can check by rotating the black choke to various positions of leaner/richer which only affect the amount the chokeplate opens upon initial cold start and the duration of choke operation while on the fast idle cam as controlled by the choke which is nothing more than a timer once running.

Adjustment is simple. Loosen the 3 spring plate retaining screws and rotate the choke cap the amount necessary to allow the car to run during warmup un-aided by throttle input. If needed you can adjust the fast (cold) idle speed screw (1/4" hex screw that contacts the cold idle cam) to the required idle speed for consistent cold idling during warm up. The choke will release the cold idle once the choke times out.

It's a little bit of a balancing act setting the timer to provide sufficient partial choke (warmup) operation. Too little and you get a lean/cold condition that requires blips of the throttle (accelerator pump richening) to continue running. Too much and you get flooding and sooty exhaust requiring partial throttle (more air from the primaries) to continue running.

My Quickfuel Slayer (adjusted as above) started at the turn of the key following one pump of the gas pedal to set the choke and functioned like a normal choke during warmup allowing me to drive immediately after starting without hesitation or other drama.

[Gach]

It can be touchy then again it can be easy it all depends on how lucky you’re or how much you want to play with it.

[gtospieg]

Did you use Dynamat or Lizardskin or some other kind of noise suppression when you built the car? How are your door seals? Even if they are new doesn't necessarily mean that they are actually sealing. Try the dollar bill test. Use a bill between the seals on the door when closed. If it slides very easily then the seals
are not tight enough.

[64speed]

I realized I skipped my swaybar dilemma. I got it on, setup, and adjusted per Hotchkiss instructions and I have no rubs or strange behavior so I think I’m ok on that front. Now on to the choke LOL

[64speed]

Here is a pic of the car with the swaybar back on. Swaybars do affect static ride height somewhat because I am not scrubbing or popping or anything anymore and you can see more of my tire now.

[HWYSTR455]

That pic is the same one you posted of it being lower in post #1881. If it's not 'scrubbing or popping', then don't worry about it.

Sway bars only tie both sides together, making the suspension travel in unison. It is 'torsional', so it does allow for slight independent movement.

So if it doesn't 'scrub' or 'pop', it could be that there's enough load spread across both wheels and one or the other wheel isn't compressing as much.

Still not sure how it could make a 'pop' though.

The only way it could effect ride that I can think of is if one spring is higher or lower than the other. Or, if you pre-load one side or the other, which is done with either an adjustable bar or end links of different lengths.

If one spring is not in the pocket properly on either end, it could make your suspension uneven. Or, different rate springs. A sway bar would kind of make both sides the same height.

Measure your end links and see if they are the same length on both sides.

If you are not getting the answers you were hoping, why not call Hotchkis?

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[Va68goat]

I used Kilmat and the pad and it's fine.

[64speed]

Good catch, I meant to post the one of it on the level part of the driveway. It is raised up about a 1/4 of an inch from where it was from no swaybar. It doesnt look like its gonna scrub the pavement anymore and I can get the jack under it now without finagling. My worst scrub was pulling out of the driveway where there is a lip before it reaches the asphalt of the road. It was HORRIBLE. It stopped that completely and any scrub that I have now is so minor and at such extreme turning angle that its a moot point until I get smaller tires if that is even necessary. I am gonna send the spacers back if I dont develop any problems in a week or so.

[HWYSTR455]

Here's the pics, fixed.

Not sure 1/4" would make that big of a difference, but ok.

And I was thinking it was 'scrubbing' on the body or something. Scrubbing on a dip or rise in/out of a parking lot or driveway is nature of the beast when you lower a car. You get one more person in there and that 1/4" will go away.



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[HWYSTR455]

This is the Hotchkis install doc:

https://hotchkis-files.sfo2.cdn.digi...ions/2202F.pdf

I don't see any 'adjustments' that can be made, except for the amount the end links are tightened?

"12. Tighten end link nut to the point where the end link bushing’s diameter is
just larger than it’s support washer."


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[64speed]

I called Hotchkiss and they referred me to online videos. I adjusted it exactly like the videos said and it seems to be a lot better than it was even when I had it on before which in all honesty probably wasnt right. I am still learning on this car and everything is a baby step. It handles noticeably better which I am sure is no surprise, the front end doesnt rise so bad you cant control it when you punch it from 2nd gear and its just all around better. I am pretty stoked about this minor victory. Now on to sealing up the leaks.

[64speed]

That’s what I meant. Adjusting the end links. I’m sure I had them in a bind before. I had them tightened way past the recommendation under the impression that more is better