I've got a '66 LeMans Convert - the prior owner installed a TH400 trans. But - the car does not have a correct transmission crossmember. Convertibles have boxed frames and a "shelf," for lack of a better term - on the inside of the boxed frame that accepts the insulators for the trans crossmember.

On my car - someone essentially modified a crossmember for a hardtop - and bolted it to the bottom of the frame.

My questions -

Besides keeping the vertical and horizontal alignment of the transmission correct, is there anything else the crossmember does? (Does it perform any structual function or receive any torque or thrust when you accelerate)?

Is there anything wrong with my setup - using the HT crossmember bolted to the frame - with no insulators?

Thanks.
-Dan

I've got a '66 LeMans Convert - the prior owner installed a TH400 trans. But - the car does not have a correct transmission crossmember. Convertibles have boxed frames and a "shelf," for lack of a better term - on the inside of the boxed frame that accepts the insulators for the trans crossmember.

On my car - someone essentially modified a crossmember for a hardtop - and bolted it to the bottom of the frame.

My questions -

Besides keeping the vertical and horizontal alignment of the transmission correct, is there anything else the crossmember does? (Does it perform any structual function or receive any torque or thrust when you accelerate)?

Is there anything wrong with my setup - using the HT crossmember bolted to the frame - with no insulators?

Thanks.
-Dan

[kwinters2]

Dan-
Gonna venture a guess here but that setup is probably not a good idea.
1. The member being bolted to the bottom of the frame doesnt give you the added safety of the "slelf" should you shear a bolt. Now granted the odds of doing this to four bolts is nill but...........
2. Also, the mounts are made to give, ie the insulators and the transmount are rubber or poly. This would indicate that some vibration, play, thrust, or torque is transmitted to the member.

I would say in this case and ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. You drop your transmission or drive shaft, you are gonna be in a world of hurt. Your setup is probably just fine but, if it were me I would take the added step of doing it correctly.

Someone else may have another view as I am not a drive train man. This is just my opinion.

Also I dont see why you couldnt take the current setup and grind down the ends of the member or have it built up to fit in the correct position. My x member was pretty rusted and gone on the ends, had a welding shop fix me right up, cost $50 versus $155 for a new one.